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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Sub is here, Have a Question?

Well my Kicker CompVR 10" Sub came in today. It's the 4ohm per voice coil model, not paying attention I ordered this one instead of the 2ohm model.
Here's my amp Kicker KX350.2 RMS Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo: 175W x 2..RMS Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono: 300W

My question is what is the best way to wire this sub to my amp? I wanted to wire to 4ohm load but with this sub I can't. I currently have it wired to a 2ohm load and brided to mono on my amp. Hits hard and sounds great but I don't feel this amp can handle a 2ohm load like that. I also tried wiring to just one channel of the amp, sounded alot weaker (didn't like that)


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 03:45 PM
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Either run it at 4 ohm stereo (probably less power than the 175 RMS at 2ohm) or find out if your amp is stable at 2ohms bridged. An amp will usually start shutting off if it can't.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Hatton
Either run it at 4 ohm stereo (probably less power than the 175 RMS at 2ohm) or find out if your amp is stable at 2ohms bridged. An amp will usually start shutting off if it can't.
This sub can either be wired to a 2ohm or 8ohm load. My amp already cut earlier when I had it cranked up pretty high

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 03:50 PM
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how s it wired now and what is ur electrical(wires batt etc...)



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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slam
how s it wired now and what is ur electrical(wires batt etc...)

I have it wired to a 2ohm load and to my amp bridged to mono.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjtheman1
I have it wired to a 2ohm load and to my amp bridged to mono.

Well if u have enough power going to the amp u should be ok as long as u dont jam it hard all the time. If u dont, u can burn up ur amp pretty quick. I had an a/b amp that was suppose to only be stable at 4 ohms bridged but had it wired at 2 ohms pushing a 15 and never cut out. jammed it all day. but i also had and extra battery and did a big 3



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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 04:25 PM
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I did the same thing when I bought my first JL sub.. I just ran it off of one channel of my amp to avoid fucking it up (it isn't 2 ohm stable bridged). Not as much sound but I prefered it to buying a new amp.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili
I did the same thing when I bought my first JL sub.. I just ran it off of one channel of my amp to avoid fucking it up (it isn't 2 ohm stable bridged). Not as much sound but I prefered it to buying a new amp.
I'm considering it, my amp says it's 2ohm stable but when I crank it up for awhile it cuts out. Or I might sell his amp and get another one. Or might be better for me to sell this sub and get a 4ohm one

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 12:41 AM
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just run it 8ohm.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjtheman1
I'm considering it, my amp says it's 2ohm stable but when I crank it up for awhile it cuts out. Or I might sell his amp and get another one. Or might be better for me to sell this sub and get a 4ohm one
if it says its stable at 2 ohms then its stable at 2 ohms...

when you say it "cuts out" please explain...

does it go into protection or does the amp just shut off or does the sound just cut out with no change in LED indicators? kinda makes a difference.

ive ran 2 ch kickers @ 2 ohms bridged many times and never ran across any problems.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedleSharp
if it says its stable at 2 ohms then its stable at 2 ohms...

when you say it "cuts out" please explain...

does it go into protection or does the amp just shut off or does the sound just cut out with no change in LED indicators? kinda makes a difference.

ive ran 2 ch kickers @ 2 ohms bridged many times and never ran across any problems.

My amp states it's capable at 2ohm x 2 channel, not bridged to mono. I was bridging a 4ohm amp to a 2ohm sub, when cranked up it would cut off. I never looked at the amp to see if the LED changed.

I now have it wired to one channel instead of mono, been playin with it and it sounds good. Doesn't cut out when cranked up for awhile. I might still get rid of this sub and get the other one so I can wire it to 4ohm.

Thanks to all for input

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-08-2008, 01:56 AM
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just bridge it, and run it 8ohm.


you think you are gonna get more out of one channel at 2ohm, than from a bridge amp at 8ohms?

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-08-2008, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNEAKY
just bridge it, and run it 8ohm.


you think you are gonna get more out of one channel at 2ohm, than from a bridge amp at 8ohms?

good point, I'll try it

thanks

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 12:45 PM
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well?

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNEAKY
just bridge it, and run it 8ohm.


you think you are gonna get more out of one channel at 2ohm, than from a bridge amp at 8ohms?
Won't the amp just put out much less power at 8 ohms?

Based on this, keeping in mind it was found on the web, he would have 175 watts on one channel at 2 ohms (according to his amps specs) and / or 175 watts at 8 ohms bridged.. So there is no difference. Though he could use the free channel to power additional speakers if only running one channel.

Quote:
Referring back to the hypothetical subwoofer installation outlined above, we know that the amplifier in question is rated to deliver 100 watts x 2 into 4 ohms. To find out how much power each channel of this amplifier will deliver into the resulting 8-ohm load, we must solve Equation 2, in which Po is power output, Pr is the amp's rated power, Zr is the impedance the amp's output power is rated at, and Zt is the equivalent-load impedance for each channel:

Equation 2: Calculating Output Power
Po = Pr x (Zr / Zt)

Plugging in the appropriate numbers, the calculation is worked through as follows:

Po = 100 x (4 / 8)
Po = 100 x 0.5
Po = 50 watts

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Last edited by Chili; 05-13-2008 at 07:48 PM.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNEAKY
well?

Haven't had time lately, plan on it this friday.

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