N20 launch with manual?

[Llama_Boy]

The squeeze thread got me thinking about the launch process for my car if I were to add N20.

I have a Bullitt (5-speed only)with gears and drag radials and its otherwise stock. I would prolly add a NX wet 100 shot if I went the N2O route with a window switch 2K-6K, a full throttle microswitch, and a simple on-off arming switch.

What would I launch like??

Still do the 3-4K drop the clutch and floor it? So far it has netted consisnent 1.9s and a few 1.8s, 1.82 being the best.

Would the N2O cause me to loose traction and kill the ET?
Would the stock 8.8 handle that off the line if it hooked? :eek:
Should I wait until second to arm the system?
Shit, it seems much eisier with an auto!

[dragradialstang]

I don't think you would hook on those tires.

[crxpert]

what works best for me is to activate the nitrous system when i have enough momentum that it won't just spin the tires. that usually ends up being in second gear after the car hooks up. if you have some et streets i would just put it on a micro switch and just spray the shit out of it comin out of the hole. if you play your cards right and you could probly get yout et down to a 7.80 or 90. just my .02 good luck!!!!!!!!

[FatassLX]

invest in some et drags/streets if your going to launch on the juice. the 8.8 should be able to handle it. i've known people that ran 10's on stock axles tho i wouldnt sudgest trying it.

[Llama_Boy]

Originally posted by dragradialstang
I don't think you would hook on those tires.


Currently I run 275-50-15 BFG Drag Radials aer these the tire you are saying wouldn't hook?

[Kaji]

Originally posted by Llama_Boy



Currently I run 275-50-15 BFG Drag Radials aer these the tire you are saying wouldn't hook?

Yes, they wouldn't hook on the hose.

[ALLAN]

Originally posted by Llama_Boy



Currently I run 275-50-15 BFG Drag Radials aer these the tire you are saying wouldn't hook?

my 245/50/16 Nittos pulled 1.8 60fts on my nitrous runs

[sleeperLS]

i say put it on a botton fuck that full throttle shit if you are gunna run drag radials all the time and or run street tires that dont hook at all. i just like being able to lift a finger and keep the gas planted and hopefully get some traction instead of letting off the gas completely and then getting back in it. btw i take off on motor at about 4k and as soon as it starts to bog i spray on the nitto's at the track works good and nets low 1.8 60's

[Saladbar]

Originally posted by Kaji98Z


Yes, they wouldn't hook on the hose.

They would too... Well, pretty decent. I've cut 1.7 60's on 16" BFG's on the juice - back when I was running juice on the stock motor. 15's oughtta be even better.

JMHO

[mild98]

I just added N20 this week and with Goodyear slicks I pulled 1.58 60' times. But I also shelled the clutch.

Needed a better clutch anyway

[Llama_Boy]

Cool, so the tires will prolly hook enough with just a 100shot.


Would I arm the system and be spraying on the line? or spray the instant I launch?

In my (simple) mind, it would be best to use the full throttle micro-switch and continue the same launch (~4K). Then dump the clutch and stomp the gas on the 3rd light.. This should let be leave the line on motor and let the N2O kick-in very soon and perhaps keep me from bogging. Also this seems like it would be easier on the stock 8.8 as it would allow the normal launch and add the N2O only after the initial few feet??

What would be a good window for the juice? I have a 6150rpm limiter and based in the curve 5850 is teh idea shift point for 1-2 and 5700 for 2-3. Would I set the window for 6K to keep it off the limiter or should I set it closer to the high shift point 5850?

BTW thanks for all the feedback!

[RyanB]

Just use a fullthrottle switch and a window switch. How much shit do you wanna try and do at one time? Launch, shift, hold a button, steer? Or just drive it like you always do, but with the N20 helping get you there faster. Ride in someones car on spray, and see what they do, I dont wanna see you Boom Bitch that Bullitt;).

[Llama_Boy]

Originally posted by RyanB
I dont wanna see you Boom Bitch that Bullitt;).


I don't either.. but if it breaks it needed upgrading anyway ;)

[garrison89']

i would suggest some sub-frame connectors to keep the car from flexing. with a set of slicks and 125 shot and a few other mods, i can drop the clutch at about 3500 and floor it in first gear and it wont spin a bit.

[Beej]

I just used the wot switch, reved to 4g's and dumped it. I used both bfg's and mt's. I pulled 1.8's with bfg's and 1.7's with slicks.

[Llama_Boy]

Originally posted by garrison89'
i would suggest some sub-frame connectors to keep the car from flexing.


Bullitt came with them stock ;) I'm not saying they are great subframe connectors but they are there..

[garrison89']

than your good to go. one thing that might be a good idea is to weld up you torque box's before they start to pull out of the frame. its just a pre-caution. rev to 4g's dump the clutch and punch the gas, but be careful you might brake your seat.

[LS1s LikeMyTailights]

Llama_Boy Glad to hear you got a power adder ... did you get it yet? ... Lauching is a b!tch w/ the bottle, why dont you just get some ET Streets and drive with that daily hehe ... SFCs are a good suggestion garrison89', my last car flexed like a popsicle stick while on the juice. What NOS company are you going to go for? .... Dont worry about going BOOM if you are just running 100hp wet shot, I had that on my '00 and shot the hell out of it for a good 50x times ... http://www.dfwstangs.net/hosting/LS1s_LikeMyTailights/evil.gif

[Llama_Boy]

Originally posted by LS1s LikeMyTailights
Llama_Boy Glad to hear you got a power adder ... did you get it yet? [/IMG]


No purchase yet, just checking out my options..

I like the idea of NA but to do a good setup the cost is about the same as a good supercharger install.. ($2-3K 300-350hp)

The N20 route is atractive because it's cheap but them I'm dependent on a bottle and refills for performance. It also seems trickier to launch ($500-1K 350-400hp on the bottle)

Supercharger seems to be a good solution.. The only downfall is the cost to do it correctly. ($4-5K ~400hp)

I still have some tweaking to do before the decision needs to be made and I would like to be a little closer to the warranty expiration before I void it.

[LS1s LikeMyTailights]

Just put the NOS on and if something happens yank that crap out ... if you have the money right now to burn on a SC go for it but humm how about this ... get the NOS now and when its time for the SC either uninstall it or leave it in for a backup .. humm I think its a win/win kindof deal :)