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post #1 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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calling all reloaders

alright ive been doing some research, but im looking for some vet. opinions on which way to go.
It looks like starting out its between lee presses or dillon.
Now from the research i have done lee is good but less automatied, and dillion well is 10 times more with all the add ons but all u do is pull the handle, all im looking for is a speed around 400-600 rds an hour. The dillon 550 and the lee 1000 are in this range and they are both progressive presses. Im just looking at total cost with scales and all i wont be trimming cases or anything just handloads to start. And maybe some pics of your setup with some exp. as to why you chose it thank you very much.

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post #2 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 06:47 PM
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I used to reload with RCBS Rock Chucker & piggy back. I don't reload now because of space, but I have friends that still reload. Dillon FTMFW! You can break it, and they will send you a replacement part free. They have the best customer service, hands down.

I also have a friend with a Lee press, and it is a POS. It works, but it is as loose as a 2 dollar whore.

I've been looking at Dillons myself, and I'm going to be going with the RL650 when I do.
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post #3 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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hmmmm, i noticed that the lee 1000 is less then half the price of the low end dillon and figured theres prolly a really good reason for it.

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post #4 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 06:52 PM
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I use a Dillon RL550B, and there's a reason you pay that kind of money. I would suggest first getting a simple single stage Lee press so you can get familiar with the process and then you can make your decision on where to go from there. They are cheap and they make kits that come with everything you need. The reason I like the higher end Dillon's is because I like to do several thousand rounds at a time, and I don't like dealing with jams and incomplete stages/failures with sloppier presses.
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post #5 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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C.J. what options did you go with??

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post #6 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 06:58 PM
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C.J. what options did you go with??
At minimum you will need a flip tray & tube, and brass cleaner/shaker and you'll want the tumbler to get the media out. Also, the brass catcher is nice to have if you do many rounds at a time.

check this video out, it will show you the basic premise and all the preparation (which is what takes up all your time). After that, it's just the slots at Vegas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZuaihzGiSU
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post #7 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 07:09 PM
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Also, I think it's important to mention that an incomplete stage or bad load can result in your injury or death. Just forgetting to put powder in a case can kill you by having a squib round in the barrel when the next one comes down. Also, you might just put your survival on the rounds you're firing as well. And just as important as your equipment is your information. You'll want to have some quality reloading manuals to get the proper powder loads/bullets/primers for whatever you're going to be reloading.

But, on a comical note, you can do the same just being retarded too, seeing as I'm one of the few in the world that's fired a 9mm round out of a 10mm 1911. :P


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post #8 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 07:21 PM
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hmmmm, i noticed that the lee 1000 is less then half the price of the low end dillon and figured theres prolly a really good reason for it.
Ummmmm, yea..... My friend's Lee press has about an inch side to side wobble when you pull the handle.

It's sloppy as hell, but it works. Some of the parts are made out of that plasticized metal shit.. It's just cheap.

The RCBS rock chucker is a damn fine single stage press. You can reload up to .50 cal BMG with it.

But, the Dillon is the king of reloaders. When the weapons range reloaded they used a 1050. It is a damn good press.
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post #9 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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awesome thx guys im just getting into the reloading because im just tired of noone having what you need and now its thru the roof. i wont have to prep the cases if i have new brass ready to go? also anywhere i can get good manuels on reloading and the charts and what not. these may be retarded questions but i really wanna learn and how to do it right.

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post #10 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 08:55 PM
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Just pick up a new (not one from the 70's) reloading manual and it will explain the steps.

If you have new brass, you will need to seat the primers unless you bought primed brass.
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post #11 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:01 PM
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awesome thx guys im just getting into the reloading because im just tired of noone having what you need and now its thru the roof. i wont have to prep the cases if i have new brass ready to go? also anywhere i can get good manuels on reloading and the charts and what not. these may be retarded questions but i really wanna learn and how to do it right.
buying new brass kinda defeats the purpose of reloading from a monetary perspective. I'd start with spent brass first, the press will resize and crimp the cases for you.
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post #12 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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i have a friend thats getting rid of 5k of new brass unprimed so thats what i will be starting with i found some wolf primers i was going to use are the worth it or should i just use the cci primers?
I went by cableas not long ago and they were out lol

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post #13 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:07 PM
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i have a friend thats getting rid of 5k of new brass unprimed so thats what i will be starting with i found some wolf primers i was going to use are the worth it or should i just use the cci primers?
I went by cableas not long ago and they were out lol
Well, there are many primers available. I've never used wolf primers, but CCI is a trusted source. The materials you use are dependent on the manuals you use, keep that in mind.
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post #14 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:13 PM
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Is reloading really worth it? Seems very mind numbing..but is it worth it in cost savings?

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post #15 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:17 PM
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Is reloading really worth it? Seems very mind numbing..but is it worth it in cost savings?
Once you have all the equipment and knowledge, it is. Not only that, it's really fun and a hobby in itself. There's no better feeling then firing ammo all day long and not feeling guilty about it. Usually when you reload, the result is you shoot a hell of a lot more.
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post #16 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:20 PM
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Is reloading really worth it? Seems very mind numbing..but is it worth it in cost savings?
If you shoot much, yes. If obama gets his 500% tax increase on ammunition (defacto back-door gun control), hell yes.

I'm looking to get back into reloading. Money is tight, so I'll probably go with Lee, knowing that I'll upgrade in a couple of years. Lee has an offer right now where you buy a reloading manual and they give you a small single-stage press for free. Keep in mind you've still gotta buy dies, powder measure, etc.

http://leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/...nniversaryPack

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post #17 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:24 PM
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I was at the Winchester gallery a few months ago on the pistol range with a friend, and I shot several thousands rounds of ammo over a span of several hours. After a while an employee came in there and started sweeping up brass, I told him not to on my end, in which he proceeded to argue with me that I couldn't have fired all this ammo. Once I showed him another 3,000 rounds of unspent .45 he backed off. Reloading literally makes it so you can shoot all damn day long until you're tired of standing.
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post #18 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:58 PM
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Is reloading really worth it? Seems very mind numbing..but is it worth it in cost savings?

Good post on this:

http://www.dirtydozensbunker.com/showthread.php?t=336
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post #19 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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I was at the Winchester gallery a few months ago on the pistol range with a friend, and I shot several thousands rounds of ammo over a span of several hours. After a while an employee came in there and started sweeping up brass, I told him not to on my end, in which he proceeded to argue with me that I couldn't have fired all this ammo. Once I showed him another 3,000 rounds of unspent .45 he backed off. Reloading literally makes it so you can shoot all damn day long until you're tired of standing.
thats pretty much what im looking to do i hate shooting and feeling like im pissing so much money away doing what i love, i wanna to the rifle rounds first then do shotgun ammo, i went and shot skeet 400 rds was 100 bux fing nuts

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post #20 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 07:16 AM
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This a good deal?

Reloading Equipment - $500 (Rockwall)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply to: [email protected] [?]
Date: 2009-01-11, 4:26PM CST



This is a compete kit ready to go including several items which were purchased as optional or separate. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this kit and everything is in like new condition. I want to move into shotshell reloading instead. If the pictures do not come out, then re-ply with a message and I will forward them to you.

Rock Chucker Press, 5-0-5 Mechanical Scale, Powder Pro digital scale, Hand Priming Tool, Uniflow Powder Measure with Advanced Powder Measure Stand and Powder Baffle, Lyman Powder dispenser No. 55, Case Lube Pad, Case Lube-2, Case Neck Brushes, Case Loading Block, Powder Funnel, Hex wrench set, Debur tool, Impact bullet puller, Large capacity case tumbler, Small capacity case tumbler, Speer Reloading Manual, TRIM PRO manual case trimmer kit including four shell plates and nine pilots, Lyman 30/30 Win A-A 2 die riffle set, Lyman 38-357 3 die set, Lyman .45 ACP-RN SS 374 3 die set, RCBS .45 ACP 3 die carb set.


http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/spo/988979565.html
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post #21 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 07:49 AM
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i need a buddy with reload equipment that ill pay a bit to use. it wouldnt be advantageous for me to buy the stuff.
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post #22 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 08:48 AM
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Hey CJ, I have been thinking about getting a Remington 700 or some other higher end .308 for precision shooting and started thinking about trying my hand at hand loading my own ammo. I have never done it before either but I have heard that some style presses arent as good as other when you start getting into match grade ammo. Do you have any info on that?

That youtube video cleared up alot of questions I had along with his other vid on setting up dies.
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post #23 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 08:55 AM
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Hey CJ, I have been thinking about getting a Remington 700 or some other higher end .308 for precision shooting and started thinking about trying my hand at hand loading my own ammo. I have never done it before either but I have heard that some style presses arent as good as other when you start getting into match grade ammo. Do you have any info on that?

That youtube video cleared up alot of questions I had along with his other vid on setting up dies.
Match grade ammo is sensitive to your equipment because of the tight tolerances involved in getting things perfect. I hate to be a broken record, but most match grade reloaders will be using Dillon presses.

Here is a link to exactly what you're asking about:

http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/reloadingaccuracy.html

The keys are competition dies, high quality case trimmers, lubes, good quality calipers, and match grade bullets, primers, cases, and powder.

Having the proper equipment and education doesn't necessarily mean you'll have better ammo, but it allows you to achieve the most accurate ammo possible for your gun. And, it's pretty fun to do.
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post #24 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:07 AM
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The best way I have found to reload match grade ammo is on a quality single stage press. There is too much play in a progressive system.

I used to reload .308 for my 700 PSS.

I used a RCBS Rock Chucker, RCBS Bench Rest rifle dies, and case trimmer, calipers, etc.

I would do a batch at a time (100 round) and would do the following:

1. Tumble brass
2. Size and measure brass, trim if necessary
3. Prime brass
4. Charge brass
5. Set up the seating die and load/crimp bullets.

It would take the most time setting up the dies, but once done, you can crank them out.
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post #25 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:40 AM
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The best way I have found to reload match grade ammo is on a quality single stage press. There is too much play in a progressive system.

Yeah thats what I was thinking of. Alot of the info I have found online mentions that the slower single stage is the best way to achieve match grade precision especially when pressing the bullet into the casing without it going in cock eyed.

Thanks for the info guys!
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post #26 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 11:28 AM
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There is too much play in a progressive system.
It depends on the press. Dillon progressives are commonly used in match ammo production.

The Rockchucker is a fantastic single stage press, one of the best. I would recommend this to get familiar with the process, but high end progressive's are just as good.
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post #27 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 11:30 AM
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I let the factory reload my ammo.
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post #28 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 11:34 AM
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I let the factory reload my ammo.
I'm surprised you don't. That 7.92mm must get expensive.
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post #29 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 01:17 PM
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I would agree with CJ. get a single stage press to start off with. then go with Dillon press. i have had my Dillon Square Deal "B" for about 15 yrs. i mainly shoot pistol rounds 9mm, 38 spl. 357 mag, 44 mag, 45 acp., 45 LC. with my mag rounds i make them very hot. because i have a few lever action rifles that like 357mag, 44 mag, and 45 LC. every 10th round i measure out of habit and the powder drop is dead on every time not matter what cal. i am loading. the start up cost is more with a Dillon. but you can pay $20 a box for 357mag which is about .40 cents a round or when you get your supplies build up you can reload for around .05 to .10 cents around depending on your powder and primers and choice of bullets.
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post #30 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 01:44 PM
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I'm surprised you don't. That 7.92mm must get expensive.
I got about 20k of 8mm stashed away. And it grows weekly.

Everything I shoot that's 8mm doesnt allow for a reloadable cartridge when finished.
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post #31 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 02:29 PM
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I would agree with CJ. get a single stage press to start off with. then go with Dillon press. i have had my Dillon Square Deal "B" for about 15 yrs. i mainly shoot pistol rounds 9mm, 38 spl. 357 mag, 44 mag, 45 acp., 45 LC. with my mag rounds i make them very hot. because i have a few lever action rifles that like 357mag, 44 mag, and 45 LC. every 10th round i measure out of habit and the powder drop is dead on every time not matter what cal. i am loading. the start up cost is more with a Dillon. but you can pay $20 a box for 357mag which is about .40 cents a round or when you get your supplies build up you can reload for around .05 to .10 cents around depending on your powder and primers and choice of bullets.
I don't necessarily agree with this. I started reloading on a Dillon 550 and loaded many a thousand a round on this machine and still think it's the best all around press available for the average reloader. If your press is set up right where you can look down on it and physically see in your brass where the powder drop accorded i think you will be fine. Even if you go with a single stage press he will still need all the basics. You can easily convert the 550 to a single stage press if you like, for those guys that think you can only get precision out of a Single stage press. Dillon has one of the best warranties in the business and it's hard to go wrong with their products. I say get a 550 spend the money the first time with no regrets. If you plan to do a lot of shooting it will pay for itself quickly. I've owned a rock chucker, 550 and 650 simultaneously and the only press I still own is the 550. If you are in the DFW area and need help setting up your gear, shoot me a PM and I'll give you a hand.
Scale
Flip Tray
Caliper
Bullet Puller (for those little mistakes or loads you don't like)
Dies
Good loading manual. (there is tons of info available online)
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post #32 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 03:54 PM
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I don't necessarily agree with this. I started reloading on a Dillon 550 and loaded many a thousand a round on this machine and still think it's the best all around press available for the average reloader. If your press is set up right where you can look down on it and physically see in your brass where the powder drop accorded i think you will be fine. Even if you go with a single stage press he will still need all the basics. You can easily convert the 550 to a single stage press if you like, for those guys that think you can only get precision out of a Single stage press. Dillon has one of the best warranties in the business and it's hard to go wrong with their products. I say get a 550 spend the money the first time with no regrets. If you plan to do a lot of shooting it will pay for itself quickly. I've owned a rock chucker, 550 and 650 simultaneously and the only press I still own is the 550. If you are in the DFW area and need help setting up your gear, shoot me a PM and I'll give you a hand.
Scale
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If you have the money to throw down on a 550 immediately and you already know you're going to like it then that's a good idea. But I highly suggest you start with a single stage and decide if you want to invest in more. A single stage will do everything a progressive stage does, just for cheaper.
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post #33 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 06:05 PM
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If you have the money to throw down on a 550 immediately and you already know you're going to like it then that's a good idea. But I highly suggest you start with a single stage and decide if you want to invest in more. A single stage will do everything a progressive stage does, just for cheaper.
There is no doubt that a single stage will do everything a progressive press will do, but it does it so much slooooooooooooooooooower. IF you get a rock chucker or you get a dillon... it's a good piece of gear, if you decide to upgrade from a single stage to a dillon even better. Both pieces have their place.
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post #34 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 03:00 PM
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yes single stage is slow very slow. just was saying for him to start out cheap as possible. he may say the hell with reloading after he does some. and not have a bunch money tied up in a press he won't use. and go back to buying ammo in the store. or he can drop some cash get a dillon. he may like reloading or hate it but he can always sell the press down the road.
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post #35 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 02:00 AM
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I'll cast another vote for Dillon. A guy I used to work for had all the primers in his full primer tube go off on him, and the tube burst in the opposit direction from him. He sent the tube in, and they sent him back a new one and a written apology from a honcho.

Give me a dollar.
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post #36 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 01:19 PM
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Just posted today on craigslist. I have no connection to anyone involved in the deal. Just seemed like a good buy. If I was still looking, I'd be all over this.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/spo/994345195.html

RCBS Reloading Equipment - $100 (Plano)
Reply to: [email protected] [?]
Date: 2009-01-15, 4:11PM CST
RCBS JR3 Press
RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure
RCBS Powder Trickler
RCBS 3 Die Set .357 Mag
RCBS Case Lube Pad
RCBS Beam Scale
Lyman Reloading Handbook
Lee Loader .357 Mag

All for $100

All older equipment, well cared for, very good to nearly new condition.

Also have additional items specifically for .357 Mag.

DFWMustangs.net
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post #37 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 01:30 PM
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Just posted today on craigslist. I have no connection to anyone involved in the deal. Just seemed like a good buy. If I was still looking, I'd be all over this.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/spo/994345195.html

RCBS Reloading Equipment - $100 (Plano)
Reply to: [email protected] [?]
Date: 2009-01-15, 4:11PM CST
RCBS JR3 Press
RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure
RCBS Powder Trickler
RCBS 3 Die Set .357 Mag
RCBS Case Lube Pad
RCBS Beam Scale
Lyman Reloading Handbook
Lee Loader .357 Mag

All for $100

All older equipment, well cared for, very good to nearly new condition.

Also have additional items specifically for .357 Mag.
thanks for the link! i sent him a message and said i would pick it up right now. me and a buddy have been thinking about it since we read the thread. might be fun to learn.
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post #38 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 02:47 PM
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damn it to hell. it's sold.
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post #39 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:00 PM
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Ok...Im still confused. After doing some reading and video watching...Im concluding it is not really worth it to reload 9mm, .40 SW or .223... is this correct?

.40 SW bullets look like $150/1000, $25 for primers, $60 on powder for 1000. That makes 1000 rounds roughly $235. I can buy blazer brass at Wally world for $265/1000 w/tax.

.223 is more expensive

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post #40 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:36 PM
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Ok...Im still confused. After doing some reading and video watching...Im concluding it is not really worth it to reload 9mm, .40 SW or .223... is this correct?

.40 SW bullets look like $150/1000, $25 for primers, $60 on powder for 1000. That makes 1000 rounds roughly $235. I can buy blazer brass at Wally world for $265/1000 w/tax.

.223 is more expensive
Once you have the brass it can be reused about 4-5 times depending on inspection.
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post #41 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:40 PM
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He didn't include brass.

Use lead bullets. They're quite a bit cheaper. But no, the cheapest jacketed handloads can't compete with the cheapest factory ammo in 9mm and .40 S&W, and maybe .45 ACP. What it does allow you do is fine tune for accuracy and power/recoil.


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post #42 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:44 PM
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He didn't include brass.

Use lead bullets. They're quite a bit cheaper. But no, the cheapest jacketed handloads can't compete with the cheapest factory ammo in 9mm and .40 S&W, and maybe .45 ACP. What it does allow you do is fine tune for accuracy and power/recoil.

That's what I get for multi tasking......
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post #43 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:49 PM
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He didn't include brass.

Use lead bullets. They're quite a bit cheaper. But no, the cheapest jacketed handloads can't compete with the cheapest factory ammo in 9mm and .40 S&W, and maybe .45 ACP. What it does allow you do is fine tune for accuracy and power/recoil.
I have brass... but it doesnt look like it is worth investing the money into the reloading equipment, much less all the work to clean/deprime/size/cut the brass... Reloading itself isnt a big deal...its the prep work that kills me.

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post #44 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:56 PM
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Ok...Im still confused. After doing some reading and video watching...Im concluding it is not really worth it to reload 9mm, .40 SW or .223... is this correct?

.40 SW bullets look like $150/1000, $25 for primers, $60 on powder for 1000. That makes 1000 rounds roughly $235. I can buy blazer brass at Wally world for $265/1000 w/tax.

.223 is more expensive

9mm, no way

.40, .223 - yes.
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post #45 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
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He didn't include brass.

Use lead bullets. They're quite a bit cheaper. But no, the cheapest jacketed handloads can't compete with the cheapest factory ammo in 9mm and .40 S&W, and maybe .45 ACP. What it does allow you do is fine tune for accuracy and power/recoil.
.45ACP is cheaper reloading no matter how you slice it. I suggest you cast your own bullets if you're not interested in jacketed ammo.

Once you get familiar with reloading and getting good deals on various components, you can really start seeing the benefits.

1000 cast bullets for $90

everything else you should have if you've been reloading for a while, powder lasts a long time, buy primers by the 5k brick. So for me, once you're up and moving, you can churn out .45ACP for 11 cents a round, or about $2.20 for a box of 20.

If you cast your own, extract lead from car batteries, etc. you can get reloading down to the cost of primers and powder alone.

Last edited by CJ; 01-21-2009 at 05:06 PM.
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post #46 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 05:05 PM
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I have brass... but it doesnt look like it is worth investing the money into the reloading equipment, much less all the work to clean/deprime/size/cut the brass... Reloading itself isnt a big deal...its the prep work that kills me.
oh, and I'll take that brass if you're not interested!
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post #47 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 06:26 PM
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oh, and I'll take that brass if you're not interested!
I will collect it...if I dont end up reloading, you can have it. It just seems like a lot of work. The prep of trimming cases and taking out the old primer looks like it takes forever.

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post #48 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 06:29 PM
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You don't need to trim pistol cases, and depriming is the quickest stage in the whole process (if you're using a progressive, it doesn't matter).

But cut me in on the free brass, asshole!


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post #49 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 06:33 PM
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You don't need to trim pistol cases, and depriming is the quickest stage in the whole process (if you're using a progressive, it doesn't matter).

But cut me in on the free brass, asshole!
i dont have any 10mm for you jerk!
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post #50 of 76 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 06:33 PM
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You don't need to trim pistol cases, and depriming is the quickest stage in the whole process (if you're using a progressive, it doesn't matter).

But cut me in on the free brass, asshole!
Do the progressive ones deprime? If I dont have to trim brass and the press takes out the spent primer... I might be in. Screw trimming 223 cases.

Can either of you give me an idea on prices I should pay for supplies? Midway seems to be the best place but might not be the best price.

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