[Boost Addict]

First, I've talked with a bunch of you guys at various events. I've got the Black GT with the T-trim on a 347 and a C-4. You were all very helpful to me...but now I need some more help with the blower belt issue.

Specifically, I'm tires of chunking belts. I only have the standard passenger mount for the T-trim...no braces or reinforcements at all. I need to somehow keep this thing from torqueing forward. My idea is to use a turn-buckle brace going from the blower bracket to the lower-forward frame rail so I can put some pre-load on the bracket. But I don't know about this...mostly because I kinda don't like the idea of bracing the blower to anything other than the motor (i.e. the strut tower or frame rail) even though the motor is on solid mounts.

Can you guys give some input, ideas or pictures.

Thanks,

Tony

 

[Andrew]

This is what I have: It helped out a lot! It ties the blower to the head via the header bolts.

http://www.hpmotorsport.com/vortech.htm

I have the adjustable one... part number HPM-6202-AZ.

The installation manual ( http://www.hpmotorsport.com/manuals/Inst6200,02,10.doc )claims that you need the adjustable one for a cog driven system.... you can put preload on the blower belt to help prevent belt throwing.

 

[Boost Addict]

Andrew, that's exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks.

Did it help you out any? Just curious.

BTW, I'm putting an Igloo on the car to see if I can get the IAT down from 240 deg. Maybe it will help, maybe not. But it's worth a try.

 

[Andrew]

Andrew, that's exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks.

Did it help you out any? Just curious.

BTW, I'm putting an Igloo on the car to see if I can get the IAT down from 240 deg. Maybe it will help, maybe not. But it's worth a try.

The brace helped out a lot... when adjusting the brace, I left the nuts near the blower loose and revved the motor up at the throttle body... I could see the blower belt move away from the crank and start to walk off the end of the crank pulley. By adjusting the preload I eliminated this.

I should be getting to the dyno tomorrow with mine (making a last ditch effort to get the water lines/fittings so I can have a functional igloo)... I'll let you know what sort of ACT decrease I see. I won't even have the fuel cell or water pump mounted... just sitting in the car! lol

 

[AL P]

That brace will help. Try to maximize the number of teeth you have on your blower pulley by increasing the crank pulley size. Generally anytime you have less than 30 teeth on the blower pulley you are going to have decreased belt life. If you go to something like a 77 or 80 tooth crank pulley and a 31 tooth blowerpulley you can have belts that least forever.

 

[Boost Addict]

Al,

I think you're on to something there. I've got a 75/25 combo on the blower now and I'm throwing a belt about every 4th run. New pullies here I come (I wanted more than 14psi anyway!).

Andrew, there's nothing wrong with not having the fuel cell or pump mounted for the dyno. After all, you're just testing right? LOL If you want to do something on the street or strip like that you could just have Al P ride shotgun and hold all of it. LOL

I've thought about splitting the rear seat (I still have full interior and back seat) in the middle and making a custom mount for the tank OR I've got a trick little idea about using one of the old Coca-Cola syrup canisters up under the dash with a cylindrical pump and nitrous-bottle-style clamps to hold it all up under there. You've seen my car...I like hidden stuff. Of course the 4" hood with a huge igloo visible from the cowl won't be too hidden but oh well...

 

[AL P]

The 25 tooth blower pulley is your biggest problem.

 

[Andrew]

Of course the 4" hood with a huge igloo visible from the cowl won't be too hidden but oh well...