eliminating the dreaded Holley off idle bog

[jyro]

You really need to pickup a book on Holley tuning. That being said, take the Holley off and flip it over, at the butterfly bores you will find a small hole and a slot, the idle air setting on the butterfly’s should be at the beginning of the slot, not the end of it. Cams with lots of duration require more air than lots of carbs are designed to flow at idle. That's why small holes are sometimes drilled into the butterfly’s, to let in more air so you can close up the butterfly’s with the idle screw and close off some of the idle transfer slot. This slot feeds fuel to the motor when the butterfly’s open to get the motor past idle into the venturi's flowing fuel. If you have used up most of the slot just to get idle, it has nothing left to use to get the main system, (the venturi) flowing fuel. The Holley tuning book shows all of this and, for a racer is required basic knowledge.
The idle mixture screws should be adjusted to 1 1/2 turns out.
These screws add a varying amount of air to a fixed amount of fuel. The idle fuel jets are drilled into the metering block. It's hard to tell rich form lean sometimes but on a holley but this is easy because they put the accelerator pump so easy to get to, with the motor running at idle, just pump the squrter some and listen to the motor, if the idle is correct, the rpm won't change, if it's lean, it will speed up, if rich, it will try to stumble.
Sometimes, after you have drill holes in the butterfly’s, you may have to richen the idle feed jets, these are a drilled pressed in jet in the metering block, a finger miniature drill and a drill index that goes from 60 - 80 on drill sizes is perfect. You have to drill a tiny amount and test till the mixture screws are 1 1/2 out and the idle is slightly rich.
The correct fuel level on a Holley is with the fuel at the bottom of the threads of the level check screw hole, not coming out the hole. The most fuel pressure the Holley is designed for is 7.5 lbs.
Some will hold more but not reliably.
The correct setting of the accelerator pumps is done at the screw and nut with a spring on it at the end of the arm. At idle the arm should have no slack in it so that when you give the throttle gas, it makes the squrter pump gas out with no delay.
Squirter tuning is MUCH harder. It sometimes requires a plastic cam set and an assortment of Holley squrters. If you have done or checked all the above things and the carb still bogs some , then you have to fine tune the squrters. For me this is trial and error, when the motor bogs, it can be either too rich, or too lean, I change the squrter and see if the problem is better or worse, an example of this would be having a #25 squrter and a bog and going to a #30 and the bog got less, this would mean that it was too lean with a 25 and the larger 30 helped it. Keep going larger till the bog is gone. I have to change squrters for winter or summer because the air temp is so different. Colder is denser air and you may have to richen.
I hope this helps some one. let me know if you have easier ways to do all these things. Besides EFI.