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post #1 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Waxing

How often do you guys put wax on? I usually only do it once a year right before the winter, but this finish on the new Mustangs sucks. Im thinking Im gonna have to do it again. Of course I only used one coat. With my Acura thats all I needed and it kept good the whole year though.

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post #2 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 03:40 PM
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i wax my back every other month.

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post #3 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELVIS
i wax my back every other month.

god bless.
and I'm sure your wife thanks you for it....

I wax my car twice a year. I know a dude that washed and waxed his vette every week for the first month he had it, so I guess it's really whatever you think it needs.
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post #4 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 04:40 PM
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It's different on each vehicle depending on if it's a daily driver, what kind of elements it's expossed to, what type of wax your using, etc...If it's a garage queen, then obviously it doesn't need it as much.
But to be honest, there isn't a wax out there that truely last for as long as you guys are going. 3 months would be the max.


I like to wax my truck every 3-6 weeks. But I'm anal as hell about my stuff

Last edited by Nick Chapman; 11-25-2006 at 05:27 PM.
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post #5 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
It's different on each vehicle depending on if it's a daily driver, what kind of elements it's expossed to, what type of wax your using, etc...If it's a garage queen, then obviously it doesn't need it as much.
But to be honest, there isn't a wax out there that truely last for as long as you guys are going. 3 months would be the max.


I like to wax my truck every 3-6 weeks. But I'm anal as hell about my stuff
really? damn. Thanks for the info. I guess I will have to do it again. Thing takes me like 5 hours. I really need a buffer.

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post #6 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELVIS
i wax my back every other month.

god bless.
uhhh ever other month?? lol, i wax mine about every month or every other week... is that bad? lol... i drive a truck though, and its alllllways parked out in the sun too. i use that wax as you dry stuff by ArmorAll every week after i clean it and then Meguires gold class wax every few weeks...
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post #7 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:06 PM
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I wax my car everytime i wash it. Which is about every week or other week.

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post #8 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:11 PM
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What kind of wax are you using?

"The problem with doing nothing is you never know when your finished."
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post #9 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:13 PM
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Meguiars - Gold Class
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post #10 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:42 PM
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I do mine every 4 months. But, at the same time, I wash it with dish soap first, then clay it, then wash it again with dish soap to get the clay off, then wax it with Maguire's NXT Tech Wax, then wash it with Maguire's Gold Class car soap. The whole thing takes about 5 hours, but once every four months isn't bad. It keeps my paint purty.

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post #11 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:48 PM
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Holy shat, your process has more steps then the "Expensive car wash" video.
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post #12 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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I really should clay it. I have traces of railroad dust in the paint. I use Turtle wax to wax it and it worked like a mirror on my Acura, so I love the stuff. I guess the next time i do it I will clay and wax it.

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post #13 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90StangLX5.0
I do mine every 4 months. But, at the same time, I wash it with dish soap first, then clay it, then wash it again with dish soap to get the clay off, then wax it with Maguire's NXT Tech Wax, then wash it with Maguire's Gold Class car soap. The whole thing takes about 5 hours, but once every four months isn't bad. It keeps my paint purty.

DO NOT USE DISH SOAP!!!

It's important to use a car wash solution that is specifically formulated for the unique chemistry used to make modern clear coats. Above all, avoid using common dish washing detergents because these products are extremely harsh and tend to dull the finish down with each use. Dish soaps are also hard on other materials and components such as rubber, vinyl and plastics. Remember, when you wash your car with dish soap everything is subjected to the dulling and drying effects high alkaline soaps cause to your vehicle.

Wash it using a good car shampoo, then clay it. If your having to wash your car after you clay it, then your not wiping off your lubricant in time before it dries. You do not need to wash after clay. Instead, after you clay, use a good paint cleaner, then follow up with your polish and wax of your choice.

Just hearing dish soap on a car makes me cringe!!
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post #14 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 10:15 PM
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Actually using a degreaser soap such as Dawn or another type dishwashing soap is OK, all it does is strip away all of the old wax, silicone, armoral, tar, tree sap and road grime. Zaino actually requires this in their 5 step process. Zaino is probably the only paint protectant that lasts over a year and gives clarity like no other. There have been tests done and and I have conducted my own and Zaino is the best for clarity and longetivity...'H'
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post #15 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone like the old skool Zymol?

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post #16 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD06
Anyone like the old skool Zymol?
If I remeber correctly the Zymol and the the high dollar brand of Zymol-NSX $150.00 for 5oz. actually came in 2nd and 3rd to Zaino followed by Meguires Gold and Turltewax came in 5th...'H'

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post #17 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 10:58 PM
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I use the turtlewax spray wax every time I wash my truck. It's part of my drying process. After squeegeeing the body, what little water is left is wiped dry using a microfiber towel and spritzes of the spray wax. It works great for in between real wax jobs and helps eliminate water spots on dark vehicles when you dry it this way. I used a clay bar for the first time after last wash and was amazed at the dirt it picked up.
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post #18 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:03 PM
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Someone told me once not to use anything that is petroleum based product....something about the petroleum aspect does not do well for the paint/clear coat.

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post #19 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillystang
I use the turtlewax spray wax every time I wash my truck. It's part of my drying process. After squeegeeing the body, what little water is left is wiped dry using a microfiber towel and spritzes of the spray wax. It works great for in between real wax jobs and helps eliminate water spots on dark vehicles when you dry it this way. I used a clay bar for the first time after last wash and was amazed at the dirt it picked up.
yeah clay bars are amazing. On my previous Acura I had parked outside at my old apt complex and apparently they were repainting. It had spray over ALL over my entire car. The whole car felt like sandpaper. I used Clay Magic and then my normal Turtle Wax to wax it and it felt better than new.

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post #20 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
DO NOT USE DISH SOAP!!!

It's important to use a car wash solution that is specifically formulated for the unique chemistry used to make modern clear coats. Above all, avoid using common dish washing detergents because these products are extremely harsh and tend to dull the finish down with each use. Dish soaps are also hard on other materials and components such as rubber, vinyl and plastics. Remember, when you wash your car with dish soap everything is subjected to the dulling and drying effects high alkaline soaps cause to your vehicle.

Wash it using a good car shampoo, then clay it. If your having to wash your car after you clay it, then your not wiping off your lubricant in time before it dries. You do not need to wash after clay. Instead, after you clay, use a good paint cleaner, then follow up with your polish and wax of your choice.

Just hearing dish soap on a car makes me cringe!!
It can go either way with dish soap. I do it particularly to pull shit off the paint that car soap cannot get, but I don't let the soap sit and I only do one area of the car at a time when I wash.

I detailed cars for a Ford dealer in Peoria, AZ for two years and my boss was an old school rat rod guy who owned his own paint booth and has been using the method I use for ages.

I wash the car after I clay. That's the way I do it. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it.

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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BAD06
yeah clay bars are amazing. On my previous Acura I had parked outside at my old apt complex and apparently they were repainting. It had spray over ALL over my entire car. The whole car felt like sandpaper. I used Clay Magic and then my normal Turtle Wax to wax it and it felt better than new.
Clay bars are magical. The more often you do it, the easier and deeper your paint looks. The Mother's clay bar is pretty good and smells like cinnamon (sp?). But, the Mag's clay bar is more effective.

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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 06:52 AM
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A $20 bottle of Zaino works for me. I didn't follow the entire $80 Zaino kit thing. I just bought the wax and used it like regular wax. No pre-wax. No pre-pre-wax. Nothing. Just wash the car and Zaino it. It still came out so much better than Turtle Wax or NXT.

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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 07:24 AM
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Deterioration of paint is usually caused by the forces of oxidation, or reduction. Primarily deterioration comes from exposure to outdoor environments such as inclement weather, or warm temperatures and direct sunlight. Washing with high alkaline detergent soaps accelerate this deterioration by stripping any wax protection off the surface and by attacking and drying out the resins.
I am a firm believer that dish soap WILL dry everything out, and is very bad for your paints finish and rubber and platic parts. But, if thats what works for you, then go for it. If there is even a chance that something is bad for my paints finsh, it's not touching my truck!

And I never said that washing your car after claying would hurt anything. It's just an unnessecary step. Follow up your clay with a good paint cleaner, and the results will be so much greater.
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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 08:29 AM
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Zaino master checking in Oh and yes I use dawn dish soap!!

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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 09:12 AM
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Dawn is great to strip excessive wax off of the car before applying a new coat. The problem is that folks use a harsh product for cleaning, but don't protect it afterwards.

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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 36D-Girl
Zaino master checking in Oh and yes I use dawn dish soap!!

Lyn


Do a search on Yahoo or Google for "washing cars with dish soap", and tell me how many links com up that confirm using dish soap is ok, or safe for your paints surface. Your not going to find anything that tells you it's ok other than Zaino. That tells me something right there.
Just because Zaino says dish soap is alright, doesn't make it so. As far as I can tell, they are the only ones that make this statement. I have never heard of any other company stating that you should use dish soap, in fact, they all tell you to STAY AWAY from it.

I mean heck, Zaino even tells you to stay away from microfiber towels! Microfiber towels are one of the safer things to put on your paints finish!
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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 11:29 AM
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I agree with your comments Nick, it is not good to use ANY degreaser on your car and not come back and wax it to protect the finish. It will not harm the paint but it will strip away any protectant (wax). Your cars finish is what protects the metal from corrosion, paint is just that, a layer of paint that protects the metal. Wax extends the life of your paint (protectant), especially if your car sits outside for long periods of time. Zaino only reccomends that you strip the old wax from your car using Dawn or any other dishwashing liquid so that when you apply Zaino you start with a wax free surface, you only have to do this one time. Hot water also strips ANY wax from your car (I know I have tried this on MADMEX's Roush and HOT water striiped away his Zaino, warm water is OK, but HOT is a no-no.) Also ANY type of cotton towel is going to leave fine scratches, in reality ANY type of chamois or synthetic type towel is going to leave fine scratches, thats just the way it is. Anytime we paint something as soon as we wash and wipe there are micro scratches, Meguires #7 or Zaino#5 will hide these micro scratches after a good wax job...'Henry

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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 11:37 AM
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So, question for you guys and gals that use dishwashing liquid to wash your cars. Do you treat your rubber and plastic parts with a good conditioner after your done, or do you leave them alone? This includes any rubber door seals and rubber window seals.


I'm sorry Henry. I know you know your shit about automotive paint. But I just can not agree with you on this one. No disrespect.
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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Any tips on getting rid of railroad dust thats in the paint?

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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BAD06
Any tips on getting rid of railroad dust thats in the paint?

My recomendation is to clay it then follow up with a dedicated paint cleaner, then polish and wax.
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post #31 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BAD06
Any tips on getting rid of railroad dust thats in the paint?
clay bar is the big thing there... try that and it should be better. if its really bad you might need to do it twice to get all the shit off
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post #32 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
My recomendation is to clay it then follow up with a dedicated paint cleaner, then polish and wax.
Cool. Thanks! Ill have to try that. Its just small traces, but you can feel it and see it.

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post #33 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 12:24 PM
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Claying cleans the bonded contaminants above the surface. A paint cleaner will clean the contaminants below the surface.
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post #34 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 12:28 PM
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I see Teal stayed away from this thread.
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post #35 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 01:32 PM
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i use ibiz products. a friend of mine is a dealer and hooked me up.

got their car wash, waterless wax, wax, interior sheen, wheel, tire stuff.. i just havent used it since i sold my cobra.
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post #36 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
I'm sorry Henry. I know you know your shit about automotive paint. But I just can not agree with you on this one. No disrespect.
None taken bro I actually agree with you Nick, theres no need to wash your car with ANY type of dishwashing liquid and your absolutly right, they will dry out seals, weatherstripping and rubberized exterior trim. Zaino as far as I know is the only Mfg. that reccomnends using dawn to de-wax/de-grease your car before appling Zaino. I reccomend just using a low phosphate soap and most auto parts stores have this type of car wash soap (thats why they don't foam/bubble up as much) Waxing your car with ANY wax with petroleum distilliates will harm your cars finish by stripping away the actual paint finish, especially single stage paints. They are not as harmful to clear coated paint jobs but in the long run they hurt more than help, of course this only applies to people who wax their cars with these products on a weekly basis. That is another reason I use Zaino it has no harmful distilliates...'Henry

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Cupping the bawls always helps with the sensation, Good rule of thumb is to tell the gal to rub the balls any chance/angle she gets.
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post #37 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 03:22 PM
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This is the most action this forum has seen in a long time

Just a note for you Zainoheads out there. If you are following Sal´s advice and washing with dish soap before you use his product on your car. Make sure you do what he forgot to tell you, treat your rubber seals with a good conditioner!
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post #38 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
Make sure you do what he forgot to tell you, treat your rubber seals with a good conditioner!
True dat

I've talked to Sal a few years ago and we had a very good conversation about paint protectants. I've always been a Meguires guy, I used it in my shop exclusevley. I have since switched over to 3-M compound/polishing products (as well as all sandpapers) and only use Zaino for any type of waxing. Trust me I don't push anything but, Zaino IMHO is the best product for paint protection out there, not to mention the price. I'm not cheap by any means and some good high dollar pure carnuba gives me wood but, since I have switched to Zaino I have not looked back.
To be fair Zaino, they only require you to degrease your car once before you apply #1 & # 2, after that you only wash your car regular and apply #2 as as often as you like and some #5 on top of that for that swirl free car show finish...'H'
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post #39 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 04:18 PM
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Z-5 PRO delivers:
• Unbelievable levels of shine, gloss, depth, clarity, and reflectivity
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• Improved ease of use - wipe on, wipe off
• No dust, no staining, no streaking
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Lets get the Zaino vs everybody else thing going
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post #40 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
Deterioration of paint is usually caused by the forces of oxidation, or reduction. Primarily deterioration comes from exposure to outdoor environments such as inclement weather, or warm temperatures and direct sunlight. Washing with high alkaline detergent soaps accelerate this deterioration by stripping any wax protection off the surface and by attacking and drying out the resins.
I am a firm believer that dish soap WILL dry everything out, and is very bad for your paints finish and rubber and platic parts. But, if thats what works for you, then go for it. If there is even a chance that something is bad for my paints finsh, it's not touching my truck!

And I never said that washing your car after claying would hurt anything. It's just an unnessecary step. Follow up your clay with a good paint cleaner, and the results will be so much greater.
Like I said before in my post, I wax my car after I wash it with dish soap so I'm not leaving my paint unprotected.

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post #41 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90StangLX5.0
Like I said before in my post, I wax my car after I wash it with dish soap so I'm not leaving my paint unprotected.

We´re beyond that now I still don´t recomend that you wash your car with dish soap. Nothing you or anyone else says will convince me otherwise. But, if you do it, please make sure you get a good coat or 2 of wax on the paint asap, and follow up with a good conditioner on your rubber trim and seals. That is one thing that is overlooked on 90% of cars.

Lets drop the whole dish soap thing. I think we´ve successfully agreed to disagree
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post #42 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
We´re beyond that now I still don´t recomend that you wash your car with dish soap. Nothing you or anyone else says will convince me otherwise. But, if you do it, please make sure you get a good coat or 2 of wax on the paint asap, and follow up with a good conditioner on your rubber trim and seals. That is one thing that is overlooked on 90% of cars.

Lets drop the whole dish soap thing. I think we´ve successfully agreed to disagree
I was just clarifying. But yes, I do take care of all of the black plastics on my car (chin spoiler, shaker scoop, cowl cover, etc, etc).

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post #43 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90StangLX5.0
I was just clarifying. But yes, I do take care of all of the black plastics on my car (chin spoiler, shaker scoop, cowl cover, etc, etc).

Good deal! Don´t for get those door and window seals!
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post #44 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 05:02 AM
 
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I have wiped down my Alloy GT500 every evening for the last two weeks that I have had it. I have almost 1200 miles on it now and even took a 500 mile trip. I use a liqiud spray cleaner polish( either Mcquires NXT, Liquid Ice, or a new Nanowax). Nothing sticks to it. When I got it home from the dealer on the 16th, a 85 mile drive, I immediately wiped it down and have not changed the routine yet. I use a clean microfiber towel. It only takes about 5 minutes at the most since the paint job is just outstandingand slinker then glass. Yesterday when I took it out I got dumped on by a bird on the hood. When I got home I sprayed the spot with a liquid cleaner( for clear coat finishes), gently wiped it off and hit the spot with the liquid wax. I have never had a car that shines with so much depth. I don't mind wiping it down evertime I take it out, since it keeps it looking showroom new all the time.
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post #45 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsabldvt
I have wiped down my Alloy GT500 every evening for the last two weeks that I have had it. I have almost 1200 miles on it now and even took a 500 mile trip. I use a liqiud spray cleaner polish( either Mcquires NXT, Liquid Ice, or a new Nanowax). Nothing sticks to it. When I got it home from the dealer on the 16th, a 85 mile drive, I immediately wiped it down and have not changed the routine yet. I use a clean microfiber towel. It only takes about 5 minutes at the most since the paint job is just outstandingand slinker then glass. Yesterday when I took it out I got dumped on by a bird on the hood. When I got home I sprayed the spot with a liquid cleaner( for clear coat finishes), gently wiped it off and hit the spot with the liquid wax. I have never had a car that shines with so much depth. I don't mind wiping it down evertime I take it out, since it keeps it looking showroom new all the time.

A proud father!

Keep it up!
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post #46 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 08:06 AM
Cummins > Powerstroke
 
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Location: id rather be cummin than strokin
Posts: 19,068
i need to wax my truck... 22k miles in 10 months and its never been waxed. Its just to damn big to handwax.

2006 Dodge Ram Megacab Cummins
1969 Mustang Coupe
1969 Mustang Mach1
1969 Chevy C10
1966 Mustang Coupe
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post #47 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 08:15 AM
Iamwaxman!
 
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Posts: 13,560
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mpg
i need to wax my truck... 22k miles in 10 months and its never been waxed. Its just to damn big to handwax.

Then call me
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post #48 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 08:28 AM
Cummins > Powerstroke
 
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: id rather be cummin than strokin
Posts: 19,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by n737nc
Then call me
when I get some money I will... Got all my money tied up in a new business we are starting right now. Hopefully in a month or so, we will be out of debt

2006 Dodge Ram Megacab Cummins
1969 Mustang Coupe
1969 Mustang Mach1
1969 Chevy C10
1966 Mustang Coupe
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post #49 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 02:24 PM
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Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 9,335
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mpg
when I get some money I will... Got all my money tied up in a new business we are starting right now. Hopefully in a month or so, we will be out of debt
I'll do it for a steak dinner and some beer.

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post #50 of 56 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 09:52 PM
Gunga galunga
 
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Pimpin the West Side!! (Benbrook)
Posts: 7,544
I like the Z6 on, it really kills the "static" that builds up on plastic parts like bumper covers...

I usually zaino about 4 times a year and claybar once or twice a year.

I love how the paint feels after claybars

"Apres moi le deluge"


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