Buffing, waxing question. - DFWstangs Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Buffing, waxing question.

I have stock shitty 1991 ford red paint.

It looks like shit, I buff it with 3m rubbing compound using a 10 inch orbital buffer with a Terry cloth pad, wiping excess off with microfiber cloths.

Im not buffing to hard or to much, it's shiny but has shitty fine scratches In it.

I switched to a meguires ultimate compound and it's not as bad.

What should I use, change? Do?

Thanks

91 Coupe, off road h, underdrive pulleys, short belt with a/c, electric fans and 3.73s. 3060lbs. Daily driven 20mpg average.


All stock 91 coupe. Stang' Bangin'


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 03:35 PM
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take it to Nick
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 04:31 PM
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Go to a store like english color and buy different grit compounds and the pads that go with them.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 05:47 PM
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LOL at using rubbing compound. Not a good idea.

D.F.W.M.U.S.T.A.N.G.S.N.E.T
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 05:59 PM
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Your car should be E4 red. Ford changed around that time from EP. The only diff. is the E4 is base/clear. If you are not getting red on your rag you are working on clear, if you are stop and don't do anything else to it. If it is clear you can take it to someone that knows what they are doing and has the tools to do it right.
Regardless of who works on it unless it has been repainted(and maby not then) you don't know how thin the clear is and chance cutting through. 3000 da and a buff might bring it right around to where you want it.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 06:49 PM
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Go buy some 3m swirl compound. I got some works great
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 06:54 PM
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Meguiars 151, and a Meguiar's yellow pad on a DA. Or just take it to Nick. Or buy the stuff and I'll do it for you, lol.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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There is no clear coat on the car, pad turns red.



If you can tell a difference

91 Coupe, off road h, underdrive pulleys, short belt with a/c, electric fans and 3.73s. 3060lbs. Daily driven 20mpg average.


All stock 91 coupe. Stang' Bangin'


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester View Post
I just want to smoke weed, be naked, and play video games.That is all.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 07:31 PM
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Then leave it alone for now.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010, 08:03 AM
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You need polish to bring the color back. I had one that was faded tro chalk and used a micro finish compound then polish then wax... Looked brand new!!
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010, 08:13 AM
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I'm not expert, especially on stuff w/o a clear coat. I'd probably start with Megs M205 and see how that works with a DA machine. I'd say M105, but w/o clear coat and all that,*I* would start off conservative - especially since I'm not an expert.

I'd also probably lightly clay the car after a very thorough wash. IMO, pick a spot - wash it, clay it and then try one M205 and see if it comes out better for you. M205 should do enough to get out the swirls and not eat up the paint.

Edit: Also, you may have better luck in the detailing forum too.

My '03 Sold.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010, 04:42 PM
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If you have the factory EP then you want to use something mild. You don't have a lot of paint on the car.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 05:52 AM
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3m 05996 foam pad glaze with the black 3m egg crate pad on a polisher. Nuff said.

also this is not factory paint. Just giving you an idea of what EP can look like...


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2010, 06:39 AM
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Sorry for the late response. Been really busy here lately.

Single stage paint is extremely thin by nature. Much thinner that more modern base/clear paint jobs. You need to be really careful working with it, you don't know if it's ever been buffed before. You may not be removing much paint, but the person before you could have butchered it.

The 10" buffer you're using, is it one of those cheaper $25-$50 machines like you buy at Walmart? If so, that is a very weak machine by industry standards. Plus the compound you're using isn't designed to be used with a machine like that. There is soooo much to tell about doing a job like this. Probably be much easier if you just call me sometime and we can chat over the phone.

Nick
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2010, 02:40 PM
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id probably use some 200 grit sandpaper and a sandblaster, that will get the swirls out. =)

1993 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra #1741. 306, e303, stock gt40 heads, ported lower intake. 1.7rr, shorties o/r xpipe, flowmaster, 3.73, centerforce stage II, steeda tri ax short throw, KB pistons, eibach drag launch springs, steeda upper and lower control arms, lakewood shocks, CAI, chipped and tuned, 265 rwhp, 304 ftlbs.
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