sub box design on mustang? - DFWstangs Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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sub box design on mustang?

I want to add 2 10's but was contemplating downfiring them. My last system i built i had 4 12's in a fiberglass box and when i had 2 they always sounded better to me when they were firing back(towards the trunk) i was wondering if anyone has had their subs downfiring and if they liked the sound. I always assumed downfiring was good for truck but never gave much thought to doing it in a car. Thanks.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 01:11 PM
EW
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Height is the only real issue and the mustang does not have much. Down fire filters off too much of the upper bass range for me. YMMV.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 03:44 PM
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Best sound i've heard in a mustang came from firing back towards the tail lights.

My 2 12s fire up and they hit very hard, but doesnt sound as good as if they could fire back IMO.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 03:46 PM
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depending on the car, you're also dealing with not being anywhere near the peak amplitude of whatever frequency you are listening to.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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ya i figured that downfiring would screw with the frequency, my other system had the 4 12's sealed firing foreward and back and they hit pretty hard but sounded terrible, but now I want something that just sounds good. I decided to go with 2 10" Rockford Fosgate T1's. Hopefully I can get enough space for em and still not take too much trunk room. I think for a vented enclosure they require 1.5 cu/ft a piece. Anyone had any experience dynamating their doors? I had to remove one of the door panels from my old car and that was a pain, so i was wondering if it was worth it, cause i know everything will rattle once the subs are in.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 09:53 PM
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doors are easy to do, if the door panels were " a pain" then it doesn't get much easier than that.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneBadWagon
doors are easy to do, if the door panels were " a pain" then it doesn't get much easier than that.
The problem I had with the doors was all the clips that hold it on. Wasn't sure how/and or where to pull to remove the panel. I got it off fine but i'm pretty sure there were a few little clips that didn't make it through the process. I tried it on my older mustang first when i had to replace my miror. Plus i can get someone to dynamat my doors, and trunk (me supplying the dynamat of course) for $85 so i may just do that.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 04:01 PM
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Putting on dynamat isn't complicated, a trained monkey would be very capable of doing it, probably as well as someone who offers to do it for cheap (85$) will do.


clips are cheap, get with it.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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If the subs fired up and the vents (or ports) were facing the rear (or vice versa, vents up etc.) would there be much benefit? This will be my first non-sealed enclosure.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 09:13 PM
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Ideally, the ports and subwoofers are on the same side of the box. Basically, what the port does is turn the rear waves (coming from the back side of the cone inside the box), and and transforms it to the correct phase @ a "tuned" frequency.

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