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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
Lifer
 
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Headlight Restoration

Here are some shots of my headlight restoration. I think it turned out *ok*, could have been better. My bro was extremely pleased, so I am glad he hab a good B-day. Whatcha' think Nick?

BEFORE


AFTER

NO NO NO, it should be DFWLS1's, CUMMINS, C6 VETTES.net
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 09:10 PM
Lifer
 
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What'd you use? I use to do the headlight resto kits for a couple of places I worked and they turned out pretty nice when I took my time. I only got paid a 1/2 hour to do it though so I bitched the whole time I was doing it.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 11:49 AM
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For mine I used Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a speedball. Rub it on there with a cloth let it sit for a few then speedball it off. It worked wonders.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWClutch
For mine I used Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a speedball. Rub it on there with a cloth let it sit for a few then speedball it off. It worked wonders.

How long has it been since you did this? How bad were the lens when you did this? Does it still look good today?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 11:56 AM
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I know the kits at NTB are magical

WRECK 'EM TECH!!!!!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 915.0GT
I know the kits at NTB are magical


But do they last? Thats what I'm trying to figure out.

Think of it this way, if you're just introducing oils into the dried out lens(like the above method with mag and aluminum polish), then are you really curing your problem?

Only way that has ever worked for me and lasted, is to sand the infected area, removing the damage. Then buffing the sanding scratches out.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
But do they last? Thats what I'm trying to figure out.

Think of it this way, if you're just introducing oils into the dried out lens(like the above method with mag and aluminum polish), then are you really curing your problem?

Only way that has ever worked for me and lasted, is to sand the infected area, removing the damage. Then buffing the sanding scratches out.
thats whats in the kit they sell and is how they do it there, they sand the whole lens and then re-apply a new finish. So it lasts and looks good

WRECK 'EM TECH!!!!!
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-Built & Sprayed 306
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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I sanded these ones. I am going to get them coated, so hopefully they will not oxidize, or yellow again. I used 1500, then 2000. I am to chicken to use 1000

Then use Turtle Wax polishing compound on a rotary with an old pad.

Then Meguiars Plastix, on another old pad, via rotary.

This process has always worked. If you just put chemicals on them, (i.e. plastix alone, or other polishes) you are not *removing the scratches.

Just thought I would help some people out. I have seen a lot of stangs with nasty hazed lights, especially 99-04.

NO NO NO, it should be DFWLS1's, CUMMINS, C6 VETTES.net
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
How long has it been since you did this? How bad were the lens when you did this? Does it still look good today?

Did it on my Lightning that I sold and a buddies Civic. I had the car about a year and it still looked great and it was a BIG difference in change. His car still looks fine too. I heard it worked because of the abrasive compound in it. When you rub it on you rub it pretty hard and for a while till it makes a pretty good looking haze then use the speedball to get it off. I doubt it's the best way to do it but it seemed to work.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 06:02 PM
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The finish that you apply after wet sanding is like a clear lacquer. I've done some that looked terrible, the light that made it through the lens was very dim, and after I was done they looked brand new.
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