[Blue90LXSupercharged]

what did the granite tile run you? I know it is much cheaper than slab..just trying to figure the cost savings

Check out FloorDecor. They have great prices and colors on granite tiles. They also have a new product. Large granite 2'x3' slabs for kitchen counters. cant remember the price, but was very affordable. Makes for fewer seams!

 

[coors2003]

i found my granite and travertine on craigs list at a place that was closing out, paid $3.00 per tile and $3.00 per 12x12 1"travertine. i sprayed my cabintes i didnt want brush strokes, and i put small finish nails at the lower corner of each doo to keep them open enough to not touch. after they were dry i got the little felt pads to keep them off the paint.

i did not lay my tile over the existing counters, i put down backer board. none of my cabinets or droors stick at all. i screwed the backer right over the counters

 

[Chritaka]

Everything looks good man. Did you have to do some heavy sanding on the cabinets before applying the oil base killz or did you paint right on top without sanding? My cabinets look exactly like yours and we're not sure how we want to update them yet... We also want to paint the wainscotted wood paneling in the living room too, but unsure of the best method to do that...

 

[Chili]

i did not lay my tile over the existing counters, i put down backer board. none of my cabinets or droors stick at all. i screwed the backer right over the counters

So you laid the backer board over the formica? What about the sink, just pulled it out, laid everything down and remounted it?

Thanks for the info, we are working on our kitchen right now too and I was trying to figure out the easiest / cheapest way to address the countertops.

 

[bullet]

We are in the middle of painting our cabinets as well. We're trying to decide whether we should do oil based/latex based paints. The reasons I'm worried about oil based is the yellowing over time and the odor. I've talked to a couple of paint places (Home Depot then Sherwin Williams) and both told me if I get a GOOD latex based paint, it will work just as good as oil based, but without the negatives I posted above.

Our main issue is that we don't want them to 'stick' when opening/closing the doors. So since you have just done this, I would love your opinion on it. Also, did you spray yours or use a brush?

I'd also love any information you could share about laying the travertine on the countertops-we want to redo the counter/backsplash and it would be so much easier if we could just put it on top of the existing formica junk.

Thanks and it looks AWESOME!!! Huge difference!

What is on the cabinets now ? If they are stained, you will need to sand them with 220, degloss them, and then prime before putting latex or oil. If they are already painted with oil, you can put oil right over them after sanding and deglossing but if you choose to convert to latex you will have to prime them first.
The oil will gradually yellow over time. If you choose oil, I would use the Satin Impervo made by Benjamin Moore. If you choose latex, I would go with the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic brand. Both of those paints work well both brushed or sprayed.

 

[bullet]

So you laid the backer board over the formica? What about the sink, just pulled it out, laid everything down and remounted it?

Thanks for the info, we are working on our kitchen right now too and I was trying to figure out the easiest / cheapest way to address the countertops.

You can lay it straight over the formica. I used 1/4 inch hardibacker screwed on 8 inch centers when I did my kitchen.

 

[bullet]

then i put crown molding above the cabinets and a lower trim and side trim and painted the cabintes with an oil base killz and then oil base white paint and removed all the old aluminum brick looking backsplash

then went the hardy backer and started installing 12x12 granite and travertine backsplash

this afternoon im gonna put in my black cast iron sink new faucet and do the island, and im gonna do a travertine inlay in the center. then i get to do the flooring and the bathroom, should all be done in the next few weeks, more pics to come

Looking Good.

 

[coors2003]

im not an expert on the cabinet thing, but i scuffed the cabintets then degreased them, with lacker ( sp) thinner, and i caulked the inlayed centers and used wood filler on any cracks or knicks. also my cabinets had a decrotive lower beveled edge, so i added a section of trim at the bottom.
i also added crown molding to the top edge to dive it a bit of a custom look. i still have to trim out the sides of the stove, dishwasher and the microwave to make it look right.

as for my sink, yes i pulled the sink and cut my backer board to fit the hole and then cut the tile. i went with a heavy ass koehler black cast iron sink to match the top of my stove, it was a bit pricey but worth it!

i started to lay tile last night ill get some pics this weekend, of it and my sink, i love that damn thing, my other sink was only 6" deep and the new one is 8" deep so leah if you get a new sink GET THE DEEPER ONE!

 

[ceyko]

Wife is whining for a deep sink and a tall faucet, might as well redo the counter tops while doing that. Good thread.

 

[coors2003]

hahahaha, thats what it did, i put in a deep sink and a tall faucet

 

[Leah]

If you choose oil, I would use the Satin Impervo made by Benjamin Moore. If you choose latex, I would go with the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic brand. Both of those paints work well both brushed or sprayed.

Those are the two that I've consistently seen recommended while researching which paint to use. I think we're going to go with the Sherwin Williams only because I don't want to have to worry about yellowing down the road.

Anyone have a compressor and sprayer they want to lend out?

im not an expert on the cabinet thing, but i scuffed the cabintets then degreased them, with lacker ( sp) thinner, and i caulked the inlayed centers and used wood filler on any cracks or knicks. also my cabinets had a decrotive lower beveled edge, so i added a section of trim at the bottom.
i also added crown molding to the top edge to dive it a bit of a custom look. i still have to trim out the sides of the stove, dishwasher and the microwave to make it look right.

as for my sink, yes i pulled the sink and cut my backer board to fit the hole and then cut the tile. i went with a heavy ass koehler black cast iron sink to match the top of my stove, it was a bit pricey but worth it!

i started to lay tile last night ill get some pics this weekend, of it and my sink, i love that damn thing, my other sink was only 6" deep and the new one is 8" deep so leah if you get a new sink GET THE DEEPER ONE!

Words I live by.

 

[coors2003]

hahahahahahaaaaa, so how does latex work, i would bet it would peel off, after how mant years will it yellow? 5 10 20? if i keep my house that long ill replace mine with custom ones

 

[Leah]

hahahahahahaaaaa, so how does latex work, i would bet it would peel off, after how mant years will it yellow? 5 10 20? if i keep my house that long ill replace mine with custom ones

Actually, the guy said that after oil based dries, it will crack and peel and that latex will hold up longer. :shrug: However, you make a good point, we don't plan on being in the house we're in for longer than 5 more years. I'm sure they would hold up that long. Latex is just regular paint that people usually buy to do the walls and stuff with-I'm assuming (and I've heard) it works just like paint.

 

[thrshr68]

spraying the cabinets are definitley the way to go vs. the brush. Those cabinets look super in white. Whats that going on in the ceiling? is that 4" recessed? SS trim?

 

[coors2003]

the section above the cabinets is new sheetrock where i took the soffet down above them, i scraped the cieling, and i still have to tape and bed and patch a couple holes where the old fixtures were. and then paint it and the walls

 

[bullet]

hahahahahahaaaaa, so how does latex work, i would bet it would peel off, after how mant years will it yellow? 5 10 20? if i keep my house that long ill replace mine with custom ones

Oil will yellow more in darker areas, especially in dark bathrooms or kitchens. Go find a bathroom vanity or kitchen cabinets that were painted with oil and compare the inside of the door to the outside to see the difference.

The majority of houses built today use latex enamel on the trim and cabinets. Very few painters use oil anymore unless they are doing a repaint and don't want to prime the oil paint in order to convert to latex. I painted my entire kitchen with sherwin williams pro classic latex enamel and you can run your fingernail on it and it will not peel off. They key is to prep it properly to make it stick.

 

[Leah]

Oil will yellow more in darker areas, especially in dark bathrooms or kitchens. Go find a bathroom vanity or kitchen cabinets that were painted with oil and compare the inside of the door to the outside to see the difference.

The majority of houses built today use latex enamel on the trim and cabinets. Very few painters use oil anymore unless they are doing a repaint and don't want to prime the oil paint in order to convert to latex. I painted my entire kitchen with sherwin williams pro classic latex enamel and you can run your fingernail on it and it will not peel off. They key is to prep it properly to make it stick.

That's what we're using and so far, I'm impressed with the how little it shows brush strokes and how well it's covering. I'll be sure and post up the pics when we're done.

 

[bullet]

That's what we're using and so far, I'm impressed with the how little it shows brush strokes and how well it's covering. I'll be sure and post up the pics when we're done.

So is it worth $50 a gallon ?


So yall decided to brush instead of spray ? Get a 6 inch foam roller at lowes made by whiz or whizzer and use it to roll the cabinet doors and face frames and then come back and backbrush it in. It will save you a lot of time over straight brushing. The pro classic lays really good no matter how you apply it. another bonus is that it touches up really good for being a sheen paint.

 

[coors2003]

well i dont know about yellowing, and i did prime mine with oil base killz and then oil bse paint, my buddy ( that builds cabinets used it on his 10+ years ago and it in diff areas and no yellowing at all he says, i guess well see

 

[Chili]

So is it worth $50 a gallon ?


So yall decided to brush instead of spray ? Get a 6 inch foam roller at lowes made by whiz or whizzer and use it to roll the cabinet doors and face frames and then come back and backbrush it in. It will save you a lot of time over straight brushing. The pro classic lays really good no matter how you apply it. another bonus is that it touches up really good for being a sheen paint.

It's working out well. Their paint was all 30% off so it was like $35.