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8,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to put a wish/saving list together for the new year and thought I'd ask you guys for some opinions. Parts needed are (but not limited to).

- Exhaust; header to tip (so far my choice is an FLP LT + Lane 3" TrueDual + over axel piping + wide oval tips [B&B if possible])

-valve train, cam

-heads, components, misc. related parts


-fuel management, fuel pump, injectors, air/fuel tuning

-drivetrain, transmission, drive-shaft, rear end

-suspension (springs and all other necessary parts for a slightly lowered stance w/ correct geometry)

I'm probobly leaving out some things but thats about all that comes to mind. This is a new platform for me so forgive my ignorence ;)

8,816 Posts
I'd get Hooker LT's, much cheaper. Duals are bad ass.

Get heads and cam from somebody. MTI, GTP, Thunder, ARE, whatever.

ls6 intake.

12 bolt or 9".

converter for a auto.

25,199 Posts
Sell it and put a down payment on a '03 cobra or z06.

4,262 Posts
Ok buddy, Here goes:)

1. Go with Hooker Jet hot coated longtubes are $500. Go with 2.5" duals from Lane, and he can make tail pipes over the axle and then you can weld your B&B tips on there. It will look and sound bad ass. Contact him for pricing.

2. As far as the cam goes, I would go with a MTI X1 on a 110 LSA. It makes great power with the stock heads and even more with heads like the GTP Stage 2's. Looking at total for cam and heads and all gaskets and bolts roughtly $3000 with install.

3. Intake go with the LS6 intake, it is an awesome piece and flows extremely well. You will pick up at least 15rwhp from this swap on a cammed car and even more with heads and boltons. $300 used.

4. Fuel Management, get a Walbro intank 255lph, goto 36lb injectors when you do heads just to make sure you get new injectors on thier, cause lord knows your current ones have seen better days and it ensures that you are not fuel deprived when you do heads and getting it tuned, get a 160* T-stat and flush out your whole coolant system and start fresh, replace your fuel filter which is probably shot by now. Chris Marsh at AMS is one of the best in the area at tuning these cars and he is getting my buisness.

5. Drive train is touchy and subjective and varies from need to need. I would personally upgrade your gears from those 2.73's that are in there now to 3.42's, get a B&M 24K GVW tranny cooler $50 and B&M deep pan which holds 3 more quarts of tranny fluid $50 and a Yank SY3500 Converter with a 1.86 STR, that way you get an awesome freeway/street converter that will perform very nice without blowing your tires off at a light. You will be surprised how much of a diffrence the Yank converters make. Your driveshaft is cast iron type, in 2000 is when they went to aluminum driveshafts. Personally i wouldnt mess with it, its not a worthwhile mod unless you got the cash for it, the converter is $500. I would upgrade your rear end to a 12 bolt with 3.42's if you are going to heads as well, the 7.5" wont hold up to well to repeated abuse with over 450 rwhp!

6. Donot lower the vehicle, it disrupts the wieght transfer and when you go with longtubes and H pipe youll bottom out if you hit a bump at faster speeds. I would replace your stock shocks which are probably 70% gone by now with Tokiko High-Performance Series Shock $49.00 each for the rear and $114 for the front each. Go with BMR Subframe connectors, they make a great diffrence in chassis flex and prolong the unibody from falling apart over time and makes cornering alot flatter.

7. ASP underdrive crank pulley $200. This guy has knocked of .2 tenths of John Campbells Z28 alone. He dynoed and it didnt show anything on the graph, he tested it on the track and it knocked of a whopping .2 tenths. It is very well worth it, as it allows the engine to rev alot easier.

8. Shaners S2 ported TB $130 plus your stock one. Gives much better airflow especially with heads and cam.

Good luck and you will have a beast that will run some great times.

I hope this helps,

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