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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used this stuff yet? I hear its the best rust stopper on the market. Any comments or tips on using it. I am about to buy some to seal some areas. Thanks:)
 

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Banned
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I have done the entire underbody of my Impala, rear end, frame, everything. The prep work is the key, if you do not follow their directions and use what they recommend to a "T" it will not stick permanently. Mine is peeling in some places.

Also it sticks to skin like crazy, make sure you wear gloves and long sleeves. It won't come off for at least 3 days no matter how hard you try to get it off.
 

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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
4DRSS said:
I have done the entire underbody of my Impala, rear end, frame, everything. The prep work is the key, if you do not follow their directions and use what they recommend to a "T" it will not stick permanently. Mine is peeling in some places.

Also it sticks to skin like crazy, make sure you wear gloves and long sleeves. It won't come off for at least 3 days no matter how hard you try to get it off.

Thanks for the tips. I read on their web site and they said as long as it is a oil free surface and no loose scales that this would go on no problem. I take it that this wasn't the case?
 

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BBRANJEN said:
Thanks for the tips. I read on their web site and they said as long as it is a oil free surface and no loose scales that this would go on no problem. I take it that this wasn't the case?
No. I spent two months under my car prepping it. I scrubbed everything down with simple green and a wire brush. I cleaned the frame so good that it was down to metal. It is peeling off parts of the frame where I know I cleaned it perfectly.

If I had the time and the money I would powdercoat everything instead of POR.
 

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4DRSS said:
No. I spent two months under my car prepping it. I scrubbed everything down with simple green and a wire brush. I cleaned the frame so good that it was down to metal. It is peeling off parts of the frame where I know I cleaned it perfectly.

If I had the time and the money I would powdercoat everything instead of POR.
That's probably your problem. POR15 requires RUST to bond to. You need to clean it down to bare metal, then let it flash rust, then paint with Por15.
 

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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
chambers said:
That's probably your problem. POR15 requires RUST to bond to. You need to clean it down to bare metal, then let it flash rust, then paint with Por15.
I did read where it said to leave the surfaces rough. The called it tooth like surface or something like that. I have a buttload of tranny fluid under my car. I got the tranny fixed, how the hell to you get the oil off with out a lift? keep in mind this is probably the only reason I didn't have rust on the floor pans. But I would like to at least prime the under side of the car.
 

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BBRANJEN said:
I did read where it said to leave the surfaces rough. The called it tooth like surface or something like that. I have a buttload of tranny fluid under my car. I got the tranny fixed, how the hell to you get the oil off with out a lift? keep in mind this is probably the only reason I didn't have rust on the floor pans. But I would like to at least prime the under side of the car.
I'd jack the car up on jack stands, or the like, at a car wash.

Next, get a garden sprayer with a good solution of Simple Green in it, and hose the bottom of the car down.

Let it soak for a while, then power wash it off.

Repeat as needed.
 

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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
chambers said:
I'd jack the car up on jack stands, or the like, at a car wash.

Next, get a garden sprayer with a good solution of Simple Green in it, and hose the bottom of the car down.

Let it soak for a while, then power wash it off.

Repeat as needed.
Simple green seems to be the product of choice for getting oil off. I will give it a try. I have jack stands and a power washer, just hard to manuever the wand under the car. Time to max out the jack stands again. LOL!
 

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BBRANJEN said:
Simple green seems to be the product of choice for getting oil off. I will give it a try. I have jack stands and a power washer, just hard to manuever the wand under the car. Time to max out the jack stands again. LOL!
LOL. That's how my Chevelle has been for the past 4 years or so. :)

I have seen and used an attachment for an air compressor that is a siphoning type device. The air pressure sucks fluid from a bucket, and the escaping air carries with it the fluid. So you, set up a large bucket of simple green, and just carry an airhose with a small attachment on the end of it under the car. Use the power washer to rinse.
 

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ebay pimp
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I used POR-15 on all the rust areas of my Fairmont, and it's awesome! But I don't think it's meant to be a finish coat for a whole floorpan(unless it's solid rust). I used it on rusty areas only, then shot the whole floorpan with Rustoleum. But you must degrease it ( I used Castol SuperClean) and then use thier "metal prep".

I used the POR-15 silver around the hood hinge area(which had no perforations, but was rusted THIN). After that had dried I coated with POR-15 black & layed down thier reinforcing cloth(like a VERY fine fiberglass cloth). Coated it agian with POR-15 black 24 hours later, and the hinge area is now stronger & more solid than the surrounding rust free metal. I also used the reinforcing cloth to repair some rust perforations(about 1" square) in the quarterpanel.

Scott
 

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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
chambers said:
LOL. That's how my Chevelle has been for the past 4 years or so. :)

I have seen and used an attachment for an air compressor that is a siphoning type device. The air pressure sucks fluid from a bucket, and the escaping air carries with it the fluid. So you, set up a large bucket of simple green, and just carry an airhose with a small attachment on the end of it under the car. Use the power washer to rinse.

I have one of the siphoning devices also......Harbor Freight is my friend.;)
 

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Highly Compressed
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BBRANJEN, my brother has been using POR-15 since we were both teenagers. He stripped and coated the hood of his 74 T/A with it and also used it in the window channel along the bottom and sides of the rear window. He always had rust popping up in these areas. He lived in Indiana with it like this but eventually it started to rust (the whole car not just these areas). I at one time used the clear POR-15 on my 71 RoadRunner, it lasted quite a while. However, based on my brother's membership in the cult of POR-15, and having seen it in use for over 12 years, the silver is the best paint to use. Actually POR-15 works on the theory that because of the Zinc in the paint, you will have preferential oxidation (anodic) of the Zinc rather than rusting of the steel. This is a fact based on sound scientific theory. That's why a lot of bolts are Zinc or Cadmium plated. We even use a similar approach (no it can't be done in your garage) in the aerospace industry. The silver looks nasty but you can topcoat it with any color you want. Also realize that this paint is a bitch to sand, it sets up really hard. Best luck.....:D
 

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Horsepower Extractor
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Simple green seems to be the product of choice for getting oil off.
I have used several of degreasing products... here is my experience... the best is some stuff made by Automagic.

http://www.automagic.com/

It is their red engine degreaser and this stuff is badass!! Lots of body shops use their stuff. Only problem is that they work kind of like SnapOn... a truck goes by and sells the stuff. I bet you could call them and get a salesmans # and meet him though.

The next best stuff would be the Castrol degreaser available at Oreillys in a purple bottle. That stuff beats Simple Green in my opinion. I have used almost all of these products.
 

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66Deuce said:
I have used several of degreasing products... here is my experience... the best is some stuff made by Automagic.

http://www.automagic.com/

It is their red engine degreaser and this stuff is badass!! Lots of body shops use their stuff. Only problem is that they work kind of like SnapOn... a truck goes by and sells the stuff. I bet you could call them and get a salesmans # and meet him though.

The next best stuff would be the Castrol degreaser available at Oreillys in a purple bottle. That stuff beats Simple Green in my opinion. I have used almost all of these products.

True, but I also use Simple Green around the house for cleaning windows, oven stuff, just about anything. Heck, I even use it as windshield wiper fluid. It's generally cheaper than the Castrol stuff, and you can get it in large quantities at Sams etc..
 

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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
66Deuce said:
I have used several of degreasing products... here is my experience... the best is some stuff made by Automagic.

http://www.automagic.com/

It is their red engine degreaser and this stuff is badass!! Lots of body shops use their stuff. Only problem is that they work kind of like SnapOn... a truck goes by and sells the stuff. I bet you could call them and get a salesmans # and meet him though.

The next best stuff would be the Castrol degreaser available at Oreillys in a purple bottle. That stuff beats Simple Green in my opinion. I have used almost all of these products.
I forgot about one good grease remover. Its hard to beat. Easy off oven cleaner. This shit is like acid. Burns like hell on you skin.
 

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Darkside
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hicompression said:
BBRANJEN, my brother has been using POR-15 since we were both teenagers. He stripped and coated the hood of his 74 T/A with it and also used it in the window channel along the bottom and sides of the rear window. He always had rust popping up in these areas. He lived in Indiana with it like this but eventually it started to rust (the whole car not just these areas). I at one time used the clear POR-15 on my 71 RoadRunner, it lasted quite a while. However, based on my brother's membership in the cult of POR-15, and having seen it in use for over 12 years, the silver is the best paint to use. Actually POR-15 works on the theory that because of the Zinc in the paint, you will have preferential oxidation (anodic) of the Zinc rather than rusting of the steel. This is a fact based on sound scientific theory. That's why a lot of bolts are Zinc or Cadmium plated. We even use a similar approach (no it can't be done in your garage) in the aerospace industry. The silver looks nasty but you can topcoat it with any color you want. Also realize that this paint is a bitch to sand, it sets up really hard. Best luck.....:D

I appreciate the heads up. So did you like it overall?
 

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Highly Compressed
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2,386 Posts
Overall, this paint/rust preventer does a better job at preventing rust than any other primer/paint I know of. You have to scuff it really good to get a topcoat to stick. Overall, after spending several years in Indiana (near Chicago....salt, sand and slag) the areas that were treated on my brother's T/A did far better than those that were not protected by POR-15. However...this is Texas...you could probably get away with using any cheap primer as POR-15 is rather expensive. Just my opinion......;)
 
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