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Unread 11-26-2007, 10:58 PM   #1
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Cost of Steel Building vs Brick...(home builders inside)

What would the cost difference be between building a 2400-2450 sq. ft. steel building vs a wood frame brick building? I am looking at some land but might not be able to put a steel building on it due to restrictions. A friend of mine built a 40X60 insulated steel building for 30K.

If I was to have a 35' X 70' shop built with a minimum of 10ft ceilings(would prefer 12ft). What would this cost me? Would it make it cheaper if I did tandom doors (ie. six 16-18ft wide doors, three on each side) Could I save money by going with a metal roof? How thick would the slab need to be 4", 6", etc.?
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Unread 11-26-2007, 11:11 PM   #2
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subscribing. been looking into this as well. i think there is a pretty large price difference in the 2. atleast from what i have seen.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 09:51 AM   #3
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If I don't get some answers real quick, there is going to be some ass kicking up in this mutha!!!
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Unread 11-28-2007, 09:54 AM   #4
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i have no idea but steel is very high right now i believe, i would like to see the difference also
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Unread 11-28-2007, 11:17 AM   #5
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I am hoping some of the home builders will chime in. I imagine they would have a pretty good ball park of what it would cost and where you could save money. I would like to know if more garage doors would save money since there would be less brick and frame. Also, I am curious if the metal roofs(like you might see on some custome houses) are cheaper than shingles.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 01:16 PM   #6
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I do structural design for single story restaurants every day (about 2,500 sf to 7,500 sf). In Texas, wood and brick is always the cheaper option. Steel may become the cheaper option if fire protection becomes a big issue.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 01:23 PM   #7
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In my humble opinion, the steel is much cheaper. I've done both for customers, and the steel came out a shit-ton cheaper. Of course, it depends on EXACTLY what you want, too.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 01:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StangTamer
I am hoping some of the home builders will chime in. I imagine they would have a pretty good ball park of what it would cost and where you could save money. I would like to know if more garage doors would save money since there would be less brick and frame. Also, I am curious if the metal roofs(like you might see on some custome houses) are cheaper than shingles.
The metal roofs you see are VERY expensive. About double for a high-quality product.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 02:27 PM   #9
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Well steel studs in fire protection are not always better . Steel will handle direct flame better verses fire treated or none , but wood will handle the heat better than steel .
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Unread 11-28-2007, 07:18 PM   #10
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my parents have been in the home building industry for 40 years............the race car shop is steel...............
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Unread 11-28-2007, 07:28 PM   #11
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For generic outbuildings, shops, etc....go steel. Anything else, with any type of design or complexity...use wood.

Good luck.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 07:56 PM   #12
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What about those companies advertising how cheap their steel buildings are compared to conventional construction? They claim to save you "thousands" over conventional construction.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 08:35 PM   #13
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I just built a 30x28 shop. beam slab, 3 windows and one side door, indoor plumbing, 18X10 CHI door, jack opener, 12 foot ceilings, coated floor, 220/110 stations. I have spent 12 K so far and the lift is the only thing left other than some rolling cabinets and outfitting it right.

Steel would have been cheaper but my development no longer allows steel.
Slab ~5.0 sq foot
Framing ~5.20 sq foot
Roofing ~30 square
Electrical ~1000
Plumbing ~750....
Permits, exterior,wood......It all adds up quick


Hope that helps. I would have done steel with roll up doors if I could.

My wife corrected me we paid 3.20 for the framing of the house and 2.00 per foot for the shop since it was simpler. I guess that is where I got the 5.20 from
the slab was 4.60 /sq foot. That included all cornice work and installation of the windows. I did the door myself and the garage door was from open-up garage doors in HEB area.

The electrical was 1045 and the plumbing was 450 since it was an industrial sinkl and toilet and then the run to the house main line.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 09:01 PM   #14
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Like grape said, if you are going for a shop, buy a pre-fab steel building as they are going to be your best buy. More so as they are ready to assemble.

If you are looking at building living space, go frame with brick veneer as the R value will then be there. Obviously the metal shop is going to have little in the way of insulation.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 09:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StangTamer
What would the cost difference be between building a 2400-2450 sq. ft. steel building vs a wood frame brick building? I am looking at some land but might not be able to put a steel building on it due to restrictions. A friend of mine built a 40X60 insulated steel building for 30K.

If I was to have a 35' X 70' shop built with a minimum of 10ft ceilings(would prefer 12ft). What would this cost me? Would it make it cheaper if I did tandom doors (ie. six 16-18ft wide doors, three on each side) Could I save money by going with a metal roof? How thick would the slab need to be 4", 6", etc.?

I am having a 40x60 shop built with 15' roof and 3 12' doors, insulated, gutters, the whole works and all welded not a bolt together for $34K turn key
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Unread 11-28-2007, 09:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doopie
I just built a 30x28 shop. beam slab, 3 windows and one side door, indoor plumbing, 18X10 CHI door, jack opener, 12 foot ceilings, coated floor, 220/110 stations. I have spent 12 K so far and the lift is the only thing left other than some rolling cabinets and outfitting it right.

Steel would have been cheaper but my development no longer allows steel.
Slab ~5.0 sq foot
Framing ~5.20 sq foot
Roofing ~30 square
Electrical ~1000
Plumbing ~750....
Permits, exterior,wood......It all adds up quick


Hope that helps. I would have done steel with roll up doors if I could.

fuck that's high.
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Unread 11-28-2007, 11:13 PM   #17
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I'm looking to do something similar next year.

I want to make a double car bay with ceilings high enough for a lift, and an apartment/gameroom on the second floor. Anyone here do steel buildings?

Anyone have any references for plans and such?

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Unread 11-29-2007, 03:02 AM   #18
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StangTamer a general rule of thumb for a metal building pricing is $10 a sq.ft. I am fixing to build a 40 x 80 with a 24 x 80 covered porch off the back. the building is going to cost me approx 24K then add 10K to 15K for concrete. i will have 3200sqft insulated and 1920 sqft of covered parking. I am building a 1600 sqft apartment inside the shop. I also have restrictions on the metal building 70% must be covered with a masonary product which is easy with manufactured stone. looks real but alot cheaper cost. i will insulated the shop with 2lb sprayfoam i have a hook up on that and can pass that on to you guys. i will do all the work myself so i sould save even more but i have set time aside to build it no rush but time is money. there are a few good metal building suppliers in dfw just price them out. but get a ref on your concrete mud man you want a good slab.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 04:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doopie
I just built a 30x28 shop. beam slab, 3 windows and one side door, indoor plumbing, 18X10 CHI door, jack opener, 12 foot ceilings, coated floor, 220/110 stations. I have spent 12 K so far and the lift is the only thing left other than some rolling cabinets and outfitting it right.

Steel would have been cheaper but my development no longer allows steel.
Slab ~5.0 sq foot
Framing ~5.20 sq foot
Roofing ~30 square
Electrical ~1000
Plumbing ~750....
Permits, exterior,wood......It all adds up quick


Hope that helps. I would have done steel with roll up doors if I could.
Your framing is about double of average unless the lumber was included, but your electrical sounds really cheap. It sounds like a nice place.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 08:58 AM   #20
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Your framing is about double of average unless the lumber was included, but your electrical sounds really cheap. It sounds like a nice place.

We just built a 6K sq foot AUR house and I could not find a framer below 5.00 that I would trust and could pass inspections. I contacted at least 30 framers and could not find one cheaper than that so I must have found only expensive framers.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
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We just built a 6K sq foot AUR house and I could not find a framer below 5.00 that I would trust and could pass inspections. I contacted at least 30 framers and could not find one cheaper than that so I must have found only expensive framers.
Production home framers are lucky to get more than $3/ft. for labor. I know a custom builder that is currently paying $2.95/ft. for labor.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Shelby
Production home framers are lucky to get more than $3/ft. for labor. I know a custom builder that is currently paying $2.95/ft. for labor.
I am guessing he is paying a subcontractor though, not hiring individual laborors himself..
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:38 AM   #23
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We just built a 6K sq foot AUR house and I could not find a framer below 5.00 that I would trust and could pass inspections. I contacted at least 30 framers and could not find one cheaper than that so I must have found only expensive framers.
I do this for a living, and you're a "one-shot Johnny", so yeah, you found the same framers I use...
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:50 AM   #24
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Production home framers are lucky to get more than $3/ft. for labor. I know a custom builder that is currently paying $2.95/ft. for labor.
I've been using the same crew for years, and I pay $2.80 a foot for frame, deck, cornice, setting my windows and exterior doors, and Zip wall.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:54 AM   #25
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I do this for a living, and you're a "one-shot Johnny", so yeah, you found the same framers I use...
I originally thought I had a labor crew but when it came time for warranty work the framer was not able to get his crew back out to fix a major problem for inspection. They said that they did it per spec and they wanted more money so the sub had to come out and do it himself. Not fun either. So I am sure I paid at least 2 per sq foot more as he had to have his cut. But that is the spoils of war when I am not a GC by trade.

What is the going rate for flatwork? Need driveway and walkways done?

Raymond
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:06 AM   #26
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I originally thought I had a labor crew but when it came time for warranty work the framer was not able to get his crew back out to fix a major problem for inspection. They said that they did it per spec and they wanted more money so the sub had to come out and do it himself. Not fun either. So I am sure I paid at least 2 per sq foot more as he had to have his cut. But that is the spoils of war when I am not a GC by trade.

What is the going rate for flatwork? Need driveway and walkways done?

Raymond
Keep in mind, I'm in Ellis County. A "reasonable" cost for flat-work (depending on the amount), should run about $2.75 a foot. That would be on a good sized area, say at least 1000 sq.ft. I pay about $2.30 on new construction.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:21 AM   #27
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I went with Mueller and did most the work myself. I graded the land, set the forms, setup the concrete delivery and hired someone to actually spread and polish the slab. Did 6" with 10" cross beams and 1/4" rebar on 16" centers. Put up the building myself, traded off a laptop on the electrical materials and did the work on that myself.
All together 30'x40' with 6" thick polished slab and 100a electrical service has cost me around $11000.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:25 AM   #28
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I am looking at around 2000 sq feet plus a culvert and some pads for mailbox, well, garbage. I am in Tarrant County Northwest country........Pass on the number to the 2.30 contractors
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Unread 11-29-2007, 04:23 PM   #29
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I doubt he'd go 2.30 for you, but I'll ask. A 20' culvert can run $500 or so, plus all the concrete around, over, and across it. That's not measured as standard "flat-work".
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:04 PM   #30
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I doubt he'd go 2.30 for you, but I'll ask. A 20' culvert can run $500 or so, plus all the concrete around, over, and across it. That's not measured as standard "flat-work".
Don't be a keyboard warrior now.....Back up that smack talk with low prices......and quality work.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:44 PM   #31
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I find it amazing you guys are getting insulated buildings for $15/sq ft installed. Last time I priced some of this stuff we were talkin $4/ft concrete, $5/ft install, $8/ft metal and that was with a hookup on the steel. Some contractors wanted $5/ft for concrete.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:00 PM   #32
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Well im glad im a welder now. and i have poured concrete too. some carpentry work, though not much. im going to build my own shop little by little so i should save a good bit on mine. heres hoping anyways!!
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:15 PM   #33
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I find it amazing you guys are getting insulated buildings for $15/sq ft installed. Last time I priced some of this stuff we were talkin $4/ft concrete, $5/ft install, $8/ft metal and that was with a hookup on the steel. Some contractors wanted $5/ft for concrete.
$5 a foot for a slab is pretty good, especially if they're pouring a lot of beams. I've used a beam around the outer part of the slab, with a criss-cross through the middle (depending on the size). I let my concrete guy do all that, and we get everything engineered.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:20 PM   #34
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Don't be a keyboard warrior now.....Back up that smack talk with low prices......and quality work.
I give him a lot of work to get my pricing, and I'm south of Dallas. I told you for what you want, 2.75 was fair. Smack talk? That's some respect there, doopie...Since I'm not credible, you should just find your own subs. After all, mine may not do "quality" work.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:41 PM   #35
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I've got one of those steel buildings with a house inside of it... mine cost quite a bit more than what is being thrown around in this thread.... and I watched things pretty closely when it was going up.

I could have saved a few bucks by purchasing a prefab or kit building, but otherwise, I could have built a pretty nice conventional brick home for nearly the same dough.

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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:53 PM   #36
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I've got one of those steel buildings with a house inside of it... mine cost quite a bit more than what is being thrown around in this thread.... and I watched things pretty closely when it was going up.

I could have saved a few bucks by purchasing a prefab or kit building, but otherwise, I could have built a pretty nice conventional brick home for nearly the same dough.

mardyn
Whats the efficiency like on a metal house? Expensive electrical bills?
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Unread 11-30-2007, 12:16 AM   #37
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Basically, I am looking at what the cost difference would be between the two. Obviously the brick would look much better than the steel. But, the land I am looking into buying has restrictions that might not let a steel building be put on it. They told me I would have to go through a bunch of b.s. in order to get the steel building approved in that area. Even then it would be a 50/50 shot to get it approved.

I am wanting to see how I could make a brick 35X70 brick garage more cost efficient. I am not concerned with having it finished out on the inside, because I cna do that. I mainly want a few windows and 6 16-18ft wide garage doors(tandom). In one bay I would like to have the ceilings high enough for a lift. The rest I would be happy with 10-12ft high. They did tel me I could use hardy plank instead of brick. But, I would rather have the brick. I would consider doing a little of both though. Is there anyone on here that might be interested in doing the work that would be able to give me an estimate? It is in Hickory Creek(between Denton and Lewisville)
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Unread 11-30-2007, 12:52 AM   #38
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Iíd like to give you a online estimate on the brick, but our business only consist of repair work (no new construction!)

First off you will have to find yourself a good brick layer to give you a free estimate on the cost (building, material, and labor)

Do your own research by calling places for prices.

1. call your local concrete plant give them the dimensions on the concrete slab WxLxDEEP
2. Call your brick yard ( maybe ACME BRICKS)
3. Concrete finishers
4. Framer/roofer
5. Brick layer

You are talking pretty big money for a simple garage w/ brick. It can be done at almost half the cost with metal and a concrete slab........


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Unread 11-30-2007, 12:57 AM   #39
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Donít forget youíll probably want electricity in the near future and also you can do your own insulation an sheetrock yourself!!!








This is the only pics I have of my metal garage. You can kind of see the inside and I have thin sheets of insulation between the metal frames and sheet siding walls...

It cost me a little under $9,000. We finished the concrete ourselves and purchased the building with two windows, a door, and a garage door. Also the metal building company came to my place and built it in one day with two guys doing it.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 04:49 AM   #40
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Do a pre-fab metal building then brick it?
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Unread 11-30-2007, 04:55 AM   #41
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Do a pre-fab metal building then brick it?
You can do it, but it's expensive. Brick is about $350 per thousand and about $400 per thousand to get it laid. Figure 5 brick per sq. ft. coverage...it's a lot.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 06:40 AM   #42
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You can do it, but it's expensive. Brick is about $350 per thousand and about $400 per thousand to get it laid. Figure 5 brick per sq. ft. coverage...it's a lot.

If you need brick I have a contact at Southwestern brick that is anywhere from 275-375 per thousand. I have around 3500 bricks left from my job if ou do not care about the brick color. I have a brick and stone guy that will charge you 325 per thousand to do brick and 4.50 per square foot on the stone. Options like Water ledges and soldiered bricks around the stone are a little more per foot. You supply the sand, mortar, lentils, and any other materials and he does the rest. He did a great job on 5 of the houses I saw and my house and shop and is fast and does great work. He put 27000 bricks and 40 tons of austin creme stone on mine in 2.5 weeks.

I can PM him you his number if you are interested.

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Unread 11-30-2007, 06:46 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by StangTamer
I am hoping some of the home builders will chime in. I imagine they would have a pretty good ball park of what it would cost and where you could save money. I would like to know if more garage doors would save money since there would be less brick and frame. Also, I am curious if the metal roofs(like you might see on some custome houses) are cheaper than shingles.

If you put up a garage door you need to have some type of lentil depending on inspections. Fort Worth required me to have a 18" engineered lentil to span 18 feet. So the cost of the lentil was just as much as putting in smaller doors and more wood and stone/brick. It all depends on what you want. What drove my price up was my wife wanted it to match the house exactly so the doors were twice the price as were the windows and having it fully skinned inside. I also added a bathroom since I did not want to walk all the way to the house to go. Should have added a urinal in there as well to make it easier o clean but didn't think that far in advance.
Di put a jackscrew door opener not to have the track down the middle of the door and would have liked to had the garage doors slide up the roof to not have those tracks to bu everythingcosts time and money.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 09:18 AM   #44
Progres1
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in 2000 Built my 4500 sqft shop with 6 bay doors building cost was

building 24k Metal with 6 15' bay doors
Labor to erect 6k
electrical 16k has its own transformer and meter has all high bay fixtures and plugs 220 and 110 at every door
plumbing -septic 4k
Interior plumbing hot and cold water outlets and air plumbing 1500.
concrete slab 20k with piers
800 Sqft Apartment 23k

94,000 in the year 2000

plus any concrete work outside shop for parking or driveway etc

that dont include all the other stuff like interior finish out like storage rooms heating or air conditioning etc

cost should be around 10-15 % higher at todays rates

John
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Unread 11-30-2007, 10:17 AM   #45
mardyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Progres1
in 2000 Built my 4500 sqft shop with 6 bay doors building cost was

building 24k Metal with 6 15' bay doors
Labor to erect 6k
electrical 16k has its own transformer and meter has all high bay fixtures and plugs 220 and 110 at every door
plumbing -septic 4k
Interior plumbing hot and cold water outlets and air plumbing 1500.
concrete slab 20k with piers
800 Sqft Apartment 23k

94,000 in the year 2000

plus any concrete work outside shop for parking or driveway etc

that dont include all the other stuff like interior finish out like storage rooms heating or air conditioning etc

cost should be around 10-15 % higher at todays rates

John
Those numbers sound much closer to reality...

I'm not saying it can't be done for less, but if you're wanting something pretty nice, it's gonna' cost some bucks.

Seemed like when mine was going up in 2004, freakin' steel prices were escalating upwards daily... brick work, electrical, plumbing, septic system, driveways, concrete, interior finish-out, drywall, painting and staining, floor coverings, HVAC, windows, insulation, doors, blinds, internal wiring for TV & H/S internet, cabinets & counter tops, fixtures, appliances & it goes on & on...

but the end product turned out pretty nice... and I'm really proud of it.

It's pretty efficient as well, electric bills average about 125.00 per month... highest has been about 160.00 in the summer, lowest about 65.00 in the fall/spring.

mardyn
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Unread 11-30-2007, 10:38 AM   #46
65Shelby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertnut
I've been using the same crew for years, and I pay $2.80 a foot for frame, deck, cornice, setting my windows and exterior doors, and Zip wall.
That's a good price.
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Unread 12-01-2007, 07:28 AM   #47
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Portions of my family have framed for their entire lives, which means I can get that portion of the process done for $2.25 a foot. If you guys are getting them framed out for $2.30 you're seriously getting it done...
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Unread 12-01-2007, 07:35 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox466
Portions of my family have framed for their entire lives, which means I can get that portion of the process done for $2.25 a foot. If you guys are getting them framed out for $2.30 you're seriously getting it done...
I tried a crew a few years ago at about $2.25 a ft., and they were not good. I build nice homes, and can't afford to have sloppy work. My guys at $2.80 are VERY good at what they do, and know exactly what I want done. They are a bargain at that price.
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Unread 12-01-2007, 08:04 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopped54
Do a pre-fab metal building then brick it?
Thats what I would do. I wish I would have poured a brick ledge for my shop. I would look into artificial stone too.
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Unread 12-01-2007, 08:18 AM   #50
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I was about to start looking into to the metal shops too. My cousin who lives in farmersville bought his own bolt together kit that is 60x40 with 2 garage doors and one personel door. He paid right at 9000 for the kit with insulation. He saived 1500 just by picking it up himself. I dont think he has concrete yet but knowing him he will have it soon and be working on building the shop. There is a place in oklahoma that sells the kits at a decent price. Next time I talk to him I will get more info.
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