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Old 03-10-2010, 06:54 PM   #51
DTM_Motorsports
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F cam does take some patience but it can work. I dont' think it really is that bad, because he said somestimes it runs awesome then sometimes it doesn't. Sounds like the computer is freaking out, and going into rich mode and dumping fuel. Mine did that when I put the cam and intake and injectors and maf, plus he has a junk ass 75mm bullet maf, same as me and they have to be clocked to work on the car.


This sounds just like mine !!!
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:56 PM   #52
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This sounds just like mine !!!
I dont know where you are located, but hell I would be willing to either you come here or Ill go there for a beer or something, you buy the part and Ill mess with it. If it doesnt work I will pay for the part and use it on mine. I have solved alot of idling issues with my cars.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:57 PM   #53
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I dont know where you are located, but hell I would be willing to either you come here or Ill go there for a beer or something, you buy the part and Ill mess with it. If it doesnt work I will pay for the part and use it on mine. I have solved alot of idling issues with my cars.
It's not that I doubt the part, just mine is more than just an idle issue
if it were just at idle I'd be all in for it
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:04 PM   #54
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It's not that I doubt the part, just mine is more than just an idle issue
if it were just at idle I'd be all in for it
PM whiteboy he works for DM, thats where I get them. It would be worth the effort. My car ran full rich to the point of burning your eyes in just a few seconds. It idled up and down. It would die. It never ran right. I took a chance on this part, since at the time I didnt know about tuning. This was back in 02 and I was 17. I bought it installed it in 10 minutes, tweeked the allen head bolts on it, and brought the idle down from 3k to 700. It would fire right up everytime and idle at 700. It stopped running so rich as well. I was running this combo. DSS 347 F cam Ported GT40 heads. 1.7 Crane Gold race ped mount rr. pro m 76mm maf, 24lb injectors. 65 mm tb and spacer, edlebrock performer upper and lower, bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulator, trex 190 lb fuel pump. CAI. Hooker super comps, pro chamber H pipe and dumper flows.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:16 PM   #55
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http://www.mass-air.com/Products.htm
i have this, i will sale it,$125....
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:32 PM   #56
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Carbing the car is not going to be cheaper than a tune. I have a carbed 94 Gt but I also have a 393W in it and didn't want to deal with all the bullshit on the EFI. Its got a 750 Demon with a ported Vic Jr on it. I am running a MSD Digital 6 ignition box and MSD distributor. Its got a sumped stock tank and a Holley blue pump.
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:31 PM   #57
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I wasn't trying to be rude in my earlier post - obviously I wasn't aware of your situation with the income. That being said, it sounds like all you need is some self control to hold off until you can get it done right.
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:47 PM   #58
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Man. Those use to be $15 from Ford. It was a TSB. F2PZ-9F939-A
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:03 AM   #59
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install a '93 harness and computer and turn that bitch into a fox style settup/prom used to make a harness to do it as well but i know the 93 harness works.

go carbed loose torque value effiency did i say value?

and enjoy smelling gasoline all the time that really sucks.
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Old 03-11-2010, 06:56 AM   #60
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Man. Those use to be $15 from Ford. It was a TSB. F2PZ-9F939-A
I know there 6x.xx from DM. I bought mine from Fox Lake for 15.00. They work surpassingly well.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:56 AM   #61
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Clocking the maf, is when you loosen the maf and literally rotate it.left or right I have mine clocked clockwise with the pigtail kind of pointing up. Reset your ecm by unplugging the battery and letting it sit for a few min positive and negative disconnected. Then start it up and start adjusting little by little and take it for a test drive. Also make sure you timing is set to stock!!!!!!! 99% of driveability problems on 94/95 are attributed to the timing being advanced. Mike Wesley did an entire write about these computers, if you advance the timing 1-2degress, the computer will retard it 1-4degrees. I have mine set to 10deg total timing. Start adjusting your fuel pressure, I have mine currently set at 38 pounds. It took me 3 days of trial and error and it fixed my problem. The IAC controller will definately cure some idle issues but it will not cure your intermittant running problem. That is your car loading up with fuel. Start with this and work from there.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:57 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by fast83 View Post
install a '93 harness and computer and turn that bitch into a fox style settup/prom used to make a harness to do it as well but i know the 93 harness works.

go carbed loose torque value effiency did i say value?

and enjoy smelling gasoline all the time that really sucks.


Going carb has the opposite effect of torque........
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93 lincoln mark VIII up for sale pm for details 1400 96k original miles.
05 honda accord coupe daily driver needs paint, but atleast it's body work is done.
00z28 new catfish moser 9in, pat g custom cam, ls6 intake, long tubes, built 6spd and much more.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:53 AM   #63
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Going carb has the opposite effect of torque........
but it has the positive effect of horsepower
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:11 AM   #64
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Much of the torque issue has to do with the fuel curve of the carb and how well the venturi boosters work the signal and spray the fuel. With an out of the box carb, you are going to get just that. There is a BIG difference in one that is custom built and wet flowed vs buying a MEGA mass produced one and bolting it on. How well a booster works the signal and atomizes the fuel(or not) is single handedly the biggest factor in how well a carb does or does not work.(In comparison to other carbs, especially.) The air bleeds are also HUGE in the equation. I can show you 40HP, 30-50 lbs of torque, and MAJOR drivability improvements in working over a carb internally with modified boosters, air bleeds, etc. Even on a 302! Especially if the engine has wild cam timing in it. But typically, you won't find but a handful of us across the country who know much more than a little bit about carbs.

Injection is cool, nice and is easy to tune with the right stuff behind it, but carbs are also easy if you start with the right one and tweak it from there rather than starting with one that is dead wrong for the application and attempting to "Band Aid" tune it. There is so much more to it than simply messing with pump shots, jets, squirters and power valves. However, in terms of a throw it on and go with a quick little impromptu tune, typically injection wins.
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:23 PM   #65
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Gearheads tuned my 94 Cobra with a SCT chip to 630rwhp. that's with a .620 lift cam and it idles great. save your money and get a tune.
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