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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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JL Audio Clean Sweep

Maybe one of you guys who sells JL equipment can help me out a little with understanding this thing. I sent an email to a sales guy at JL to ask if it would work with the stock Mach 460 HU, and he was pretty sure it would.

My Alpine HU was stolen out of my Jeep, and I doubt the stock HU would have been stolen. So if I can use this Clean Sweep thing to get a good signal to my amp instead of replacing the stock HU, I'd like to do it.

Here's what the guy told me.

Quote:
The CleanSweep is your answer. It will give you the auxillary input and it can hook up to ANY factory radio. I dont know the exact architecture of the Mach 460 System but the CleanSweep will be able to integrate into it. More than likely that system is EQd out of the factory head unit. The CleanSweep will correct the EQd curve and boost the output voltage. Its like turning your factory head unit into a high end aftermarket unit.

The CleanSweep needs a full range signal to do its magic. Your best option is to call our technical support department and tell them about your car. They will be able to let you know if you need any additional products to make the CleanSweep work. For example, if there is no full range signal, you have to get a crossed over signal out of the amplifier which requires a summing device.

Tell me where you are located and I will put you in touch with one of our dealers that can get you taken care of.
So does anyone know of how you could combine the high and low frequency signals to get them into this unit? Are they speaker level or low level signals going from the HU to the stock amps?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 08:02 AM
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I have not tried it yet. Page 6 of the manual says "Signals that are crossed over must be summed to full range using appropriate summing devicesprior to being connected to the CL441dsp." "Never attempt to sum signals by connecting different channels together directly!"
So, since the signal coming out of the 01-04 mach is already divided, it may not work.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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EW, do you know anything about the equipment required to sum the signals? I have no idea what's required for something like that.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 08:27 AM
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I am new over here... but it looks like you guys & gals have a great site going...

I had this all typed up(about a 1/2 hour's work) & got logged off & lost it all

So here I go again.. LOL

I am a moderator in the Audio Forum over on the www.nhtoc.com The National Harley Truck Owners Club. Our guys are always asking about this type of install too.. so I put this together:

http://www.nhtoc.net/forum/showthrea...threadid=22427

The short answer to your question is "not really"...

A little about the Mach 460/1000 needs to be said: The system is essentially a 7 channel system. (2) highs in the front, (2) mids in the front, (2) rear speaker channels, & a (1) subwoofer channel (although some have 2 subs its a mono channel). These 7 channels are all crossover controled outputs that are built into the Mach Head unit (HU). Also the Mach HU has acoustic compensation processing specific to the Speakers, amplifiers, & acoustics of the car. Change any one piece (speakers, amps, or the interior) & the processing is out the window. Also the crossover slopes & design leave alot to be deisred. Lastly, all Ford HU's have a very deceptive circuit in them. Its commonly called "Bass Delete" or "Bass Contouring" circuit. As you turn the volume up the bass is incrementally pulled out to save the speakers & Ford having to cover them under warranty. Once you pass about 50%-65% of the volume display you are cutting bass output by 30%+ or more. All of this is BAD for making audio upgrades with the OEM HU.

The Clean Sweep's #1 benefit is that it can digitally process out all the funky acoustic settings from the OEM HU(in your case the Mach 460/1000). Which is a very good thing when you go to aftermarket speakers & amps. the 2 major downsides to the Clean sweep are that it cannot combine multi-channel/crossed over signals into a full range signal. 2nd, there is only (2) front & (2) rear outputs.. no subwoofer out, no subwoofer level control.

Audio Control offers the LC8 (links in the above thread link) has what you want as far as the signal combining feature.It can combine up to 8 channels (you ahve 7 now) into up to 8+ full range outputs. So the combining part is now covered, but you loose the digital acoustic "de-proccessing" of the Clean sweep.

So you can buy BOTH the Clean Sweep & the LC8 & have it all right? Welll not exactly... First off $700 for the 2 pieces is a nice chunk out of your budget. Also, you still have to buy amps & speakers... & you still are limited by the OEM HU... If you had a Mercedes, BMW or Maybach where the oem HU had Navigation screen, controlled the cell phone, the traction control etc... yes the investment is logical. In a Mustang? Even a Mach 1 or Cobra? Not really logical...

Plan B: Several amplifier companies offer amps with direct input of your factory HU @ speaker level (like Jl's Slash Series {300/4 & 500/1 as examples}) & use a great balanced/diferential circuit to cleanly run the amp. So in this case you could simply remove the Mach 460/1000 amps, install say a 300/4 for the door (front) & rear speakers. & a 250/1 or 500/1 for the sub... then upgrade speakers & call it a day. Your HU is still stock & you have good amps & speakers... BUT you are still limited with the stock processing & crossovers... a serious limitation

Ask yourself these questions:

1.) What is lacking in the Mach 460/1000?
Bass?(depth? impact? sheer power?)
Is it lacking clarity/definition? (are the mids muddy or cloudy? are the highs dull?)

2.) What is your budget?

3.) Most important: RIGHT NOW: WHAT CD is in the HU RIGHT NOW... if its rap, cool. if its classic or alternative Rock, sweet. R&B, get down with your bad self... the genre doesn't matter, except it helps deisgn your upgrade. A system for Rockers needs tight, fast punchy bass & quick smooth highs. Rap/R&B needs cone area for deep bass, sharper highs, & lots of amplifier power. Just be honest with yourself.

4.) Security: what is your REAL concern? You mentioned your Jeep HU was stolen... Was it a Cherokee or a Wrangler? A wrangler: your head unit was stolen for drugs... it was an easy, fast target. An enclosed car is far less likely to get stolen. Read this thread... this idea is so easy its sick.. & you get your aftermarket HU...

http://www.nhtoc.net/forum/showthrea...fake+faceplate

if it was a Cherokee... bad luck... the above idea changes that...Just get a basic am/fm Ford Radio (2000-up are all the same size) & follow the instructions in the link...

Let me know if I can help Good luck.

Rob W
MECP Cert. Sales/Install
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 08:29 AM
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No.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 08:35 AM
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http://www.nhtoc.net/forum/showthrea...fake+faceplate
That has been around for at least 15 years if not more. A good security system goes a long way toward discouraging theives as well.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EW
http://www.nhtoc.net/forum/showthrea...fake+faceplate
That has been around for at least 15 years if not more. A good security system goes a long way toward discouraging theives as well.
i've always liked the fake stock radio idea...sure, an alarm is great, but a lot of times, the thieves will break a window and run when the alarm goes off. sure, you get to keep your stereo, but you also get to replace a window... if they look in the window and see a stock radio, they're probably not even going to mess with your vehicle, because a stock radio isn't going to sell like an aftermarket piece. ie; you keep your radio and not have to replace a window. sure, there are going to be those thieves that bump the car and move on if it chirps, but there are plenty that don't check...they just break the window and if the alarm goes off, they bolt.

brad
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 09:03 AM
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EW.... yep actually way back in early 80's when Ford switched to "semi-DIN"we were doing them.... so 23+ years old actually... LOL

might be an old idea, but it still solves 75% of the security issue in general. Like STANG said above...

If you can make the theif think twice about hitting your car you have done all you can do. That's the whole purpose of the LED on any alarm... make them think "doI wanna mess with this?"... There isn't an alarm made to stop a true Professional theif. But then again most car break in's, heck whole car thefts, are done by amatuers... they do think twice... again like STANG said

An alarm, at least with my customers, is the FIRST thing we talk about when doing audio upgrades.

When I used to work for a shop that did LOTS of dealer keyless entry, power lock/window conversions, we used to do "fake alarms" where we just wired a flashing 12v LED to the Iginition switch with a Relay. when the key was off the LED flashed, making it LOOK like an alarm was there... worked all the time, flawlessly... its all aboutmaking them think twice... they usually walk away for an easier target.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 09:16 AM
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I prefer the real thing to the fake out method. I guess something (fake LED) is better than nothing.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002GreyHd150
4.) Security: what is your REAL concern? You mentioned your Jeep HU was stolen... Was it a Cherokee or a Wrangler? A wrangler: your head unit was stolen for drugs... it was an easy, fast target. An enclosed car is far less likely to get stolen. Read this thread... this idea is so easy its sick.. & you get your aftermarket HU...

http://www.nhtoc.net/forum/showthrea...fake+faceplate

if it was a Cherokee... bad luck... the above idea changes that...Just get a basic am/fm Ford Radio (2000-up are all the same size) & follow the instructions in the link...

Let me know if I can help Good luck.

Rob W
My Jeep was a Cherokee. They busted out the stationary window in the rear drivers' side door, reached in and unlocked the door. I had removed the faceplate on it, but I just put it in the center console. They found it. Made me wonder if someone in the apartment complex was watching me to see that I put it in there instead of taking it inside. At that time, I was in a pretty bad area in Garland. I was really glad to move out of that place.

I had the amp mounted in the rear passenger side quarter panel between the metal body and the interior plastic piece. Then, I ran speaker wire from the amp to a pair of binding posts that I mounted in the plastic. They would have had to totally disassemble the interior to pull the amp out, so I've still got it. The sub was easily removable, so that was gone too. Before I sold the Jeep, I took out what was left and replaced the stock HU and speakers. So now, I have an un-used 5-channel Alpine amp and some Inifinity Kappa 6.5" components and 5.25" 2-way coaxials from the rear. I figured I would put those into the stang with some speaker adapter plates I would make out of MDF.

What is my real security concern? Well of course, I don't want anyone breaking into my car or doing anything to it. Now, I have a house and a garage, so that helps me feel a lot better, but I do have to park it in an unattended lot at work, and a buddy of mine had his HU stolen while his truck was sitting in the same lot that I park in. I figured if my HU looks stock, then people are less likely to break into the car to steal the radio.

EW, the thing that I don't like about security systems is that nobody seems to react to a car alarm any more. It goes off, and people are just annoyed by the noise, but they never really look to see where its coming from or what set it off. Do they really deter thieves that much? I understand the relevance of starter disable and security options like that, but that doesn't deter someone from breaking in to steal something in the first place. Yeah, it greatly decreases the chance that your car will be stolen, but they won't know the starter is disabled until they try to start the car.

Another concern is that I probably don't have a huge budget. Really, I was just trying to decide if this thing would work so that I could put it on my Christmas list if it would. I probably wouldn't get it then, as my wife isn't really into putting much money into a car anyway.

Thanks for your input, guys. Its looking like my best option is still probably to just replace the entire system in the car, including the head unit.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 09:22 AM
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hmmm I'm thining its time to edit that intro....

Of course the real thing is prefered... duh.. come on... that wasn't the point...

Rob W

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canoman
My Jeep was a Cherokee. They busted out the stationary window in the rear drivers' side door, reached in and unlocked the door. I had removed the faceplate on it, but I just put it in the center console. They found it. Made me wonder if someone in the apartment complex was watching me to see that I put it in there instead of taking it inside. At that time, I was in a pretty bad area in Garland. I was really glad to move out of that place.

I had the amp mounted in the rear passenger side quarter panel between the metal body and the interior plastic piece. Then, I ran speaker wire from the amp to a pair of binding posts that I mounted in the plastic. They would have had to totally disassemble the interior to pull the amp out, so I've still got it. The sub was easily removable, so that was gone too. Before I sold the Jeep, I took out what was left and replaced the stock HU and speakers. So now, I have an un-used 5-channel Alpine amp and some Inifinity Kappa 6.5" components and 5.25" 2-way coaxials from the rear. I figured I would put those into the stang with some speaker adapter plates I would make out of MDF.

What is my real security concern? Well of course, I don't want anyone breaking into my car or doing anything to it. Now, I have a house and a garage, so that helps me feel a lot better, but I do have to park it in an unattended lot at work, and a buddy of mine had his HU stolen while his truck was sitting in the same lot that I park in. I figured if my HU looks stock, then people are less likely to break into the car to steal the radio.

EW, the thing that I don't like about security systems is that nobody seems to react to a car alarm any more. It goes off, and people are just annoyed by the noise, but they never really look to see where its coming from or what set it off. Do they really deter thieves that much? I understand the relevance of starter disable and security options like that, but that doesn't deter someone from breaking in to steal something in the first place. Yeah, it greatly decreases the chance that your car will be stolen, but they won't know the starter is disabled until they try to start the car.

Another concern is that I probably don't have a huge budget. Really, I was just trying to decide if this thing would work so that I could put it on my Christmas list if it would. I probably wouldn't get it then, as my wife isn't really into putting much money into a car anyway.

Thanks for your input, guys. Its looking like my best option is still probably to just replace the entire system in the car, including the head unit.
Nobody has to be watching you to know that you left the detachable face in the car. Everyone does. Every situation is different but I don't believe that many thieves stick around when the alarm is going off. At least with a basic alarm and glass sensor, the l.e.d. may have deterred them and the alarm would've triggered as soon as they broke the glass. There are now alarms that can page the remote or call your phone when the alarm is triggered. It is just a matter of what you want to spend and what your deductible is. My customers cars have been broken into but it is VERY rare and damage is usually minimal. The best you can do is deter and strategically park.
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