Max Lewis' Poor-boy Power Pipe

for 96-98 Cobra DOHC

 

Max Lewis, mustang collector and drag racer, with his 1997 Cobra. The aggie changing the tire on his 1993 Cobra in the background is his son Kyle.

Max runs a naturally aspirated Cobra, seen here, at the Texas Motorplex and at Little River. He was not pleased with the slow turnaround and apathetic customer service of a nationally known "mustang speed shop", and decided to create his own intake power pipe using readily available materials. He found what he needed at the Ford parts counter. It is a V10 triton intake cut to fit (it shares the same oval throttle body with the DOHC 4.6), and an adapter.

The intake tube is extremely long and curved so as to place the mass air flow (MAF) sensor within the fenderwell if desired, or you can cut the tube at the edge of the raised "triton" logo as was done here. The only clearance issue is that the flexible ribbed section of the pipe rests against the hood liner when the hood is closed. A neat application of thick aluminum duct tape applied to the underside of the line applied to the underside of the liner should provide adequate protection. Max is not running the optional cross brace which will not fit with this modification.

As you can see, Max maintains a clean engine bay, and his setup looks nothing short of professional. Notice the Pro-M 77 MAF and K&N are connected to the tube via the clamp. Also note the rubber hose extension on the right connecting the EGR tube. Max will replace this piece with something more stylish, but for prototyping purposes, this works fine.

This view from the front of the engine bay shows where Max drilled a small hole to retain the air charge temperature (ACT) sensor. This requires no modification to the wiring harness. One performance minded alternative is to extend the ACT wires and relocate the ACT to a cooler location, such as behind the foglight.

Hats off to Max for putting together a clean and functional package. Thanks, Max!

The part numbers are:

Triton Intake tube – YC3Z-9B659-BA
Coupler – E8ZE-9B647-AD

Here are Max’s own instructions:

  1. Cut triton pipe approx. 4.75 inch from ribbed area (MAF side)
  2. Using original pipe as a guide, locate and drill appropriate hole for the crankcase breather pipe (to valve cover)
  3. reather pipe (to valve cover)
  4. Using a 1/2 inch pvc pipe connector (cut off all but 3/4 inches), rubber cement the connector into the new hole and connect breather pipe.
  5. Notice that the IAC side of the pipe has two holes, but you need only one. Using a rubber plug (from Lowes), rubber cement into place and after drying, shave flush for a nice fit. For the larger hole, use a garden hose connector (5/8 inch) that's been cut in half. Rubber cement it into the large hole.
  6. This step is not necessary but a nice touch. Carefully (using a razor knife), cut out the entire 2-hole assembly. Then turn it 180 degrees and rubber cement into place. Viola, the assembly now points straight to the IAC plastic pipe assembly.
  7. Attach the IAC pipe to the triton pipe using heater hose (approx 3.5 inches) I used Motorcraft hose that conveniently had the word 'Motorcraft' on the hose; looks factory!!
  8. Drill appropriate hole for IAT sensor and install sensor.
  9. Install MAF. I used a 1/4 bend strap, or plumber’s tape, to connect maf/filter to the fender so as not to rub or vibrate against the body.  I used the hole that attaches the original air box.
  10. Disconnect batter (you can do this first) and allow computer to reset.
  11. Take her out and see if the top of 3rd and 4th feel stronger. I bet it will. PS--I redid the cementing by using JB Weld. The rubber cement was not has not holding up in hotter weather. I touched up the gray dried JB Weld with a spray can paint called "Black Bumper" touch up.

Later, Max

#3096 '96 Cobra/13.31 @ 104.40
#0029 '67 GT-350/per Carroll's specs