need help fried wire - DFWstangs Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2002, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
PVC Racing
 
musclestang89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: DFW
Posts: 9,779
need help fried wire

Today i was driving down the road and my amps started to cut out, then i notice my amp light on m car came on, so i truned everything off and i had no charge from my alternator. I fried my alternator again, thats right again this is the 2 time i have done it. I'm running a offbrand 1000 watts amp for 2 10's, 120 watts for my mid highs and lows, with a sony e.q, sony head unit. I'm running a 4 guage wire to my distributer box then out to my amps, same thing with the ground. I have a stock alternator. Use to when i had my Kenwood amp pushing my 2 10's, it bump hard with no problem ( but that got stolen ) now when i turn it up my red light comes on on the bass amp, and it won't bump like it did. But when i first install this amp it did just fine bump hard and everything. But one day i took a turn sideways and when it shifted back into 2nd hard my radio cut off. It had yanked out the power wire out of my battery, well i got that fixed but everynow and then when i hit a pot hole the radio would turn off but not as often as before. After all that had haooen thats when it wouldn't bump as hard. I have no idea where my problem is. I was thinking about just ripping everything out. Does anyone have an idea? And sorry for it being so long.

"Less talkie talkie more ping pong"
musclestang89 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2002, 10:15 AM
Extreme Clean!
 
Samhain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Grammar Gestapo
Posts: 4,965
Sounds like you have at least a few bad connections. As far as eating up alternators I would have to ask if your power wire is connected directly to your batt. How are the wires connected behind the radio? This could help me with your questions.
Samhain is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2002, 10:35 PM
Time Served
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Duncanville, Texas
Posts: 667
The first thing I see wrong is that you have a generic amp.

Sounds like you have checked most everything. In extreme cases I have seen where the amp gets so hot (reason why it is cutting off) that it has unsoldered connections in itself. The solder in the amp will melt across traces enough to where when it reaches a certain point it will go into a protection mode (cutoff). This would explain why the amp used to work well for awhile and now it only works sometimes off and on. You should open the amp and see if you notice anything unusual. Believe me if it is what I am talking about you don't have to be a rocket scientist, it will be extremely obvious.

Also,
You stated the power wire came off before.....if it shorted against something, this wold generate enough heat to melt solder. It would only take a split second. I am talking about less time then it takes to blink. On generic amps they normally use a less heat resistant solder (i.e. rockwood, kenford, pyramid, boss, etc.). This would definately be a cause of such an instance you describe.

BTW,
If there is a short in your amp, eventually it would lead to a bad alternator. Because a short tends to draw more current then normal. A lot more current, that is why the amp will go into a "protection mode" or cut out.
z0sense is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2002, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
PVC Racing
 
musclestang89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: DFW
Posts: 9,779
Quote:
Originally posted by z0sense
Also,
You stated the power wire came off before.....if it shorted against something, this wold generate enough heat to melt solder. It would only take a split second. I am talking about less time then it takes to blink. On generic amps they normally use a less heat resistant solder (i.e. rockwood, kenford, pyramid, boss, etc.). This would definately be a cause of such an instance you describe.

But wouldn't the fuse blow and now power could run through. My fuse did not blow. But I am going to open my amp up and see if there is anything weird. Thanks for the info.

"Less talkie talkie more ping pong"
musclestang89 is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2002, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
PVC Racing
 
musclestang89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: DFW
Posts: 9,779
ok, i just open my amp and everything looks fine to me, but hell i don't even know what i'm looking at. What should i do, just buy another amp, hell i spent $250 on this amp, it is called a Momentum, ever heard of it. Whats next I check?

"Less talkie talkie more ping pong"
musclestang89 is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2002, 12:03 AM
Time Served
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Duncanville, Texas
Posts: 667
The fuse would not necessarily blow. I assume you have a 60 amp fuse. It would take ~61 AMPS to blow it. When a wire sparks this will not necessarily generate 60AMPS therefore the fuse is fine. However this could still do enough to fry your amp. Especially a generic amp. BTW, this might not be your prob. The best way to check is to borrow another amp (non generic) from a friend and see if it works fine in your car. You could always use your "highs" amp if that is all that is available. Remember you are just checking to see if the amp is bad, if your "highs amp works your generic is bad. If not then you have another prob. Also when a short, as mentioned earlier is created, I forgot to say that transistors in the amp could be fried! In this case you would not be able to tell for shit what is wrong with the amp! Either way keep me posted and I am sure I can walk you all the way through this!

Remember to be as specific as possible and tell me step by step what you are doing!
z0sense is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2002, 12:05 AM
Time Served
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Duncanville, Texas
Posts: 667
I think we posted at the same time. Read my above post!
z0sense is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2002, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
PVC Racing
 
musclestang89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: DFW
Posts: 9,779
ok, I know when i was running just my high and low amp, i had no problem, i had taken my bass amp out when i went to the track (hell my bow ways around 80lbs). I installed my bass amp back in and it sounded ok, but i couldn't turn it up very much or it would cut out ( the red light would come on on the bass amp). Well i has it in for about 5 days and the other day is when my wire fried again, its the fuse wire to the alternator, it didn't hurt my alternator. The first time it happen was the same kind of problem. What would cause my raido to turn off and on when i hit a bump, i took it down to a place and had it look at, they reinstalled it, and look at every wire to make sure nothing was touching. They also had put a new fuse link on my power wire to my battery. It work fine when i left but thats when it it started not to bump as hard, i would have taken my car back there but they lost the business, i have no idea if they had did something, i was there the whole time, but hell i have no idea what they are doing,, i just know the basic. I can install a amp, radio, speakers, and run everything, but my problem is i can make it look nice, just can't do it.

"Less talkie talkie more ping pong"
musclestang89 is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2002, 12:32 AM
Time Served
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Duncanville, Texas
Posts: 667
you may just need to replace the wire that keeps getting fried! You may want to step up the gauge(or thickness) of the wire. This will not hurt because you are protected by fuses. This will only help. You may be drawing more current then you think. In this case you may exceed the ability of the wire that keeps getting fried!

BTW,
Which wire on the alternator, ground(-) or positive(+). Also you may have a bad alternator. This would cause an extreme loss of power to the system. In otherwords.....you may have enough to charge the battery, but not enough to run the system. This could also cause the amp to cut off because this is called "low volting" the amp!

Step one: Try the other amp as mentioned earlier

If you want to skip this.....(not recommended, but for time's sake)

Step two: Replace the wire that keeps "frying" with larger wire

Step three: Try a new alternator (you can always return it were you bought it)

After these let me know what you did and in what order. Try them one at a time from the easiest to the hardest.
z0sense is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DFWstangs Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome