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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-09-2009, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Questions about the Porter Cable 7424

Hey All,
I'm about to buy this buffer (the 7424) and am not clear on a few things and was curious if anyone had any clarification. (Googled and still not sure)

Does it come with the velcro pad?

Which pads are recommend for basic wax on/wax off stuff?

Any other recommendations for this buffer?

Ebay seems to be the cheapest place to buy the straight buffer, anyone seen it cheaper then 99-109?

Thank you

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:05 AM
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Does it come with the velcro pad? Depend on the kit you buy. Some will, some won't.

Which pads are recommend for basic wax on/wax off stuff? Check out Meguiar's pads, or the CCS pads. These are the two brands that I use, and are the highest quality pads available.

Any other recommendations for this buffer? Not a buffer, it's a DA(Dual Action Polisher). See your PM's for more recomendations...

Ebay seems to be the cheapest place to buy the straight buffer, anyone seen it cheaper then 99-109? Seems like a good price, but it all depends on what you get for your money. Check autodetailingsolutions.com for more DA kits. They sell the Meguiar's brand DA, and it has a bit more power than the Porter Cable unit.




If you are still unsure, you are free to come by the house and try the tools out. I have pretty much every detailing tool out there, and you can see which one fits you best.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Nick,
As opposed to staying in PMs I'm just going to stay here. As I do not think this will hurt your business...

1. People with my mindset at this time are going to do what I'm doing anyway. This will help others stay with you. Plus, I don't think I'm fooling myself. My work will be nice with these tools but.... there is still a difference between a pro and an amateur. Not to mention, even if I were at the pro level there is definetly a lot of work saved between hiring and doing it yourself.

2. This may help others with my mind set. Buying does not seem HARD per se, but there are a lot of options out there.

---

I've found this thread that helped me get started..

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...lish-help.html

this seems like the best bang for the buck to get started..

http://autogeek.net/porter-cable-pad-kit.html

...but I have not checked out that link you sent me yet.

I concur on pads and I'm looking for a decent polishing pad for paint in okay shape and a waxing pad. Seems like everyone just removes the product with a microfiber towel so I'm not seeing much use there. Seems that orange pads and grey pads are all I'll need at first. Am I somewhat correct?

Much appreciate the help.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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That site you linked to does not carry PC gear it seems, but this kit has me highly interested...

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/g110-kit-2.html

Seems I can do everything I can do with the PC, but I get a case, duffel, a little more power (which I'm not sure is a good thing) and then use the same accessories the PC would use.

Do you dig the G110?

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:31 AM
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No worries man, I'd rather you guys get the correct info when attempting to do something like this yourself.

For a starter set, I would definately recomend the Meguiar's pads. There are only 3 pads, and a lot less confusion. Maroon for heavy cutting, yellow for moderate cutting, and black/tan for light polishing/waxing. And yes, I also always remove wax by hand with a microfiber towel. I used to use a machine for this step, but I get more satisfaction, and a better job removing by hand.

The black and tan pads Meguiar's offers are pretty much the same thing. Meguiar's launched a new version of their pads last year(Soft Buff 2.0). The new pads are 1/2" wider, and easier to work with. Old pads are still good, and I use both old and new for different reasons. They changed the color of the finishing pad from tan to black on the new Soft Buff 2.0 pads, but they are pretty much the same.

CCS pads can be a bit overwhelming for a beginer. I think there are 6 different colors total, and 4 different sizes of each color. Can be quite confusing when you're still pretty green to all of this. To keep things simple, start off with the Meguiar's pads, then work out from there when you get more experience under your belt. Basically all you'll really need to buy are the yellow and tan/black pads. Between these, you can accomplish pretty much all you need to do(unless the paint is just in absolute horrible condition).

Like I said in the PM, feel free to swing by the house sometime for a better explaination of everything. And you can try out the different tools and pads to see what fits you the best.

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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
That site you linked to does not carry PC gear it seems, but this kit has me highly interested...

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/g110-kit-2.html

Seems I can do everything I can do with the PC, but I get a case, duffel, a little more power (which I'm not sure is a good thing) and then use the same accessories the PC would use.

Do you dig the G110?
Thats what I was saying in the first reply. Meguiar's has their own brand of DA(the G110). It has more power than the Porter Cable unit, and IMO better customer support. You can not go wrong with the kit you picked out from there. That is basically everything you'll need, aside from a bottle of M105 and you'll also need a couple of more towels.

I have the Porter Cable DA, the Meguiar's G110, the Flex forced rotation DA, Metabo DA, and a few other tools. When reaching for a DA, I always grab the Meguiar's G110. It's a much better unit than the Porter Cable unit. But that is my personal opinion. You need to try them out and see what fits you the best.

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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Nick, I think I'm now sold on the G110 for the following reasons...

-Your input
-Online review
-It has a case
-It comes with a duffel bag (organize stuff)
-PC makes great stuff, but other PC gear I have it is a PITA to get support on it after the fact
-A few other minor things.

I greatly appreciate your input on this one, it really did help me out a TON. I may take you up on the offer you put forth though, so I hope it was not empty.

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
Hey Nick, I think I'm now sold on the G110 for the following reasons...

-Your input
-Online review
-It has a case
-It comes with a duffel bag (organize stuff)
-PC makes great stuff, but other PC gear I have it is a PITA to get support on it after the fact
-A few other minor things.

I greatly appreciate your input on this one, it really did help me out a TON. I may take you up on the offer you put forth though, so I hope it was not empty.
No, come on by. Heck, I may even put you to work

Just thought I'd mention, the PC that you're looking at(G110) is a Meguiar's product, and as with everything from them, you get the outstanding Meguiar's customer support. They are one of the best in the industry when it comes to customer support. They always make everything right, no matter what it costs them.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 06:22 PM
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 10:40 AM
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Isn't Porter Cable coming out with a New PC?

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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceyko View Post
That site you linked to does not carry PC gear it seems, but this kit has me highly interested...

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/g110-kit-2.html

Seems I can do everything I can do with the PC, but I get a case, duffel, a little more power (which I'm not sure is a good thing) and then use the same accessories the PC would use.

Do you dig the G110?
That looks like a pretty nice kit. I need to upgrade myself and may grab this one.

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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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That looks like a pretty nice kit. I need to upgrade myself and may grab this one.
Yeah, shopping around for the best deal to buy this week I think. So far though that site seems to have the best price. Also trying to determine what else I need.

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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 11:25 AM
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Hey Nick, how long do the Mequires pads last? Assuming they are cared for properly.

Are you a re-seller for any of this stuff?

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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 11:28 AM
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Hey Nick, how long do the Mequires pads last? Assuming they are cared for properly.

Are you a re-seller for any of this stuff?
I've got pads that I bought 3 years ago, and I put them through daily abuse. Take care of them, and they will last a long time.

I am not a reseller of anything.
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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 08:39 AM
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A lot of good info, Nick!

I use the LCC (pads) stuff and have had great results and my clients love the results, just another option.

I would listen to nick, Ceyko...he'll get you taken care of fo sho.

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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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A lot of good info, Nick!

I use the LCC (pads) stuff and have had great results and my clients love the results, just another option.

I would listen to nick, Ceyko...he'll get you taken care of fo sho.
hahaha, there is a reason I hit the dude up for the information. I'm about to put the order in for the G110 kit with the standard pads that it comes with. Figure it'll be good enough for me to clay, polish and apply wax this year until I figure out what I need for next year.

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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Just to add in some more information - I emailed them directly for additional input. Basically emailed the kit I linked above and asked what else they recommend...

Quote:

The kit that you have selected has everything needed as far as the machine and pads go but you will want to pick up a couple more products. Iíll go through the other products and also the reason behind using them.



After you wash and clay you would want to use the #205 (that is included with the kit you have selected) or the Ultimate Compound. The #205 is for light to moderate defects whereas the Ultimate Compound is for heavy defects. We always recommended going with the least aggressive method first so you will want to first do a test section with the #205 and look at the results before you try the Ultimate Compound. For both of these products would be applied with the W8207 (yellow) pad at a speed of 5.



After removing the defects with either of those products I would recommended using our NXT Tech Wax 2.0; this product is fully synthetic so it will be more durable than a carnauba-based wax. Also, it provides a great gloss and depth. This product would be applied with the W9207 (black) pad at a speed of 3.



If you have anymore questions please feel free to contact me again.



Have a great day!

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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:09 PM
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Good info!! I have some NXT that I haven't used yet.

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:09 PM
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Like I said, you'll need the M105, which is the ultimate compound.

Be careful with the NXT in Texas. I am a product tester for Meguiar's, and always had problems with NXT here. The new 2.0 version is better than the original, but it still streaks. I would suggest M26 as a wax if you're going to stick with Meguiar's products. If you have a lighter colored vehicle, then the NXT shouldn't be a problem. I only noticed the streaking with darker colored vehicles where you can really see things like this.

And pick up another 3 pack of the Suprime Shine Microfiber towels. You will need them.

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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:10 PM
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If you're dead set on using NXT, or you already have it. Put it on SUPER thin! If you think you have it on thin enough, put it on thinner! Then do a 2nd coat.

2 thin coats are better than trying to apply 1 single thick coat. NXT is very tricky on a dark colored vehicle.

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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:11 PM
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What causes the streaking? Heat, humidity?

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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:14 PM
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What causes the streaking? Heat, humidity?
Still unsure. Sometimes we got great results, most of the time it streaked. Could be a batch process, or it could be the heat/humitity. No one has ever nailed the problem down to figure out exactly what the cause is.
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:17 PM
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Well, if I have problems with that, I have some M26 also I can fall back on.

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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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If you're dead set on using NXT, or you already have it. Put it on SUPER thin! If you think you have it on thin enough, put it on thinner! Then do a 2nd coat.

2 thin coats are better than trying to apply 1 single thick coat. NXT is very tricky on a dark colored vehicle.

Nick
I was also hitting him up on pads and stuff. Guess I just need the grey.

I agreed on needing the M105, but I'm not going to get that right away since in my mind the M205 is safer for learning on. Maybe after I get 1/2 vehilces out of the way I'll pick some of that up. If you use the M205, do you have to use the M105 afterwards or can you just do the M205 and then wax and it'll look as good as it would with M205 and M105?

My other question is how yall use this product during the summer without the dreaded baking happening. During the summer my car can burn me if out in the sun. In my normal house garage it is hot as tits. Am I limited to just mornings?

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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:22 PM
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Well, if I have problems with that, I have some M26 also I can fall back on.
M26 is a great wax. Never had a problem with it, and it dries clear so it won't leave that white residue on your trim pieces. I prefer it over NXT, but thats my personal preference. Some people prefer NXT over anything else. Put the two side by side on your car, and I bet you the M26 will look better But it will not last as long as NXT.

Basic rule of thumb, synthetic waxes last longer, carnauba waxes look better
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:26 PM
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I was also hitting him up on pads and stuff. Guess I just need the grey.

I agreed on needing the M105, but I'm not going to get that right away since in my mind the M205 is safer for learning on. Maybe after I get 1/2 vehilces out of the way I'll pick some of that up. If you use the M205, do you have to use the M105 afterwards or can you just do the M205 and then wax and it'll look as good as it would with M205 and M105?

My other question is how yall use this product during the summer without the dreaded baking happening. During the summer my car can burn me if out in the sun. In my normal house garage it is hot as tits. Am I limited to just mornings?
M105 can finish out very nice. Every vehicle is different, so I can't say for sure if you'll need M205 to finish it up or not. There are some cars that M105 is all it needs, others need more. Case by case basis.

As far as baking out in the sun, don't polish or wax your car in the sun. This only leads to problems. Always do it in the garage or in the shade. Hot paint and polish are a bad combination. The products will not work right.
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:40 PM
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Well, if I have problems with that, I have some M26 also I can fall back on.
Something else to keep in mind. M26 has no cleaning agents in it. So it will not remove the streaking caused by NXT(if you get the streaking).
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 01:04 PM
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Something else to keep in mind. M26 has no cleaning agents in it. So it will not remove the streaking caused by NXT(if you get the streaking).
Thanks for the info. I pretty much figured I'd have to start over if it didn't work. I'll test it before doing the whole car.

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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I pretty much figured I'd have to start over if it didn't work. I'll test it before doing the whole car.
start over by washing the car down or another way? Just curious how you get a redo. (not being a smart ass)

I was told washing a car down with dawn nukes the wax and gives you a fresh start - I juts don't know if that is true or not.

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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 01:07 PM
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start over by washing the car down or another way? Just curious how you get a redo. (not being a smart ass)

I was told washing a car down with dawn nukes the wax and gives you a fresh start - I juts don't know if that is true or not.
I'd have to Dawn it.

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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 01:47 PM
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Or just use a cleaner wax and that will remove any traces of the streaking from NXT
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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lol, my god it's like 20 passes over each car I'm gonna have to make! I thought this tool was supposed to make it easier. hehehe

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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 04:45 PM
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lol, my god it's like 20 passes over each car I'm gonna have to make! I thought this tool was supposed to make it easier. hehehe
LOL, if you think thats bad, you should come work with me on a car
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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LOL, if you think thats bad, you should come work with me on a car
No want.

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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I just bought that kit and some other goodies. Around 238 bucks and that's not with a bigger bottle of the M205, just the 12oz sampler then a 32oz of the M105, clay...etc

I have no idea why I am all excited for this extra work I just put on myself...to justify stealing money from the wife's "baby fund."

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Nick/All,
My kit came in yesterday and even though I had to mow the lawn - I of course pulled it all out and started take a look at it. I got several questions now and was hoping for some more input. I have not googled these questions yet, but I'd post them here anyway. Technically all my previous answers were on google, but I find answers from Nick and other board members important.

Here are my new questions...

1. The pad say to have some other solution to prep them for use. I did not order any of that stuff (M34 I think it said). Is it possible to prep them w/o that solution or will I have to get it?

2. I noticed earlier Nick, you said you've had pads in good shape for years. What do you do with them after you're done? Wash them with hose, washer...sink? I was expecting documentation that told you all that, but it was not in the little packets.

3. My G110 makes like a rattle noise when run on even the slower settings without the pad on. When the pad is on, it is still there and when put on a surface it seems to go away. I know it says not to do that, but I just wanted to be sure that the reason for the rattle is normal. I could not resist just plugging it in and turning it on at first.

4. M105 vs M205 - I was looking at them and it seems it (M105) would be dangerous if I were to go by the little bar on the side of it and being ultra cutting and all. Does it make more sense to start off with the M205 or is the M105 safe enough? My starter car is my daily that is not THAT important - as long as there is paint protecting the metal I'm not too picky on learning.

5. I remember asking earlier if you can get away with JUST doing the M105. Nick had mentioned that it depends on certain things. Are those things somewhat obvious? Or should one assume that the M205 will need to be applied by default and/or until experience shows the way?

Sorry for all the questions.

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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 06:43 AM
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Here are my new questions...

1. The pad say to have some other solution to prep them for use. I did not order any of that stuff (M34 I think it said). Is it possible to prep them w/o that solution or will I have to get it? Use the product itself to prime the pad. Apply a small bead of product to the pad, then work it in with your hand. You want product on the entire surface of the pad, but do not completely saturate the pad. What your goal is, is to not have a dry pad touching the paint surface. You don't need M34, just use the product you're using(M105 or M205), and you'll be fine.

2. I noticed earlier Nick, you said you've had pads in good shape for years. What do you do with them after you're done? Wash them with hose, washer...sink? I was expecting documentation that told you all that, but it was not in the little packets. I have a pad washer, but those are expensive, and not feasable for someone like yourself. Get some Dawn(the foaming pump), and a little scrub brush(like the ones you would use to clean fruit). With warm/hot water, scrub the Dawm into the pad with the brush, and them rinse. Repeat until the pad is clean. Lay it out in the sun to dry. Just make sure you rinse it well, do not leave any soap in the pad.

3. My G110 makes like a rattle noise when run on even the slower settings without the pad on. When the pad is on, it is still there and when put on a surface it seems to go away. I know it says not to do that, but I just wanted to be sure that the reason for the rattle is normal. I could not resist just plugging it in and turning it on at first. The rattle noise is normal. It's the plastic case at the front/top of the machine thats rattling. On the machine, you will see 2 bolt holes. Run up to Lowes, and get a couple of bolts for those holes. Tighten, and the rattles will stop.

4. M105 vs M205 - I was looking at them and it seems it (M105) would be dangerous if I were to go by the little bar on the side of it and being ultra cutting and all. Does it make more sense to start off with the M205 or is the M105 safe enough? My starter car is my daily that is not THAT important - as long as there is paint protecting the metal I'm not too picky on learning. Which product works best will depend on how hard your paint is, and how bad off your paint is(severity of scratches). Always start off with the least aggressive product(M205). Use M205 and the yellow pad, work it in really good, then wipe the residue away and see whats left behind. If it's good, carry on, if not, you may need to step up to M105 and the yellow pad. M105 is very safe on the DA. Do not be scared.

5. I remember asking earlier if you can get away with JUST doing the M105. Nick had mentioned that it depends on certain things. Are those things somewhat obvious? Or should one assume that the M205 will need to be applied by default and/or until experience shows the way? Nothing is obvious until you start working on the paint. You won't know how M105 will leave the finish until you try it out. It could very possibly, leave the finish perfect for you, and you wouldn't need the M205 at all. But it may leave the finish in "so so" condition, and you'll need to follow up with M205 to finish it off. Just play with the different products and pads until you get a feel for what you're doing. Do a small 2'x2' test spot, and figure out a plan working that spot. Once you get something figured out, just duplicate it over the entire vehicle.


I really think it would be in your best intrest to grap your stuff and come by the house. I think I can have you going within an hour, and you'll be ready to tackle your car. It's extremely hard to teach someone over the net like this. Would be much quicker, and you would get so much more out of it, if you came by the house for a little 1 on 1 lesson.

Nick
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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 08:52 AM
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I ordered the kit, too. Should come in this week.

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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
duh...duh....duh
 
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Bitch is heavier then you might think. Which is good I guess.

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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
duh...duh....duh
 
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So I had originally planned to stop by Nick's and learn a bit, but my schedule just did not allow it and I ended up not even getting outside until 11 this morning. Also, I realize that I could be taught everything correctly and still do it "my way" just to see. So I wanted to get some time under my best so I could better appreciate the advice.

Things I learned.

1. When they suggest not to start the device unless the pad is on the car, listen.
2. When they suggest not to lift it off the car until stopped, listen.
3. Less is more in regards to the product.
4. Don't expect superior results the first time. Those tiny lines that Nick nukes, are still there using a Meg yellow pad and M105. Debating if it was my application that was wrong or pad or both.
5. Yeah, go ahead and tape off molding.
6. Definetly do like I did and use your daily/beater to test on.
7. Need a safe place to set it down when wiping off.
8. Regardless of how many youtube videos you watched, you still don't know that much about this stuff. No! You don't. Stop it. Really, you don't know that much.
9. One thing to support 8, is that in the videos a lot of times they put the product on the pad and then distribute it. I found that doing that greated a big gob (even trying to spread on "1") and then it was a PITA to remove. I put dabs throughout the panel I'm working on and that seemed easiest to spread thinly.

I will say it was worth the buy though, even though it took my 3 times longer doing the polish/wax with the tool. I think the results are much better then by hand. Also, I had a specific part that was dull. In the reflection my fluorescent light only showed one blurred light. (2 bulbs in it) I worked on it a little extra for 5-10 minutes and was able to get it to reflect 2 bulbs pretty easily. Not a mirror finish, but an definite improvement.

I think the 2 things I could do short term for vast improvement is to actually go over and take some tips from Nick and also use a smaller pad. The ones in that kit were 7" and I could easily see a 4 or 5 inch pad working just fine. (assuming they all attach the same way)

The pad cleaning tips worked great Nick, thank you.

Anyway, today was my daily Cobalt. It gave me the confidence to go ahead and tackle my Mustang tomorrow. I don't see how you can make anything worst with the tool.

I will also say that I can see where the extra oomph can be handy.

My '03 Sold.
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