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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
Lifer
 
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orange peel paint

just bought a new car and like all the others it has that paint that looks like an orange peel. Just wondering what is involved it getting it to look more like smooth glass, i think its just wetsanding right? and what kind of cost would be involved its a small car so less to do but any ballpark figures?

LKQ GRUNT....
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 09:55 PM
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..before you go and do that, you need to know, orange peel hides slight imperfections in the paint. rock chips, small scratches etc are much less obvious in a paint job with orange peel than without.

Now with that in mind, its going to cost you a fair amount of $$$, and take a good bit of time. (I hate dealing with cars, so I'll let someone else price it for you, because my cost would be high as hell)
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 11:00 PM
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New cars have a relatively thin clear from production. You may be able to sand the car and compound and polish it back out and get a great looking paint....... but it will not last very long.
When you see cars and trucks getting a new "show quality" paint job and are sanded and polished smooth as glass, its because the painter sprayed the clear on heavy enough to take it down safely when sanding while leaving enough clear on there to not only look great, but last a long time.

In short, just deal with it. Or get your new car repainted.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 07:49 AM
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I couldn't agree more with DatDude. Your factory clear is very thin, and not enough material to safely wetsand and buff.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 01:34 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
I couldn't agree more with DatDude. Your factory clear is very thin, and not enough material to safely wetsand and buff.
not true... Ive done this before, I have removed orange peel from a car that had a factory paint job. It's more safe if you have a meter that tells you how much clear you are working with. But majority of the time if you are careful you can do it without sanding through the clearcoat..
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 01:38 PM
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Wet sanding and buffing is a pain in the ass and its going to cost you some $$$$

I cant love orange peel enough, If you have ever done the whole wet sand and buff, you will learn to love orange peel too!
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 01:42 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HECDOGGIE
Wet sanding and buffing is a pain in the ass and its going to cost you some $$$$

I cant love orange peel enough, If you have ever done the whole wet sand and buff, you will learn to love orange peel too!
I've charged $500 to do a complete job like that, it takes an entire day to do .

thats why most ppl will clear bra (speed sheild) the front end of the car, down the rocker models, and lower rear bumper.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notchedstang
not true... Ive done this before, I have removed orange peel from a car that had a factory paint job. It's more safe if you have a meter that tells you how much clear you are working with. But majority of the time if you are careful you can do it without sanding through the clearcoat..
keyword

**SKAGG NASTY** Just another 9 second street car.


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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 01:45 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Txstang1
keyword
honestly ive only had it happen to me once, just because the clear/paint on the car was 18+ yrs old! *knock on wood* but it happens it just a risk you are willing to take. if something like that happens I will paint it!
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notchedstang
honestly ive only had it happen to me once, just because the clear/paint on the car was 18+ yrs old! *knock on wood* but it happens it just a risk you are willing to take. if something like that happens I will paint it!


Where do you work?
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 02:01 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
Where do you work?
I work for myself.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notchedstang
honestly ive only had it happen to me once, just because the clear/paint on the car was 18+ yrs old! *knock on wood* but it happens it just a risk you are willing to take. if something like that happens I will paint it!
I hear ya man. I have never been willing to risk it though, cause I would be beyond pissed at myself if I had to repaint it.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 02:14 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txstang1
I hear ya man. I have never been willing to risk it though, cause I would be beyond pissed at myself if I had to repaint it.
You can even burn the clear using a buffer, for some reason alot of ppl want to try to get a surface strach out with a buffer sometimes it wont fully remove without alittle bit of sanding in that area. depending the detph of the scratch..
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
Lifer
 
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well thanks for the respones i guess ill just deal with the orange peel until i decide to repaint the whole thing, since it aint broke i wont fix it....

LKQ GRUNT....
current daily -
2000 GT
slow party of one!
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 09:55 PM
 
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still gonna have orange peal if you repaint the car. orange peal comes from the way the clear gun sprays
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
Lifer
 
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yeah but then ill just have them lay the clear on heavy and have them wetsand during the process to take it out...

LKQ GRUNT....
current daily -
2000 GT
slow party of one!
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 08:55 AM
 
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you can prevent orange peel, but in most cases ppl dont want to go through the trouble of doing it.. for some it's just easier to just sand it all out. but when i paint a car i like to get hardly no orange peel so then i wont have to spend a day sanding it all out..

Nozzle Size - Ususally a smaller nozzle will help

Insufficient air pressure/volume - Adjust the atomization air pressure to the minimum setting needed to produce a fine spray

Viscosity of coating - Thin the finish, as needed, to achieve the proper viscosity. Properly thinned, the finish should atomize into tiny droplets that flow out and level

Fluid flow - Adjust the fluid flow to get the best atomization at the current air settings

Spray gun distance/speed - Maintain the recommended distance from the spray surface. Depending on the spray gun and settings, a constant distance in the range 6" - 10" inches is generally best

Envirnomental conditions - In hot weather, the finish can dry before flowing out. Use a slower evaporating thinner (retarder).
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