Best method of making faded/oxidized paint look new again - DFWstangs Forums
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Red face Best method of making faded/oxidized paint look new again

I'd like to make my 99 Z28's faded/oxidized paint look good again. I've got an electric buffer that I've never used. Any suggestions on product and method? I'm not very detail savvy, I'm doing good just to wash my cars inside and out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 01:06 PM
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COMPLETE VEHICLE RECONDITIONING

This service is for vehicles requiring some form of reconditioning to restore them to a well protected like new appearance.


Interior -

Our interior services completely rejuvenate your interior. This service ranges from the carpet, floor mats, and seats being spot cleaned, to thoroughly shampooing with a powerful hot water extractor that not only melts away stains and eliminates odors, but extracts (rinses) the dirt away. Leather seats and other leather surfaces are cleaned and conditioned to maintain their look and texture. All plastic and vinyl is thoroughly cleaned, then appropriately dressed to prevent cracking and fading. The dash is cleaned paying special attention to cleaning out all of the recessed areas of dust and grime. Trunk is thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed. The result is a spotless, fresh interior that looks and smells new.

Exterior -

This service restores a neglected and / or damaged paint finish to a smooth, durable, brilliant gloss. This is the service our name and reputation is built on.

Above surface contaminants such as environmental fallout, tree sap, and bonded dirt are safely removed. Below-surface damage such as swirl marks, scratches, oxidation, and stains/blemishes are addressed and corrected. Once the paint is “deep cleaned,” we condition the paint with a polish that will restore a deep dramatic brilliant shine. After the paint looks perfect, we apply a long lasting protective coating to preserve the paint. This is a very specialized service and usually requires "buffing" and in some extreme cases may also include "color sanding". The result is a finish that looks absolutely exceptional and one that is well protected from the sun and other damaging effects of daily use.

Rates for reconditioning a vehicle are determined by the type, size and condition of the vehicle and by the amount of the work required to recondition it. We grade the difficulty of the interior and exterior separately into three levels of work, light, medium, and heavy.


We recondition most vehicles from about $240 to $600
Show, specialty and/or exotic vehicles can be priced higher.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 01:12 PM
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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I ain't made of money!!
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 01:35 PM
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I ain't made of money!!
but it would be an investment.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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but it would be an investment.
Yeah but I need to keep the costs down on this car. If you know anyone that's looking for a good and cheap F body let me know.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 02:11 PM
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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What are you rolling your eyes at?
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buick355
I'd like to make my 99 Z28's faded/oxidized paint look good again. I've got an electric buffer that I've never used. Any suggestions on product and method? I'm not very detail savvy, I'm doing good just to wash my cars inside and out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

What type of buffer? Is it a knock off from Wal-Mart, or is it a rotary/DA?

NO NO NO, it should be DFWLS1's, CUMMINS, C6 VETTES.net
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 04:03 PM
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If it's the cheap walmart syle buffer, it won't fix your paint. It just doesn't have enough juice You'll need to bump up to a Porter Cable DA which will run you about $150.

Nick
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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It's a Simoniz buffer kit so probably a cheap one. I got it for Christmas a few years ago and have never used it
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buick355
It's a Simoniz buffer kit so probably a cheap one. I got it for Christmas a few years ago and have never used it
Doing a proper buffing, polishing on a clear coat is not something you can just whip out.

It's kind of like running the 1/8 mile. Anyone can drive in a straight line, but you need skill to make a good run. The same principal applies with paint work.

If you want to start on this skill, a rotary would be the best investment you can get, especially when dealing with oxidation.

And if you do start with this, get advice from Nick. He is a great guy to work with. Get an old hood or body panel to use as a test panel. The first time you use a rotary, you screw it up. Ask Nick how my 89 looked when I started on it....

Good Luck!

NO NO NO, it should be DFWLS1's, CUMMINS, C6 VETTES.net
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buick355
Yeah but I need to keep the costs down on this car. If you know anyone that's looking for a good and cheap F body let me know.
They are good for buffing, but for polishing you need something that can cut into the paint with a little more ferocity, like Nick said the Porter Cable 7424 is the best DA for the money in my opinion. But honestly, after you buy a DA, expensive cutting compounds, expensive polishing compounds, a sleeve of sandpaper, you're going to be well over the price it would be to have Nick take care of it for you, and I guarantee you it will turn out better.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buick355
I'd like to make my 99 Z28's faded/oxidized paint look good again. I've got an electric buffer that I've never used. Any suggestions on product and method? I'm not very detail savvy, I'm doing good just to wash my cars inside and out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

If I were doing the job, my procedure would be 3m PI II LCC yellow pad >> Mernzerna SIP LCC Orange pad>> TC SC LCC white pad >> TC Sealant LCC blue pad.

This process netted me near perfect results on a black dodge ram i spent all day on.

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 5.0_CJ
They are good for buffing, but for polishing you need something that can cut into the paint with a little more ferocity, like Nick said the Porter Cable 7424 is the best DA for the money in my opinion. But honestly, after you buy a DA, expensive cutting compounds, expensive polishing compounds, a sleeve of sandpaper, you're going to be well over the price it would be to have Nick take care of it for you, and I guarantee you it will turn out better.
Yeah I think I'm gonna go the Nick route. Detailing>me.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 07:47 PM
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i have always used kit car wax its cheap and good. I just used it on my black 95 cobra that was badly faded. I bought a used d/a black and decker that I use and it works great pics of the car. I have used just about everything over the years. I maybe able to give you some pointers. But Id have to see it.
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