![]() |
|
|
#1 |
|
Here & there.
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,424
|
Refinishing wooden furniture
I've got a whole bedroom set of wooden furniture that's 35+ years old. It's great furniture because it's solid wood, it's bulky and strong. It already has a finish or stain on it but over the years there have been dings and nicks that have collected on different pieces. I'm wanting to get some wood filler and fill in the major nicks and then sand each piece to restain and refinish everything. What sort of sanding needs to be done? I'm sure it needs to be done in stages but what's a good grit to start with and how many stages of sanding would need to be done?
__________________
o | | | ![]() | | -- |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Here & there.
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,424
|
No one? No carpenters here?
__________________
o | | | ![]() | | -- |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 | |
|
Painting Your House
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Denton County, Texas
Posts: 10,289
|
Quote:
Even though I do a lot of refinishing, furniture is a unique job in itself. Others here may be better able to help you than I, but I will try on what I know. The biggest chore is in finding a stain to match what you have, if touching up is all you want to do. Wood fillers are the most difficult to get to stain as a match. If all you want to do is touch up, then I suggest that you use Minwax Golden Oak. Don't ask me why or how I know what color to use, just try it. It seems to blend to most colors without being noticed. You have to remember that a scratch will stain 10 times darker than the rest of the wood. As far as sanding, it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you want to strip the finish and start over from scratch, then you need to start with a stripper. Strip Ease is what works best for me. After several applications, let it dry and hit it all with 180 grit followed by 220. I personally wouldn't use any finer that 220 so that the stain will take better. When you go to stain, you can use just about any stain you'd like except for the Minwax products. They sometimes take days to dry. Lacquer stains are best, but you have to be very fast and know what you are doing. Just a good penetrating stain will be fine. Now if you are going to go through all this effort, then the finish should be applied with a spray rig using lacquer sand and sealer followed by a lacquer finish. Again...I'm not a furniture refinisher, but I have done a few pieces and it closely related to my profession As a side note...By the time you put all this effort into the furniture, you could have bought new. Good luck.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
Here & there.
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,424
|
Quote:
Thanks for the input. I want something to put the time and effort into because I have alot of extra time and it would be a good project. I don't want to buy new furniture because this has been in the family for years. I love but it just needs some work. I've thought about repainting. Would I need a a stripper too or could i just give it a good sanding and go from there?
__________________
o | | | ![]() | | -- |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
Painting Your House
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Denton County, Texas
Posts: 10,289
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,143
|
Leave it as it is... it will improve with age. Serious.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
Here & there.
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,424
|
Quote:
__________________
o | | | ![]() | | -- |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
Iamwaxman!
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 12,974
|
Quote:
Most people(ladies) would be happy that "nicks" on their bedroom furniture
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
Here & there.
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,424
|
Quote:
I got nothin
__________________
o | | | ![]() | | -- |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |

| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|