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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Cold bluing?

So I have some bottles of stuff given to me for cold bluing and been playing with it on some scrape bare steel with a q-tip. Its like the first second it hits the metal it turns blue, but will turn greenish gray if you don't wipe it quickly. Anyone else played with cold bluing before? Can you get pro results as with traditional bluing? I have never blued a gun before, but sounds like a lot of trouble.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank View Post
So I have some bottles of stuff given to me for cold bluing and been playing with it on some scrape bare steel with a q-tip. Its like the first second it hits the metal it turns blue, but will turn greenish gray if you don't wipe it quickly. Anyone else played with cold bluing before? Can you get pro results as with traditional bluing? I have never blued a gun before, but sounds like a lot of trouble.
Spot bluing will be difficult, usually its best to sand and strip down the whole part. Use steel wool to prep and between coats. Generally the rougher the finish the darker it will be to an extent. High polish finishes are the most difficult. Also a good quality bluing is essential, brownells is good. When you apply, move real quick and even as to avoid blotches.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010, 01:17 PM
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I just bought a Birchwood Casey kit from Sports Authority for $15, comes with degreaser, rust/blue remover, and cold blue chemicals plus steel wool etc.

I was on a gun site yesterday and they recommended Brownell's Oxpho blue as the best cold blue.

I am just trying to keep the deer rifle going another season. Most of the 'smiths I talk to said don't rely on a cold blue for long term quality protection.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GT98SVO View Post
I just bought a Birchwood Casey kit from Sports Authority for $15, comes with degreaser, rust/blue remover, and cold blue chemicals plus steel wool etc.

I was on a gun site yesterday and they recommended Brownell's Oxpho blue as the best cold blue.

I am just trying to keep the deer rifle going another season. Most of the 'smiths I talk to said don't rely on a cold blue for long term quality protection.
Oxpho is the bluing I was referring to. Sometimes cold bluing is the only option on certain metals. I refinished a shotgun recently that wouldn't take a uniform hot bluing. It's all I'm how you do it.
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