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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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What sub combo would you run?

Ok so, I bought an amp way too damn big for my single 12w6V2, and now I am at a pass. The installer said I have the raw power for 2 12w6s, or a single 12w7, or even a 13w7. The problem is I already have a brand new 12w6V2, so I dunno whether to sell it and buy a 12w7 or a 13w7, or just buy another 12w6... The installer summed it up and said te 2 12w6s would be 4-6 db LOUDER than a 12w7, but the w7 would be cleaner, and still be in the low 140s dB wise, which is pretty f-in loud already. The 13w7 would probably get me near what 2 12w6s would be, but be deeper, and play clean and louder than the 12w7 obviously... Does anyone have any experience with either sub? My dad has a 12W7 in his Mustang, and it is amazing in sound, so I am figuring that is the way to go, but 145-148 with 2 6s would be bbad ass too...

Anyone want to buy a brand new 12W6v2? :wish: That would make it a lot easier on me to figure out what way to go, at least cut down one choice... post up any opinions. For reference, I am running a P/G Titanium ZX1200.1, which will be 600 RMS to the two W6s at 4 ohm mono, and 900 watts to a W7 at 3 ohm mono... running a 4 channel P/G Titanium for the front four, and the factory amp to the center, which will more than likely be on +6 to keep up... lol.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 09:14 AM
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im a fan of 10's they always seem to sound cleaner to me. are these going in your GT? how will they be enclosed? ported or sealed? if you did a w7 in a ported enclosure, it would blow 2 w6's in a sealed enclosure away. i ported a box for a 15w3 and a 12w3 for an xterra, the boxes were tuned to the same frequency, and we had the glass bulging in the hatch, and the roof rack rattling loose. and those are mis matched w3's. just some things to think about... or you could sell the amp and get a jl 500

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 09:51 AM
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If the sub is brand new then the shop should be more than willing to give you credit for it towards whatever else you get.

If your enclosure is built properly I bet you won't hear any difference one or two 12s playing at the same volume. Obviously double the speakers though will increase the total possible output. You won't see 4-6 db increase though unless you are also dropping the total impedance down to less than 1/2 what it was with only one speaker. At the same power level doubling the cone area under ideal conditions is usually worth at most 3bd (double the volume).

It all boils down to what you want out of your setup. Unless you have done some serious sound dampening to your car and you have some really nice components with lots of power on them up front then I don't see where playing "cleaner" is even an issue. It doesn't make any sense to spend double the money for a more accurate woofer when the overall sound quality won't be improved.

Now if you were going all out for a sound quality setup and have multiple layers of dynamat every where, some Focal Utopias or QSD 216 Quarts or even Morels up front all powered by Audison Venti Thesis amplifiers, using some really nice processing equipment, then I could see justification for a really high dollar woofer. However if you are like 99.5% of the population that spends money on car audio your primary concern is increased bass, something of which any of the options you mentioned are more than capable of doing. You are using quality components so you'll be totally satisfied with any of the options, I'd recommend going the cheapest route.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Wow great responses. The sub is new, but its been in a the box for two years. I bought it for my GT, used it for about 3 months, then sent it to JL, and they replaced it for me under warranty. The box will be sealed, I don't want ghetto beats like a ported box sounds like. I don't want the boomy bass, just tight low dropping smooth bass. I listen to a lot of dance and rock, so I want it loud and accurate, not boomy and distorted... If I sell my speaker I have, it will cost me less to get a W7, and $100 les for hte box because its s single chamber. If I buy another W6, it will be more expensive but louder, so I dunno. The W7 will play this amp at @ 900 watts due to the ohm load of the speaker, and the W6s will be at only 600 watts, so I would think the added power will make up for the extra sub. I haven't been into audio for a while, and this is my daily driver (TL), so I dunno what its going to sound like. I am not putting in any EQs or high end crossovers, (they are in the Stangs and my Porsch), so it will be a basic system with the built in 24/dB sloped crossovers, and the two amps. I am going to run 1/0 wire to a 4 gauge dist block, because I have all this shit I was going to put in my Stang. So I still dunno which way to go.

BP you say go the cheapest way, but then not to spend money on a high dollar sub... Well I can get a new W6 for $369 on hook up, retail is $500, and can get a W7 for $600 or $800 depending on size. I found 13W7s on Ebay for like $629, so if I sold my sub for say $300, saved $100 on a box, it would only cost me $229 more for a 13W7, instead of another $369+tax for a 12W6... see what I mean? on your recommendation, you would go with the cheaper setup even though it would be the best sounding one right?

IE, I don't like 10s, they sound like shit to me. I like DEEP bass, not hard hitting 60 hertz stuff... I dunno what the 13 would sound like, but I always liked how 15W3s sounded, so if it was a smoother version of that, I think that would sound the tits!

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 10:26 AM
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2005, 03:53 PM
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Keep in mind that when you decrease the speaker impedance the thd level goes up.

Your amp needs a 2 ohm load to get to it's rated power, the W7s are goofy as hell with their 3 ohm single voice coils. So with 1 W7 woofer you'll be getting 900 watts (approximately). This should be enough power to really motivate it though so it should work nicely. A single W6 won't handle the power, not even an option. Two W6s are more money, take up more room and the only advantage is that they'll play louder.

Since money doesn't really seem to be an issue go with the W7, either the 12 or 13" version. With nearly a 1,000 watts on a high quality woofer in a proper enclosure you should easily see 140+db on an Audio Control meter. You aren't stressing the amp or the woofer and if you need more volume you have room to grow with either more amplifier or an additional woofer.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 10:11 AM
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You could run the amp 8 ohm mono with a ported enclosure and it should be fine. Otherwise, run it 2 ohm mono and turn it down. 12W6v2 ported is sweet.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 10:59 AM
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if i were in your position. and i wanted sound quality, i would either go with a single 10 or a pair. not to mention that amp is going to strain the electrical system if you dont have a red top. i would IMHO downsize. to a jl500 and a single w6 or a pair of w3's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick
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All things start as a dream
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black2002ls
if i were in your position. and i wanted sound quality, i would either go with a single 10 or a pair. not to mention that amp is going to strain the electrical system if you dont have a red top. i would IMHO downsize. to a jl500 and a single w6 or a pair of w3's
Nope, I'll buy a red top if needed. I have three 1.2 PG caps I'll run one to each amp, and will be running 1/0, so I think it'll be good to go. It's not like the amp is a HCCA or anything.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EW
You could run the amp 8 ohm mono with a ported enclosure and it should be fine. Otherwise, run it 2 ohm mono and turn it down. 12W6v2 ported is sweet.
That could work too... I remember how sweet my dad's 12W7 sounded breaking in my friend's Z06, it was flexing the damn windshield visibly at about 20% volume from across the driveway. That is the type of sound wave that impressed the hell out of me. I am going to sell my W6 for whatever is reasonable, $350 or so, and buy a 12W7, and run the amp I got @ 3 ohms, which should be a conservative 900 watts or so. Should sound pretty decent.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 02:11 PM
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Matt, I know you're a HUGE JL fan, but you should check out a few different subs, maybe an Adire Brahma 12", or an RE XXX, they're both based on the same motor structure, and Both are very remarkable subs.

best thing is, they're CHEAPER than a w7 and are arguably one of the better SQ woofers around.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 07:44 PM
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i know my opinion hasn't been worth much so far. but a bat cap would do you a lot more justice than three cylinder type capacitors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick
something I read everyday at work:

All things start as a dream
All dreams start as a plan
All plans consist of thought out steps
All steps are not without a price

Dream, plan, pay the price - DO IT!
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black2002ls
i know my opinion hasn't been worth much so far. but a bat cap would do you a lot more justice than three cylinder type capacitors.
Yea my friend had one of those, and it blew up his amps, so I'll stick to what works, even if its old school...

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneBadWagon
Matt, I know you're a HUGE JL fan, but you should check out a few different subs, maybe an Adire Brahma 12", or an RE XXX, they're both based on the same motor structure, and Both are very remarkable subs.

best thing is, they're CHEAPER than a w7 and are arguably one of the better SQ woofers around.
Well I've had JLs since 1993, so that is all I know. Never owned another sub because I have never been disappointed with JL. I've had 11 different 12s, and the W7 will make #12, not ever been upset with the sound or the ability to take a beating w/o getting messed up.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STROKD
I bought it for my GT, used it for about 3 months, then sent it to JL, and they replaced it for me under warranty.

you asked for recommendations, and I gave you two badass subs that are both available for less than the w7, and are better performers. ( I sell the W7, and I believe it is a great sub, but there are better)
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-11-2005, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneBadWagon
you asked for recommendations, and I gave you two badass subs that are both available for less than the w7, and are better performers. ( I sell the W7, and I believe it is a great sub, but there are better)
I hear ya, no problem, I appreciate the recommendations!

The speaker getting messed up was my bad, and the cars bad, not the speaker's bad... I had a faulty altenator and it caused my amps to run to overload making the speaker's v/c pop. Got a new one out of it though, so can't complain about JLs customer service. It was over ayear old and installed by myself. Usually that drops the warranty down to about 90 days.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-12-2005, 08:57 AM
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i've heard horror stories from dealers about JL's tech support/customer service. glad to hear an individual getting some help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick
something I read everyday at work:

All things start as a dream
All dreams start as a plan
All plans consist of thought out steps
All steps are not without a price

Dream, plan, pay the price - DO IT!
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-12-2005, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black2002ls
i've heard horror stories from dealers about JL's tech support/customer service. glad to hear an individual getting some help
Hope so, I already bought a 12W7.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-12-2005, 11:12 AM
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