Removing scratches - DFWstangs Forums
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2005, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Removing scratches

My neigbors kid ran his bicycle in between my wifes car and my stang, put a nice foot long scratch down the passenger door , it does not look like it's down to bare metal, I was able to get most of it out, what do you guy's recommend.
Thanks in advance

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2005, 02:01 PM
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I'd also like to know, my truck was keyed, and in some parts it's down to the metal but in others it isn't any less touch-up painting I have to do would be great!

Would compound waxing the lighter stuff be ok?

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2005, 11:03 PM
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If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, it wont come out completely. Possibly sand it with 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper and machine buff it. If that isn't satifactory, touch it up or have it repainted.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-20-2005, 04:12 PM
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I use eagle one or mothers scratch remover... It work great on scratches that do not go down to the metal... It also polishes as it is removing the scratch.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-23-2005, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDPS STANG RACER
If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, it wont come out completely. Possibly sand it with 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper and machine buff it. If that isn't satifactory, touch it up or have it repainted.

What he said. Ever in the Fort Worth area?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 09:45 PM
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Depends on the scratch. I would have to see it to determine if it would buff out. Lets say it is able to be though. What I use is a high speed buffer with a foam egg crate looking bad on it. I wet sand the area with 1500-2000 grit then use the buffer with some stuff from 3M called Finese It (spelling??). There are other products that will work the same though, I just like the 3M stuff. I then use a swirl remover/ polish by hand or using an orbital. I had never had any swirl marks using the 3M stuff though. You can get the foam pads and 3M stuff at English Color or any other auto body supply store. That's where I go anyway. If you don't have or have not used a high speed buffer you may want to get someone else to do it for you. Just be careful with it. Most body shops would not charge you much to buff it out. May want to stop by a reputable shop and ask. If you were in the Plano area I would be more than glad to take care of it for you but my buffer took a crap on me a while back.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-26-2005, 09:56 AM
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make the neighbors pay to get it repainted

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhtEdge
Depends on the scratch. I would have to see it to determine if it would buff out. Lets say it is able to be though. What I use is a high speed buffer with a foam egg crate looking bad on it. I wet sand the area with 1500-2000 grit then use the buffer with some stuff from 3M called Finese It (spelling??). There are other products that will work the same though, I just like the 3M stuff. I then use a swirl remover/ polish by hand or using an orbital. I had never had any swirl marks using the 3M stuff though. You can get the foam pads and 3M stuff at English Color or any other auto body supply store. That's where I go anyway. If you don't have or have not used a high speed buffer you may want to get someone else to do it for you. Just be careful with it. Most body shops would not charge you much to buff it out. May want to stop by a reputable shop and ask. If you were in the Plano area I would be more than glad to take care of it for you but my buffer took a crap on me a while back.
i agree with what he said, if it is in the paint you can reclear it, if i has gone to metal, make the kid pay for it

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 11:46 PM
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3m finesse-it sucks.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sDun
3m finesse-it sucks.
That's a real informative reply. I guess we all have our own opinions. What do you use then? I have used several products and they all seem to be about the same. I have never had any problem with the 3M stuff. It has always worked great and been super easy to apply/ remove.

Last edited by WhtEdge; 03-30-2005 at 07:26 AM.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 09:01 AM
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The stuff does not cut near as quick as a few of the other products out there. The quickest cutting product us the "pink stuff", synthetic cutting cream, from the Production Car Care truck.(kind of like the tool trucks for mechanics shops except he has all paint shop supplies) His blue finishing cream for the black waffle pad is the best there is. I used the 3m black foam pad pollishing glaze before I found this stuff and there is no compairing the 2. Meguires new Diamond Cut compound is a close second to the pink. It does not cut as fast but is very "clean".

I have tried nearly every product out there over the last 20 years and the finesse it system is an average product, nothing special.

Last edited by sDun; 03-30-2005 at 07:53 PM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-31-2005, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xavren
what do you guy's recommend.
Thanks in advance
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2005, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhtEdge
That's a real informative reply. I guess we all have our own opinions. What do you use then? I have used several products and they all seem to be about the same. I have never had any problem with the 3M stuff. It has always worked great and been super easy to apply/ remove.
All, not trying to high-jack the thread. However, is using this sort of product the dummy proof alternative for those of us not skilled and sanding, buffing and polishing? I have some minor scratches too and am skeered I'll mess it up more if I break out sandpaper and a buffer and stuff. haha

Take care,

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2005, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceyko
All, not trying to high-jack the thread. However, is using this sort of product the dummy proof alternative for those of us not skilled and sanding, buffing and polishing? I have some minor scratches too and am skeered I'll mess it up more if I break out sandpaper and a buffer and stuff. haha

Take care,

You've got a point, if you're not careful, you can screw up. With sandpaper, you can dull the finish and it won't polish out. Use a buffer, you could burn the paint.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2005, 12:12 AM
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If u are not experienced with using sand paper on a good paint job i wouldnt recommend it thats and easy way to make it worse. Now if u know what u are doing thats different. Ive had good luck with scratch X i think meguiars makes it. They sale it at oreilly's.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2005, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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I used some rubbing compound and went back w/some wax it actually looks better, I have a dent in my drivers side rear qtr that I need to fixed I will just have that fixed along w/it.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2005, 02:14 AM
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heres a good read....
www.properautocare.com

I use Tropicare.. no swirls, no webbing... scratches are a bitch on darker color cars/trucks... wetsand at own risk.. it can be touchy.. you do NOT want to sit in 1 spoet or have a creased piece of paper.. good bye paint...

usually on mild scratches.. wet sand 1500,, with a clean wool pad use a mild abrasive at 1200rpm... wipe off... then use the "egg foam" at 1400 with a wax.. then follow up entire section with a polish..

Stinger has a Very affordable line of products at English color..

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