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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Loading ammo

Okay guys, I did some searching on the board and found bits and pieces of info.

I'd like to load my own ammo. Where do I start? Are there any starter kits that would get me scooting along?

Where do you like to buy your materials from? What's best to buy, primed/unprimed?

Can someone break this down a little for a newbie?
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 03:14 PM
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Alot depends on the caliber you are reloading, and the intended usage. Are you wanting to build really high quality rifle rounds, or churn out a bunch of 9mm

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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cmarsh93z View Post
Alot depends on the caliber you are reloading, and the intended usage. Are you wanting to build really high quality rifle rounds, or churn out a bunch of 9mm
I can definitely see where that could change things up. For now I need to churn out some .223. The guy advised he has had good luck with "23 grains of ramshot tac, cci primers, 75 grain amax, 2.450 OAL"

Not sure what all that means though at this point.

Soon i'll be picking up another handgun where I would just need to create some .40 range ammo.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 03:22 PM
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Dillon 550 press


edit my iphone didnt let me finish

set of dies
shellholder or shellplate
powder measuring/dispensing device
reloading manuals
scale
dial caliper
case trimmer
case tumbler

Last edited by 5.0LiterRiceEater; 12-28-2009 at 03:30 PM.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 03:24 PM
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Most of your reloading press/die company's sell beginner kits with just about everything besides tumbler and dies. All are pretty good mine is RCBS but there is nothing wrong with Lee, Hornady or Lyman.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys. I checked into RCBS's site and there were some informative videos on there.

The hand primer seems easy enough. What can go wrong with those? He was careful to handle them...
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 05:28 PM
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Its not cheap to start.. expect $600-700 worth of tools.

Dillon is top of the line when it comes to an reloading machine. I wanted a Hornady reloading press myself. THey were doing free bullets with the purchase of a press. And Cabelas sells them. They have coupons to help save some money.

$429 for the press at Cabelas,
1000 free bullets
$20 cabelas coupon http://information.cabelas.com/cabel.../?promo=9RC717

They were doing employee pricing a few days ago on everything which was 10-15% off

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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidmark View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I checked into RCBS's site and there were some informative videos on there.

The hand primer seems easy enough. What can go wrong with those? He was careful to handle them...
The oil in your skin is corrosive to the primers.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 06:14 PM
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I can definitely see where that could change things up. For now I need to churn out some .223. The guy advised he has had good luck with "23 grains of ramshot tac, cci primers, 75 grain amax, 2.450 OAL"
That's a pretty heavy powder charge for such a heavy bullet. Without knowing the specs of your rifle I am not sure that load would be safe, or if would even be accurate.
First of all I would get a good book on the basics of handloading and a good loading manual.
As far as loading kits go: Lee aniversary kits give you the most bang for your buck. RCBS is probably next. For a beginner I would stick with a single stage press or a turrent press. Progressive presses like the Dillion make loading faster, but they are easier to make mistakes on.
Then I would find a good handloader to help you get started.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 06:40 PM
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Soon i'll be picking up another handgun where I would just need to create some .40 range ammo.
Don't buy a Glock then, shooting reloads will void your warrantee, and possibly blow your hand off.

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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 06:43 PM
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Don't buy a Glock then, shooting reloads will void your warrantee, and possibly blow your hand off.
It will only blow if you over load or are shooting lead ball not jacketed ammo.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:05 PM
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If you reload .223/5.56 military ammo you will need a primer pocket swager to take the crimp out.

Best to learn from an experienced reloader, learn about starting loads, max loads etc....

Cheapest if you prime yourself...
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:28 PM
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I've been looking into starting as well, and I've bought a reloading manual and some beginner guides to learn more... I've been told/read that for a beginner its best to start with a single stage press, plus its always handy to have one even after stepping up to a progressive.

I've put off buying one now because primers are still hard to find and some powders are also in limited supply so its pointless to have the equipment if you can't buy the consumables

BTW: I was looking at this setup http://www.cabelas.com/p-0044088213986a.shtml you get alot of the basic tools, and they have a mail in rebate for 500 free hornady bullets worth like $150.

"Apres moi le deluge"


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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmark View Post
I can definitely see where that could change things up. For now I need to churn out some .223. The guy advised he has had good luck with "23 grains of ramshot tac, cci primers, 75 grain amax, 2.450 OAL"

Not sure what all that means though at this point.

Soon i'll be picking up another handgun where I would just need to create some .40 range ammo.
You will need a powder drop. You can set them to discharge XX amount of grains of powder. You'll need scales to confirm the weight and make sure it's putting out a consistant charge.

CCI is just a brand of primers. You can get Federal, Winchester, CCI, etc...

OAL is "Over All Length" or cartridge length.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dee View Post
Most of your reloading press/die company's sell beginner kits with just about everything besides tumbler and dies. All are pretty good mine is RCBS but there is nothing wrong with Lee, Hornady or Lyman.
I wouldn't agree here. Lee is cheaper, and it shows. I've got a buddy that's put out over 100k rounds out of a lee, but it requires constant attention/maintenance.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JESmith View Post
That's a pretty heavy powder charge for such a heavy bullet. Without knowing the specs of your rifle I am not sure that load would be safe, or if would even be accurate.
First of all I would get a good book on the basics of handloading and a good loading manual.
As far as loading kits go: Lee aniversary kits give you the most bang for your buck. RCBS is probably next. For a beginner I would stick with a single stage press or a turrent press. Progressive presses like the Dillion make loading faster, but they are easier to make mistakes on.
Then I would find a good handloader to help you get started.
Exactly.

NEVER, EVER, EVER reload out of specs you would find in a reloading data manual.
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dee View Post
It will only blow if you over load or are shooting lead ball not jacketed ammo.
The Glock .40 has an unsupported chamber and can go after thousands of rounds.

Ask me how I know. I had one blow up in my hands back in 1999 shooting WWB.
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 07:55 PM
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the good info folks.

On the specs I posted before, that is what the guy i'm getting the rifle from was shooting, out of a Remington 700 sps tactical..

I will definitely stick to what the manual says. In the end i'm hoping it will be more accurate since every bullet is precise.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 03trubluGT View Post
Exactly.

NEVER, EVER, EVER reload out of specs you would find in a reloading data manual.
You can when you learn how to look the cases over to check for signs of over pressure, but the safe thing to do is work your way up from the low end of the chart.
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 03trubluGT View Post
The Glock .40 has an unsupported chamber and can go after thousands of rounds.

Ask me how I know. I had one blow up in my hands back in 1999 shooting WWB.
Never heard of that being the problem all I've heard is that the type of rifling the Glocks have is real prone to leading up.
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:14 PM
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You can when you learn how to look the cases over to check for signs of over pressure, but the safe thing to do is work your way up from the low end of the chart.
I'm not going against any load tables.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jakesford View Post
I've been looking into starting as well, and I've bought a reloading manual and some beginner guides to learn more... I've been told/read that for a beginner its best to start with a single stage press, plus its always handy to have one even after stepping up to a progressive.

I've put off buying one now because primers are still hard to find and some powders are also in limited supply so its pointless to have the equipment if you can't buy the consumables

BTW: I was looking at this setup http://www.cabelas.com/p-0044088213986a.shtml you get alot of the basic tools, and they have a mail in rebate for 500 free hornady bullets worth like $150.
That kit seems pretty reasonable, especially with the mail in rebate for bullets, but it's backordered a few weeks.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:19 PM
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Never heard of that being the problem all I've heard is that the type of rifling the Glocks have is real prone to leading up.
It happend quite a few times back in the late 90's.

I was shooting a friend's Glock and it blew the mag out the bottom and disintigrated the chamber. Glock contended it was the ammo, and I sent it to Smyrna, GA. They called me and said that since the chamber was gone, it was impossible to assign fault, so they offered to replace it at cost. Back then it was $227 for a new one.
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:20 PM
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That kit seems pretty reasonable, especially with the mail in rebate for bullets, but it's backordered a few weeks.
I think Midway has them in stock... The lock and load setup is pretty cool

"Apres moi le deluge"


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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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I think Midway has them in stock... The lock and load setup is pretty cool
Okay cool.

I purchased the kit you mentioned, shell holder for .223, and die kit. Not sure if I missed anything, but I can pick it up later if so.

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 09:52 PM
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It happend quite a few times back in the late 90's.

I was shooting a friend's Glock and it blew the mag out the bottom and disintigrated the chamber. Glock contended it was the ammo, and I sent it to Smyrna, GA. They called me and said that since the chamber was gone, it was impossible to assign fault, so they offered to replace it at cost. Back then it was $227 for a new one.
That sucks thats about what I'd pay for one now.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 10:17 PM
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The hand primer seems easy enough. What can go wrong with those? He was careful to handle them...
Hand primers suck (they get the job done, but they're no fun to use). Get a ram prime setup, sooooo much better.
Quote:
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Its not cheap to start.. expect $600-700 worth of tools.
You can get by much cheaper than that. The Lee Anniversary Kit has most of what you need for about $100-$150.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03trubluGT View Post
It happend quite a few times back in the late 90's.
Glocks have looser chambers than most handguns, which allows them to feed cartridges better, and as long as you're using new cases and ammunition within the cartridge's standard pressure limit, you'll be alright. But if you start wearing cases thin (reloading the same case several times) and/or running higher pressures, with a standard Glock barrel, it can happen (if you significantly overcharge a cartridge - it will happen, with a Glock or with any gun).

I suggest you pick up an aftermarket barrel ($100 new) if you're reloading 9mm or .40 S&W for a Glock.


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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Skidmark View Post
I can definitely see where that could change things up. For now I need to churn out some .223. The guy advised he has had good luck with "23 grains of ramshot tac, cci primers, 75 grain amax, 2.450 OAL"

Not sure what all that means though at this point.

Soon i'll be picking up another handgun where I would just need to create some .40 range ammo.
I probably wouldn't load that round to that charge (The .223)

I would probably use .223 Commercial Cases, 55 Grain Bullets, 25.5 Grains of BL-C(2) powder, and 7-1/2 Small Rifle Primers. That will get you a pretty safe .223 Round. Its not a hot rod round at 25.5 grains of powder, but it will get the job done.

I would RECOMMEND you buy a good die set and a Factory Crimp die if you are going to use it in a semi-automatic rifle.

Things I would buy if I were you:

1. Single Stage Press - I recommend these so that you will be careful and measure everything.
2. DIGITAL SCALE - I would weigh EVERY powder charge, regardless if you have a dispenser or not.
3. Digital Calipers
4. Case Trimmer
5. Case Chamfer tool
6. Primer Pocket Cleaner Tool
7. Primer Seating tool (Either the hand style or the one that goes on your press).
8. Bullet remover hammer
9. Lots of Case Lube
10. Chronograph
11. LOTS OF READING.

Things you will find out:

Reloading manuals will VARY GREATLY. I end up using the powder charge charts off hodgdon's website. I have never had any issues following hodgdon powder recommendations and their website will let you download the charts for free. They list the pressures for the minimum charge and maximum charges. One thing I found out a while back, if you pick up a Nosler Book, Hornady Book, Sierra Book, they'll all list completely different bullet charges. At that point, I decided to use the gun powder manufacturers suggested powder charges and I've been happy ever since.

Also LEARN what bullets work well with what barrel twists. Example, don't go out and get a 75 grain .223 bullet and try shooting it out of a 1:10 twist barrel. It will never stabilize correctly.

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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 02:06 PM
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Reloading manuals will VARY GREATLY. I end up using the powder charge charts off hodgdon's website. I have never had any issues following hodgdon powder recommendations and their website will let you download the charts for free. They list the pressures for the minimum charge and maximum charges. One thing I found out a while back, if you pick up a Nosler Book, Hornady Book, Sierra Book, they'll all list completely different bullet charges. At that point, I decided to use the gun powder manufacturers suggested powder charges and I've been happy ever since.
If I'm using a specific bullet (ie Hornady XTPs or Speer Gold Dots, rather than generic-ish full metal jacket, jacketed hollow points, lead round-nose, etc.), I like to check the bullet manufacturer's manual for a load (or any other manual that has a load listed for that specific bullet and the powder I want to use). Bullet design and materials can make a significant difference when you're loading small handgun cases.


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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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I would RECOMMEND you buy a good die set and a Factory Crimp die if you are going to use it in a semi-automatic rifle.
What is the factory crimp die used for?

So far I have purchased this: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...847&hasJS=true

I had the intent of just loading for the bolt action rifle, but I may be picking up an AR15 tomorrow, so loads for that are in the future.
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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 04:00 PM
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What is the factory crimp die used for?

So far I have purchased this: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...847&hasJS=true

I had the intent of just loading for the bolt action rifle, but I may be picking up an AR15 tomorrow, so loads for that are in the future.
Some info here:

http://www.epinions.com/review/Reddi...t_483364212356
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 04:12 PM
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What is the factory crimp die used for?

So far I have purchased this: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...847&hasJS=true

I had the intent of just loading for the bolt action rifle, but I may be picking up an AR15 tomorrow, so loads for that are in the future.
Most company's don't really say to crimp rifle loads, but if in a semi auto without a crimp there is speculation that during feeding the bullet seating could be affected.I never loaded for my AR becouse the monarch is all I shot out of it and it worked great st s cheap price.
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 04:28 PM
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I like the factory crimp die for 45 ACP. I don't crimp rifle rounds except for 30-30(tube magazine guns).

Most reloaders will have an array of brands of equipment. Some of the top bench shooters use the cheap Lee hand prime tool.

A cheap single stage kit is most often recommended for a newcomer. Lee, Redding, RCBS, Lyman, Hornady all make them.

Some great sites:
www.thehighroad.org - good for newbies
www.thefiringline.com - good for newbies
www.6mmbr.com - more for semi-experienced to expert
www.benchrest.com - more for semi-experienced to expert

Suggest a good book to start loading. One of the component or tool manufacturers will work: Lee, Lyman, Nosler, Hornady etc.

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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 04:50 PM
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Pay close attention to your components, Brien. If you're loading for accuracy, write as much down about what you're doing, as well as what happens at the range with your hand loads. Good luck, man!

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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 01:53 AM
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Some random tips on reloading:

Buy carbide dies for pistol rounds, much easier to load.
Leave the old primer in when tumbling your cases, it keeps the primer hole from getting clogged with media.
Use drier lint sheets in your tumbler to collect fine dust. Run your media across a fine piece of window screen to remove dust before loading into your tumber.
Buy plastic ammo boxes and 2"x3" labels. Mark your load data on the box. You WILL forget.
Start a shooter's log book. Write down everything. Time, temp, wind, shooting position, group size, etc.
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JESmith View Post
Some random tips on reloading:

Buy carbide dies for pistol rounds, much easier to load.
Leave the old primer in when tumbling your cases, it keeps the primer hole from getting clogged with media.
Use drier lint sheets in your tumbler to collect fine dust. Run your media across a fine piece of window screen to remove dust before loading into your tumber.
Buy plastic ammo boxes and 2"x3" labels. Mark your load data on the box. You WILL forget.Start a shooter's log book. Write down everything. Time, temp, wind, shooting position, group size, etc.
I have some bench rest rounds from 1998 still in my safe. I have primer info/bullet info/powder type and charge, and OAL documented for my .308

I will have to say that the only thing that sucks is knowing wind speed. Unless you have a pocket weather station, most ranges don't provide that info.
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