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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Help With a Scope

Greetings,
So I've always used guns with iron sights and never thought much about a scope. (military and other stuff)

A few years ago I bought a Mossburg 30.06 with a scope. All pretty cheap but I thought I was golden.

I noticed at the store that I had to have my eye at just the right distance for a full view through the scope, but being the idiot I am - I thought that was adjustable.

Fast forward to now, this scope has me really pissed off sinice I can't hold the gun in a comfy position and it makes it more difficult to fire straight and with tight groups. (Also, the gun has no iron sites)

I want to spend 50-100 dollars on a new scope. I only hunt with this rifle in the NE, which is heavily wooded. 50-100 yards is what the shot probably will be, but 200 yards at the absolute most.

Some friends indicate that I might as well not even bother for less then 250 dollars. This seems a bit...excessive for basic scope functionality.

1. Am I actually expecting too much for 50-100 dollars?
2. What do you look for in a scope when buying one?
3. Any general tips?

Again, I know nothing about scopes - other then basic magnification levels and such. I wanted to take input from here and apply it to my research. Input is appreciated.

Take care,

My '03 Sold.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
Greetings,
So I've always used guns with iron sights and never thought much about a scope. (military and other stuff)

A few years ago I bought a Mossburg 30.06 with a scope. All pretty cheap but I thought I was golden.

I noticed at the store that I had to have my eye at just the right distance for a full view through the scope, but being the idiot I am - I thought that was adjustable.

Fast forward to now, this scope has me really pissed off sinice I can't hold the gun in a comfy position and it makes it more difficult to fire straight and with tight groups. (Also, the gun has no iron sites)

I want to spend 50-100 dollars on a new scope. I only hunt with this rifle in the NE, which is heavily wooded. 50-100 yards is what the shot probably will be, but 200 yards at the absolute most.

Some friends indicate that I might as well not even bother for less then 250 dollars. This seems a bit...excessive for basic scope functionality.

1. Am I actually expecting too much for 50-100 dollars?
2. What do you look for in a scope when buying one?
3. Any general tips?

Again, I know nothing about scopes - other then basic magnification levels and such. I wanted to take input from here and apply it to my research. Input is appreciated.

Take care,
Well 50-100 dollar for a scope isn't that great. (You'll want one thats clear to look through, that has at least 3x-9 magnification and that can handle the shock of your rifle.)

However if that is your budget, try looking at Bass Pro or Cabela's when they have a optics sale.

For a "Cheap Scope", I'd recommed that you get a BSA Deer Hunter 3x-9 Scope.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te....form23&Go.x=0

In all honesty, you'll be much happier with a more expensive scope, like a Nikon. However I've had a BSA deer hunter scope on my mini-14 for YEARS and it works fantastic for up to 100 yards.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, 50 bucks ain't bad. I suppose I'll understand when comparing them but I had hoped that what you listed would be basics and 50-100 would cover it.

I get what you're saying for sure though. That's why I'm asking, I won't go cheap if it truly makes a difference. My main concern is getting the whole scope view and it being clear.

After googling some examples of a good scope, I at least know my scope is about worthless other then for spotting at the range or something. hah

My '03 Sold.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
Thanks for the info, 50 bucks ain't bad. I suppose I'll understand when comparing them but I had hoped that what you listed would be basics and 50-100 would cover it.

I get what you're saying for sure though. That's why I'm asking, I won't go cheap if it truly makes a difference. My main concern is getting the whole scope view and it being clear.

After googling some examples of a good scope, I at least know my scope is about worthless other then for spotting at the range or something. hah
For 50-100 bucks, you're really not going to get a bunch of bells and whistles on a scope. I just though I would list you a scope that was within your price range that gets decent reviews.

For some reason that BSA scope gets good reviews (thats why I bought it a long time ago).

But if you want a breakdown on what to look for on a scope:

1. Optics, You want it CLEAR.
2. Recticles - If you can get them adjustable for range, get it... Probably not within the price range.
3. Magnification - You want it to be able to variable from 3x-9 or 4x-12
4. Depending on your height of your scope rings, you probably want it to be 40mm front lense... (That will fit most scopes without hitting the barrel). If your rings are a little higher, you'll probably be better off with a 50mm lense.
5. If you are putting a scope on a semi-auto rifle, make sure its VERY DURABLE. The bolt slamming forward usually kills scopes.

After buying cheap scopes for years, I only buy Nikon Scopes now. (They are great bang for the buck and have high quality features on them, although they are generally 300+ dollars)

2006 Mustang GT
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:59 PM
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Also you may have to put a cheek pad on the rifle. One that will allow you to put your face on the rifle comfortably and see down the scope tube. By having the proper cheek weld on the rifle, your groups will be tighter. Also remember practice breathing control and shooting the rifle with the TIP of your finger, not wrapping it around the trigger.

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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This scope is going on a simple bolt action. Your posts are helpful. At a minimum I may buy a BSA to get me through until I can swing a higher end scope, then use the BSA on something else.

Thanks again though. I at least have a starting point now.

My '03 Sold.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dacotua View Post
Also you may have to put a cheek pad on the rifle. One that will allow you to put your face on the rifle comfortably and see down the scope tube. By having the proper cheek weld on the rifle, your groups will be tighter. Also remember practice breathing control and shooting the rifle with the TIP of your finger, not wrapping it around the trigger.
Yup, remember all that stuff for basic. The problem is for me to get the rifle on my shoulder right - my head/eyes are in a place where the scope only provides a small like peephole. I have to pull it in even farther and move my head up for the scope to provide a big enough view for me to see through it.

Plus, what I'm really worried about is when a deer is moving not being able to track it fast enough since I have to be in just the right spot to see through the scope. Do I make any sense?

Take care

My '03 Sold.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 04:33 AM
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I know some people that have been able to drop moving deer but me personaly I have had two bad experiances with trying to do that. I ended up with both of them but didn't place the shot well and they ran for a while and suffered longer than I would have liked.
I won't do it anymore and will just wait for a good clean shot.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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I know some people that have been able to drop moving deer but me personaly I have had two bad experiances with trying to do that. I ended up with both of them but didn't place the shot well and they ran for a while and suffered longer than I would have liked.
I won't do it anymore and will just wait for a good clean shot.
Well, let me clarify. If they are in full gallop I won't stand a chance good scope or not. I don't think at least.

The last 2 times each time I popped up from my spot they stopped to look at me. Each time...

-The scope was a bitch to get on them due to the little ivew finder type problem.
-The deer was either not a elligible buck or it was a doe and I did not have a doe license.

However! Had they been good buck and my scope was a little nicer I would've had a chance at a clean shot before they took off again.

Besides, for the purpose of a scope it would be easier to scope out targets to without moving so much with one that let me use the rifle in a more natural position. At least, that's what I think.

My '03 Sold.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 10:01 AM
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You really aren't going to get much for $50-$100, but if you up your thinking to $150-$200, you can get a quality optic that should handle everything you are trying to accomplish...Nikon has a reasonably priced pro-staff series for under $150, or you could still stay under $200 with a buckmaster series, I have used both and for the $$$ are good quality...




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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 01:05 PM
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It sounds like your scope and stock are not adjusted correctly for your face.

Try a couple of things...

1. Shoulder the rifle so it fits right and get a good cheekweld. Have somebody observe your line of sight.
2. Your eye needs to be EXACTLY in the center of the scope. If you are looking up into the scope (or looking down), you won't get a good sight picture.
3. If you are looking down, try a taller set of rings.
4. If you are looking up (the most common problem) then try raising your cheek. For test fitting I cut a mouse pad up into thirds and wrap it around the the stock where my cheek rests. Masking tape will hold it in place. Add a second or sometimes even a third layer if necessary. If this works, buy an adjustable cheek rest. (about $35)
5. Vertical alignment HAS to be correct FIRST.
6. Once vertical alignment is correct, move your head forward and back. If this clears up the sight picture, loosen your rings just a little and slide your scope forwards or back. If you can't, ditch the scope and buy one with adjustable eye relief.
7. Be very careful not get the scope TOO close to your eye. Having your eyebrow cut open from the scope recoil hurts.

Personally I would not buy a BSA scope, I have never seen one that would stand up to the recoil of a high powered rifle. You would sight them in and then 50 rounds later, they drift off.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm going to try playing with scope positioning - which I think with this scope is a worthless effort. (It is a Mossberg brand scope) I recently was checking out a buddy's rifle with a "cheap" (sub 100) scope and it was awesome compared to mine.

Anyway, I'll be at the range tomorrow trying to make this one work - but after that it is being put aside in favor of a new scope. (for this purpose, the BSA just may work buy I'll check them all out)

I appreciate all the help and feedback. Helped me out quite a bit.

Take care,

My '03 Sold.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 03:52 PM
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Nothing on there right now in that range, but keep checking. They usually have the Pro-Staff 3x9x40, which is perfect for your needs, and fall in that $100 range.

http://samplelist.com/default.aspx?d...arm=swfa_price
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 11:54 AM
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if you get less than a Nikon Pro Staff you are throwing away your money. It's just a matter of time when the scope will fail especially on the 30.06
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 12:28 PM
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Well sounds like you learned the lesson a lot of us have learned about trying to go cheap on optics. Until you throw down for a reputable scope, it usually ends like this.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 02:13 PM
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Well sounds like you learned the lesson a lot of us have learned about trying to go cheap on optics. Until you throw down for a reputable scope, it usually ends like this.
+1

I have given my kids 'more $100 scopes' then I know what to do with. The only one I kept was an NCStar 3x9 with illuminated reticle, and even with that, I would say 100-yards max. Cost $110 bucks at the gun show, and it was a spur of the moment purchase. Do yourself a favor, and save up for something decent. Hell, if you threw $20-bucks in an envelope for the next 6-months, you would have nearly $500 to work with.
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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So, just in case someone would happen to search for the samething -

I personally have decided on this scope...

http://www.opticsplanet.net/redfield...e-reticle.html

...seems like the best bang for the buck and I've heard people talk nice about them. Have not bought it yet, but will before hunting season.

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 09:07 AM
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Redfields used to be pretty good, now they are just so-so. Honestly - pay another 10 bucks and get the Nikon.
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 10:57 AM
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I agree 100% with JESmith. They brought back a cheap scope with a well known old school name to ride the coat tails of.
I would go with a Nikon over the Redfield, but if you did decide to go with that one I would not get the accu-range recticle, too much shit going on....
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 11:19 AM
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Nanchez Shooters Supply has a good deal on a refurbished Nikon Prostaff 3x9.

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...6310BR&src=sim

Wayne in FW
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
Yup, remember all that stuff for basic. The problem is for me to get the rifle on my shoulder right - my head/eyes are in a place where the scope only provides a small like peephole. I have to pull it in even farther and move my head up for the scope to provide a big enough view for me to see through it.

Plus, what I'm really worried about is when a deer is moving not being able to track it fast enough since I have to be in just the right spot to see through the scope. Do I make any sense?

Take care
I have a $15 scope on my Remington 700 and I have the same stupid problem with positioning. Luckily it holds zero and allows me to put bullet holes next to each other (~ 1.5 MOA average) at 100 yards. Ihaven't gotten to take it out farther than that. Can't wait to get the Nikon Monarch I have been eyeing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcongunner View Post
Nanchez Shooters Supply has a good deal on a refurbished Nikon Prostaff 3x9.

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...6310BR&src=sim

Wayne in FW
How does a refurbished scope work? What problems would they need refurbishing from?

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
So, just in case someone would happen to search for the samething -

I personally have decided on this scope...

http://www.opticsplanet.net/redfield...e-reticle.html

...seems like the best bang for the buck and I've heard people talk nice about them. Have not bought it yet, but will before hunting season.
I've learned my lesson over the years, I just go out and buy Nikon, Burris, or Leupold Scopes.

I don't waste my money on cheap scopes anymore.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Not that anyone cares, but I ended up with a Nikon Prostaff. The Redfield was sold out and backordered too far out so I got the Nikon. I almost spent more on the rings and stuff then the scope itself. Either way, I can see through it and hold my rifle in a comfortable manner. Very well worth it.

Have not SHOT with it yet, but will be tomorrow. I'll never know about the Redfield first hand since I've decided to stay Nikon/Leopuld as well. Too many sales/deals on them to not use them.

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 07:38 AM
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Good info. Looking for a scope for my M1a. I've been told you should always spend as much on a scope as the rifle, but no way in hell am I that serious about optics.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 06:25 PM
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if you want a good cheap scope find you a simmons aetec 2.8x10x44 you can usually find them for less than 100 and they are good for the money had one on a 300 win mag moced it to a 308 then on to a few ars then on my 243 still going strong
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 07:15 PM
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not that its important now but the bargain cave at cabela's is a great source for great price on good scopes Leupold marksmen(VxI) for $125 Nikon's for $125 I even seen Ziess scopes starting in the 4's
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 12:45 PM
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I can vouch for the Nikkon as a bargain scope. Excellent scope for the price.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I zero'ed it on my Mossberg ATR (not a high end weapon) and got some very nice groups at 100 yards. Easy as hell to aim and acquire the target....etc.

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 01:39 PM
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Good info. Looking for a scope for my M1a. I've been told you should always spend as much on a scope as the rifle, but no way in hell am I that serious about optics.
On a M1A, you better get a GOOD Scope Mount. (Thats going to cost you a bit of cash.)

I'd recommend a ARMS #18 mount, but if you want to go cheap, buy the ProMag HD Scope Mount for the M1A (STEEL MOUNT, NOT THE ALUMINUM MOUNT). (It will run you around 70-90 dollars for the ProMag vs the 300 plus for the ARMS #18).

Promag Mount :

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=416535
(You can find it cheaper on the net if you look. I recall buying mine for like 60 dollars).

And On my M1A, I put a Nikon Buckmaster Scope on it with MilDot. 4.5x-14.

So far it's been over two years or so, and approximately 1000 rounds, and still holds zero and clear.

On M1A's, cheap aluminum mounts flex and you'll lose zero. The Springfield Armory mount is garbage, and just about every mount they sell at Cheaper than Dirt is garbage.

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 06:49 PM
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It's called "eye relief" and you can adjust it by moving the scope fore/aft in the rings.

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