Originally Posted by MINAZURE60
i didn't pay but $225 for the 1200 watt and $350ish for the 1600 Watt. The 1600 Watt amp is 175RMS at 4ohm load. It runs my 2 small 10" subs and my 4 3way 6x9's. I haven't tweaked it or anything. I just threw it in there one day and haven't had time to go back and get it all hooked up properly. It hits fairly decent. I need to put my cap on it now before anything messes up. I Just don't run it at high levels very often.
The reason you only paid $225 for a Boss 1200 watt amp is that it does not put out anywhere near 1200 watts. Cost on the "1160watt" IQ580.2 is $105. So if that is the amp you have, at $225 they made a 53% profit margin which ROCKS! I wish I could make that kind of profit on a name brand product! Boss, Pyramid, and other similar companies prey on people who want something for nothing. A real 1000 watts RMS amp is going to cost $500-1000 depending upon quality, features, and technology. Cheap car electronics have a very high profit margin because junk is cheap. I refuse to sell such products. I believe you get what you pay for. The best way to get quality product is buy name brand products from real stores from people who know what they are talking about. That way, you will get the best product for your application and it will sound better, last longer, and do what it says it will do.
Many cheap amp manufacturers do not print specs because more specs will allow you to compare it to other amps. Also, anyone who has a word processor can print specs so keep that in mind with shady products.
Tips for buying amps:
CEA2006 specs are good but a little optomistic. A good complete rating will be something like this:
100 watts RMS x2 @ 4 ohm, 12.5V, 20Hz-20kHz
THD at rated power <0.05% THD @ 4 ohm per channel, 20Hz-20kHz
Signal to noise ratio >110dB (CEA specs will be lower like 80) Higher is better.
Frequency response 5Hz-30kHz (+0/-0db) The further the +/- numbers get from zero, the less accurate the amp is.
Any of the above info missing is an opportunity for the manufacturer to mislead you. One spec without the others is meaningless.
1. Look for a power rating at 12.5 volts. Most amps rated at 14.4 volts will see as much as 20% additional power at 14.4V than at 12.5V which would make a 400W RMS amp at 12.5V be 500W RMS at 14.4V. However, 12.5V is a more realistic voltage at the amp when you're driving your car. 14.4V ratings are best case scenario and a car electrical system is not best case scenario.
2. Look for a full range amp to be rated from 20Hz-20kHz which is the approximate range humans can hear. Many amps are rated at 1000Hz (1kHz) because it is easier for the amp to play one tone than a full range signal so the power rating is inflated. For Class D amps (bass only) look for the range to be something like 20Hz-250Hz.
3. Ignore ANY "max" or "peak" numbers. No exceptions.
4. Look for the ohm load that the rating is given. If you're running a 4ch amp on four mid/high type speakers, chances are you'll be using it at 4 ohm stereo. If they rate the amp at 2 ohm, you need to cut that number in half since you won't be running it at 2 ohm.
5. THD numbers are low on most modern equipment but it is best for the THD to be below 1%.
6. Listen to the amp in a car if you can. A high quality low power amp will perform better than a low quality high power amp.
7. Match the amp to the speakers you'll be using or vice versa. If you buy 2-4 ohm woofers, you're going to need an amp that will run 2 ohm mono for the best performance. If you buy DVC woofers and you do not know what you're doing, ask a pro for help. They can help you pick the proper amp or ohm load for your situation.
8. A deal on junk is not a deal.
I'm sure I've left out something. Adam?