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Discussion Starter #1
How many of you have done your gears yourself? I just bought a set, and want to put them in myself. I ran a search real quick, and found that a lot of you seem to go elsewhere to get them installed. My question is.. why?

special tools? are they a bitch?

thanks
 

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needaho
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636 Posts
if they are FMS gears go ahead and install them yourself just make sure that U use all the shims off of the old gears.




o and i want to lick your ass!!!!!!!!!:D
 

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IA2
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22,413 Posts
If you don't install them properly they will be noisy and will wear quickly.

To do it properly you'll need a press to remove/install the pinion bearing, a pinion depth gauge, a dial indicator to measure backlash, a new crush sleeve, a pinion seal, some marking compound to check the mesh pattern, and perhaps an assortment of pinion and carrier shims to make adjustments.

Some people just bolt FMS gears in and they seem to work with the original shims a lot of the time. I personally wouldn't do this but people do it and get away with it.

With experience you can setup gears pretty much just by looking at the contact pattern in the marking compound.
 

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Sir Clavin
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3,106 Posts
Yea, what he said. The pinion depth tool is not exactly necessary to get the job done, although it does help. If you can get a good Ford Service manual for your car, it should have good instructions on how to do the install, just disregard the part about pinion depth.

One thing I recommend is that you first buy a new inner pinion bearing. Have the old one pressed off of the pinion and then use a die grinder to slightly grind out the middle of the bearing. Use this bearing to get the pinion depth right. Install pinion, bearing, and the original shim. It is not necesary to install the nut or tighten it. Install the case(diff. carrier and ring gear) but it is not necessary to torque the caps down. Exam the tooth contact while applying pressure to the case with a prybar or something on both sides of the ring gear(coast/drive) and it should be just about right in the middle or a little towards the inside(toe) of the ring gear. If it is not right, you can just play with the shims on the pinion to get it how you want it. The pinion should not cut too deep into the ring either, just about middle on this also. Once you get you tooth contact correct, then just check backlash and runout. blahbllah. you should have a quiet, satisfying Hypoid gearset.

Another thing, you will need some type of tool to hold the pinion flange while you tighten the nut, which will require 140+ ft/lbs of torque and then a dial type or beam inch pound torque wrench that reads low amounts to measure bearing preload(8-15in/lbs.) backlash is in the same window at .008"-.015". Runout should be extremely close to zero unless you failed to torque the ring gear to the case properly. Bearing caps torque to 76-85ft/lbs. If you cant already tell, ive done a few of these before.
 

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I have done 2 sets of FMS gears myself and neither wine at all. I used original everything when doing both of them, even the crush sleeve. I Have friends that have done it the exact same way i did and their gears wine like hell. It's pretty much a fifty-fifty whether they will come out right or not. As long as you have all the right tools they should come out alright though.
 

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I've done a couple dozen changes between my own stuff and changes done for other people. The change isn't hard--but you really do need to have the right tools. Most people either don't have the right tools or don't have the knowledge to do it. Changing gears can take a while to do--so a lot of people don't have the patience.
 
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