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Most popular street cam for 5.0l

23K views 100 replies 35 participants last post by  lxturbo 
#1 ·
For a daily driver what is the DFWS favorite cam?
1994 5.0 5spd

Car already has BBK SSI intake, BBK long tubes, bbk tb, bbk maf and 3.73's.
Just need a cam to complement what is already there.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Lol at you....many dyno charts have proven little gains with off the shelf cams or aftermarket headers on stock heads. E7's suck in stock form not to mention the stock springs wont handle any decent cam anyways.

I have been in the 5.0 game forever and know what I am taliking about. Not to mention I have had about every combonation of parts you can imagine.

I have GT40X heads, stock cam with 1.7's, ported cobra intake and a Vortech V1 I ran a 7.60 @93mph with full weight AC, power steering etc... on my break in pump gas tune in shitty West texas air.

I havent dyno'd yet cause I want to swap out my exhaust first and the torque arm really limits your choices.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I'm using the Crane 2031 cam on my '92 LX (lift is .512/.529, duration is .214/.220 at .050 with 1.7 rockers). Rest of the combo is GT40 heads, Explorer intake, Crane/Cobra 1.7 rockers, BBK longtubes, BBK catted H-pipe, 2.5" Dynomax catback, 70mm TB, AFM intake pipe, Pro-M 77mm MAF, 24 lb injectors. I'm getting my SCT chip retuned on the dyno Wednesday and wil post dyno numbers then.

I will say this cam has stock like driveability even without the retune and sounds great at idle. Power band is suppose to be 1500-5500 rpms and it's emissions legal. I got it new from Summit for $189.

Honestly, I'd wait and do a cam when/if you do heads. Do 1.7 rockers with the stock cam. You can find used 1.7 Crane/Cobra rockers used for $125 or less and the install is easy.

Marcus
 
#11 ·
True Dat... You don't need a big cam in a 5.0 for big power. But what about the few of us who like our cars to sound good. I have a old school motorsport B cam and I love the way it sounds. My buddy had some monster cam in his mostly stock coupe with a gt-40 setup and it was the best sounding car ever IMO. I am thinking of finding a MAN CAM for my aod car (mostly stock as well).
 
#13 ·
No one has mentioned the 94-95 being very picky with cams . Steeda makes the 19 cam that is ment to work with the computor in the sn95 with no drivability issues . They sound very good and don't cause idle surge or any drivability problems . Match it with a gt40 head and intake combo and it makes great power for a street car and its manners will be like a stocker . BTW , I am not a fan of the SSI intake .
 
#16 ·
Don't look at a cam, look at heads. Get some AFR 165's for a nice street head. Then you could pair it with a TFS Stg1 cam, and a GT40 style intake for a mild but fun street combo. That is a very mild combo. I run a camshaft from Isky in my 95 and it specs out: 228/238---524/544----LSA 112. I worked fine with the stock computer. You have to make a restrictor plate for the IAC and make sure tps voltage is below 1 volt at idle.
 
#17 ·
If you are going to go through the effort to swap the camshaft, I would upgrade the heads at the same time. A set of ported Gt40's would be a huge setup over the factory heads. Install a custom camshaft along with getting it tuned and you will have a decent running car. The SN95 cars typically hate cam swaps without having it tuned.
 
#26 ·
fair enough... I agree with that. I was "raised" that springs always match the cam... Built a lot of ghetto budget rides back in the day, and valve springs were always part of the equation.

Thankfully I've got a little more money these days, and like I said, I'd rather just put a set of real heads on! LOL
 
#28 ·
Heads may be an option at some point but right now no.
I would never put a better flowing set of heads on a stock cam. I am the kind of person who likes to see what each component did to the bottom line. I would be prone to doing a cam and springs now with a tune/chip or 89 5spd computer and later add heads if I am not satisfied.
I don't have a lot of experience with heads for fords. I have run Edelbrock performer RPM heads on my 350 and Dart pro 1 230cc/2.08 valve heads on my 432 small block.
I can tell you this, Performer RPM vs 882 casting GM heads = 1 whole second at the 1/8 mile.
 
#30 ·
Well then lets do it like this. What's your goal? You say heads in the future, so you will buy a cam now for the heads in the future? What heads? Camshaft should go after the heads for all the work involved. Do you want to make 250, 275, 300+ rwhp in the end? Do you want a poweradder down the road? Do you have et goals instead of dyno goals? What are you looking for? If you have no real goal then spend your money on Quarterhorse and Binary Editor. It will grow right along with your desires, and you can tune everything you have to the optimum performance. About $225 or so for QH and $90 for BE. So a little over $300 and I'll bet you can get more performance out of your current combo with some tuning than you will from a cam swap with stock heads.
 
#31 ·
Heads may or may not be in the future.
I would like for the car to run low 8's in the 1/8 mile. 8.2-8.4. I don't konw what that would translate to regarding HP numbers. I would guess around 300. My previous street car was around 400-425 and was a very consistent 7.7 car with a 1.5-1.6 60ft. But it was a 4mpg daily.
I have been looking at the SCT tuner. A few places sell it with 3 base tunes for 269 and HPP will do it and a custom tune for 550. I am just not sure if the custom tune will be worth nearly 300 by itself.
 
#32 ·
I am building my sons 302 as we speak, Motorsports b cam, Trick flow 170cc heads, rpm efi intake, what size throttle body would you recommend to use for it. It's a 88 coupe with a built aod and 3.55 gears, mainly a street car with some extra get up and go.

Thanks
Mike
 
#38 ·
why is it that almost every aftermarket cam i see is a 112 LSA cam but ShaunT recommends a 106 on one of his custom grinds......

I have the Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Cam XE266HR that is a .544/.555 lift 216/224 dur @ .50

I still have little kinks to work out with the heads being performers and a little carb tuning but overall im pleased with the performance.

with that being said if a 106 LSA will make that much MORE of a difference than the 112........then why would that be and what variable come into play.

current setup

306 race balanced all ARP throughout
Ross Racing Forged Pistons
Weiand Stealth Intake
BG Speed Demon VS Series carb 73/75 jets.....I think
Performer heads
Comp Cams 1052 aluminum 1:6 rockers
and the Comp Cam XE266HR

thats the main stuff done to it, here is a complete parts/build list if it matters
http://timcrofford.com/garage/partslist.html
Cam Specs:http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1056&sb=2
 
#43 ·
I had a 91 coupe daily driver back in the day the only mods were pulleys,cold air,shorty's w-off road h-pipe, and a NOS 150hp stage 2 dry kit! It it went 7.49@94mph 1.52 60ft on the "bone stock" E7 motor,410s,5-speed on a motorsport clutch and i could drive anywhere with ac on! Spray it for 1/3 of the price of heads and cam and save money on gas! ALTHOUGH 94-95 dont have forged pistons so stage 1 is recommended! LOL!
 
#46 ·
dark you have any videos, it was my old car..
 
#52 ·
No shit... your old car has changed a lot. It is in the body shop right now getting painted cause the top of the hood was fading, I added a cobra grille, Saleen aero spoiler and 17" Pony R's Here are the current mods and the only video I have.


Suspension:
Griggs Racing K member -Griggs Racing Control Arms -Griggs Racing Severe Duty Torque Arm -Griggs Racing Panhard Bar Severe Duty -Griggs Adjustable T/A Cover -Griggs Racing Bumpsteer Kit -Maximum Motorsports Lower Control Arms no spring perch -Maximum Motorsports Caster\Camber Plates -Maximum Motorsports Front Coil-Over Kit -Maximum Motorsports Rear Coil-Over Kit -Hypercoil 300 lb. Front Coil Over Springs -Hypercoil 250 lb. Rear Coil Over Springs

Drive trane:
12lbs chromoly flywheel, lakewood bellhousing, built T5, steeda tri-ax shifter, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears, Ford racing 31 spline center section and axles in a 98 Cobra rear end.

Brakes:
13" Cobra Brakes Drilled and Slotted Rotors (Front) -11.65" Cobra Brakes Drilled and Slotted Rotors (Rear) Wilwood proportioning valve, stainless braided brake lines, 95 cobra master cylinder and brake booster

Engine:
GT40X heads, stock cam with 1.7 roller rockers, ported cobra intake,70mm TB, 1 5/8 mac headers

Supercharger:
V1-SC 6.87,2.95 10 rib pulleys making 11 psi, polished discharge pipe, Anderson power pipe, Vortech bypass valve

Fuel system:
42# injectors, 75mm PMAS ,Aeromotive 1:1 regulator, GSS340 Walbo intank fuel pump, Anderson inline 'Big Pump"

Management:
Anderson series 4 PMS w/Interaq and software, 3 bar map sensor, AEM wideband
etc...


Last time I checked on the car a few days ago it looked like this.
 
#51 ·
I'm following this cam thread because I've got similar mods in a '95: Edelbrock Performer heads w/1.72 rockers, ASP pulley, GT40 upper and lower, 65mm TB, 80mm mass air, shorties w/Bassani catted H, and 3.73's.

It has a stock cam, and I'm also considering a change. I feel like a cam is about all it's missing and it could really wake it up. I'm open to suggestions.
 
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