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Old 12-07-2007, 08:11 AM   #1
White_lightning
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Tile/shower guys.

The shower pan in my master bathroom cracked and im thinking of yanking out the shower, trying to make it a bit bigger and out of tile... anyone do this type of work? i dont need any of the water or drainage line relocated, just the tile work. LMK please.
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Old 12-07-2007, 03:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White_lightning
The shower pan in my master bathroom cracked and im thinking of yanking out the shower, trying to make it a bit bigger and out of tile... anyone do this type of work? i dont need any of the water or drainage line relocated, just the tile work. LMK please.
I'd be intersted in a quote too.. No change in size though, just pull out old tile and put in new stuff. It's a shower only with small tile on the floor (1"x2") and regular stuff on three walls.
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Old 12-07-2007, 03:51 PM   #3
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it's actually simply of you can lay tile

all you do is install a shower pan liner (you can buy this at homedepot) it's a large sheet of rubber basically that you center on the drain and seal then roll up the wall about a foot, you need to fold the corners instead of cut to fit so they remain water tight and screw them to the studs at the top of the liner

then you lay a mud bed (which is just tile concrete) sloped to the drain and when that dries you lay your tile to the edge of the drain and install the drain top (should be a screw in style drain)

I am a construction plumber and have seen it done hundreds of times but I'm not interested in doing it on the side

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Old 12-07-2007, 03:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobaganoosh
it's actually simply of you can lay tile

all you do is install a shower pan liner (you can buy this at homedepot) it's a large sheet of rubber basically that you center on the drain and seal then roll up the wall about a foot, you need to fold the corners instead of cut to fit so they remain water tight and screw them to the studs at the top of the liner

then you lay a mud bed (which is just tile concrete) sloped to the drain and when that dries you lay your tile to the edge of the drain and install the drain top (should be a screw in style drain)

I am a construction plumber and have seen it done hundreds of times but I'm not interested in doing it on the side

mike
He's pretty much dead on here. Home Depot also has books showing you how to do it. They even give free classes on laying tile.
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Old 12-07-2007, 04:17 PM   #5
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I'm not doing it.. I did the bathroom tile, which wasn't terrible, but screw trying to work in that shower. It's too tight and thats a lot of tile (all the way up to about 6 feet).
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:20 PM   #6
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I tiled my corner shower replacing a kit I had put in years previous. I retained the plastic shower pan and was able to install the frameless shower glass and shower panel pretty easily. I did consider ousting the pan, cementing in a base and tiling the floor but I really needed to get it functional again. Its a TINY bathroom
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:35 PM   #7
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see. i dont want the bottom part to be plastic.. i want it tiled.. who would i need to call to do it?
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Old 12-07-2007, 10:51 PM   #8
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I remodel kitchens & bathrooms for a living.

I have done it many times. It's pretty much a pain, but i would never do anything other than tile on my shower floor.

I can give you a Phone # to our "tile" guy we use. We can do it, but we are Really busy this year.

If you are serious about doing it the correct way, Lmk.
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Old 12-07-2007, 11:29 PM   #9
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I think its going to be in 08.. about what ballpark $$ numbers are involved in a tiled shower?
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Old 12-07-2007, 11:42 PM   #10
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Well, that depends.

If you "demo" the shower you can save $$

If you have got rotten studs behind all of it they have to be replaced.

Its hard to give a set in stone price. He would need to see what layout you want etc. I think he costs about $25 an hour.

We deal with high profile, picky people and his work is Always 100%.

I dont want to scare off by telling people it will cost 1,000 to 2,500.

But by the time you add up labor, material & Tile, it gets up their.
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Old 12-08-2007, 05:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onjacks
Well, that depends.

If you "demo" the shower you can save $$

If you have got rotten studs behind all of it they have to be replaced.

Its hard to give a set in stone price. He would need to see what layout you want etc. I think he costs about $25 an hour.

We deal with high profile, picky people and his work is Always 100%.

I dont want to scare off by telling people it will cost 1,000 to 2,500.

But by the time you add up labor, material & Tile, it gets up their.
that price doesnt surprise me at all... we did the girlfriends bathtub (just redid the sheet rock/tile, and the faucet and we had over $600 in just materials. Labor took us (2 of us) probably 20hrs (it was a learning process for us.)
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:47 AM   #12
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Here is ours. It was done when building the house.
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:22 AM   #13
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I can do the demo work. the house is 4 years old so i doubt there are any rotten studs.
lets say a 4x5' floor area.. one wall - tile 5'x7' other wall 4'x7' and then the side that butts up agains the tub, 4'x 2' if that makes sense..
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Here is ours. It was done when building the house.
that is basically what im looking for.
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Old 12-08-2007, 10:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White_lightning
that is basically what im looking for.
I wish I would have put a shower head setup on the other side also. I hate sharing. Something to think about when remodeling.
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Old 12-08-2007, 12:13 PM   #16
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Make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing when doing a shower pan. The old ones used to be made out of lead and I have fixed so much damage in my remodeling business due to them cracking, leaking, rotting out sheetrock, studs, bottom plates and don't even bring up the mold it causes. The last house I built, they used a membrane that is flexible. It was a walk in shower about 4 x 6 and it ran close to 3k to do it with the pan done right. Another option is to have the base built out of cultured marble, and then tile the surrounds. You will never have to worry about the membrane getting a leak doing it that way. You can also have the surrounds built out of cultured marble and it will be cheaper than tile with less chances of potential leaks in the future.
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Old 12-09-2007, 01:36 AM   #17
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so.. who on the thread can come out and give a quote?
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Old 12-09-2007, 07:57 AM   #18
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Make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing when doing a shower pan. The old ones used to be made out of lead and I have fixed so much damage in my remodeling business due to them cracking, leaking, rotting out sheetrock, studs, bottom plates and don't even bring up the mold it causes. The last house I built, they used a membrane that is flexible. It was a walk in shower about 4 x 6 and it ran close to 3k to do it with the pan done right. Another option is to have the base built out of cultured marble, and then tile the surrounds. You will never have to worry about the membrane getting a leak doing it that way. You can also have the surrounds built out of cultured marble and it will be cheaper than tile with less chances of potential leaks in the future.
Who would I go to for getting a quote using the cultured marble? My dad's past three houses have had this and I loved it. No grout to get all moldy. He's in an old neighborhood in Arkansas where most of the homes are 30+ years old. You'd think that it would be more common now, but the last I checked at Home Depot the people there had never heard of using it that way and thought I was crazy to consider it.
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:09 AM   #19
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I'm 180 south of DFW but you might start here.



http://www.yellowpages.com/Dallas-TX...m=qpiCityState


It is still widely used in a lot of high end new homes where I live. It will be cheaper and less maintenance in the long run.
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:13 AM   #20
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Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:45 AM   #21
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This looks interesting



http://www.accentmarble.com/index_files/Page1620.htm
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:24 PM   #22
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What kind of tile are you looking to go with?

There is a right way and a wrong way to do this... We want to leave it looking finished... Meaning, lets go with bullnose where bullnose should be, USe a smaller tile on the floor to get the proper drainage and slope.. When re-doing your shower, consider head height, If you are a taller person, you may want to have a plumber come up and move the head higher, or add heads...

YOu are not looking at that much sq ft...

To do your shower pan its 350.00 - (mud)

On average you are looking at 10.00 per ft. installed, this includes hardibacker and water proofing membrane. If you want to use natural stone it would go up in price, also, do you have a bench? I could consider using granite or marble on benches and pony walls ( my .02)

5.00 Per lineal ft to bullnose, and about 1 to 1.5K for your glass - (frame less)


I do about 2 to 3 of these pain in the asses a week!
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:39 PM   #23
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what town are you in
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:40 AM   #24
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in in frisco.. Hec.. do you charge to come out and do give a quote?
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:27 AM   #25
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Quote:
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in in frisco.. Hec.. do you charge to come out and do give a quote?


I have started charging for estimates., However, I can do people on the board for free... Showers are not that hard to bid, just tell me the surface area l x w -
Floors and walls and I can figure it out.... I will need to do a pan, and hardibacker with moisture barriers, All you need to do is figure out what tile you want!!!!

I would suggest a natural stone,




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Old 12-17-2007, 09:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Quotes should be free David. If they charge for a quote there's no way in hell I would use them as they are obviously not making a living off the quality they hope to sell...


*** I charge for estimates because i do not have time to be taken advantage of, I only have time to deal with serious customers,. I can identify a need and solution and I can close deals,,,, the potential customer has to be serious and have the $$ to move forward with me, I have many commercial jobs that require my time going 24 hours a day, I do not have time to be jerked around! ****

I hope everyone can understand and appreciate this...again,, I do not and will not charge anyone on the board for estimates!
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Old 12-17-2007, 11:17 AM   #27
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Hec, i will measure the area and if i can take photos. That way i have a ball park figure when you come out. if its 1000-1500 range for what i want its doable.. if its 2000-3000 it will have to wait. I will measure tonight.
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Old 12-17-2007, 01:02 PM   #28
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*** I charge for estimates because i do not have time to be taken advantage of, I only have time to deal with serious customers,. I can identify a need and solution and I can close deals,,,, the potential customer has to be serious and have the $$ to move forward with me, I have many commercial jobs that require my time going 24 hours a day, I do not have time to be jerked around! ****

I hope everyone can understand and appreciate this...again,, I do not and will not charge anyone on the board for estimates!

I understand..you cant run around across town all day to not get a job. Gas aint free.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:55 PM   #29
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HecDoggie is good to deal with. He hooked me up on some carpet and installation in my house. Would call him again.

Good luck. I did all my tile work in my house and it was time consuming, but easy. And I know it was done right! I had a bunch to do, I doubled my shower size, so that was really the only hard part.
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