Split Unit A/C for Garage

[sonic93]

ETA: Any A/C Guru want to give me an idea what it will cost to install a split A/C in the garage? It will be a 110v and I am thinking about doing 2 9000btu units at one time. 2 Inside Fan units and 2 outside Compressor units.


Does anyone have experience with split unit a/c systems? I am about to expand my garage from 835 sqft to roughly 1300 sgft and would like to a/c the entire area. I plan on doing a thick layer of blown in insulation in the attic and using the foil foam insulation board on the garage doors.

What size unit should I use for that square footage? I would be open to using more than one to zone cool. I may even do a plastic curtain system to devide the garage to aid in the zone cooling and cut down on cost of usage.

Here is a page where I found some units for sale. Is there a local vendor in the DFW area that anyone knows about.
http://www.air-conditioner-america.com/category.asp?subcat=SplitAC&utm_source=YahooPaidInc&utm_medium=PPC&utm_term=category-SplitAC&wm_lpID=11148964&wm_ctID=153&wm_kwID=8204024&wm_mtID=22&wm_defaultURL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.air-conditioner-america.com%2fcategory.asp%3fsubcat%3dSplitAC%26ut m_source%3dYahooPaidInc%26utm_medium%3dPPC%26utm_t erm%3dcategory-SplitAC&wm_kw=Learn%2c+Compare+and+Buy+Mini+Split+Air+Cond itioners+Ductless+AC&utm_source=ssp&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=learn%2c+compare+and+buy+mini+split+air+c onditioners+ductless+ac&utm_campaign=yahoo+ssp+%2D+air%2Dconditioner%2Dame rica%2Ecom

[ceyko]

Ah, for some reason when I first read this I thought you were referring to something else. Where 1 AC cools two zones....

Anyway, the Army loves those things. They were quite popular for calling their tiny data centers in (trailers more or less) the Balkans. They always worked great, the only maintenance we did was filter changes.

The only real problem was on humid days, when it was not quite hot and it was not quite cold - the damned things would freeze up like a popsicle. A hair dryer/heat gun, fixed that up with zero problems.

The other cool part was some local (in Bosnia) restraunts used them. You could program your pda to control them and actually make it cool in the place. :D

Anyway, my experience with them is good. However, the Balkans were relatively mild during the summer - more extreme winters there then extreme summers. Iraq, I can't think of a place that had those units. It was either central air or window units they stuck in a wall.

Take care,

[miketyler]

I always thought the hotel AC units were the way to go for heat n' air units. 1300 sq ft is a pretty large area. I had heard that 20BTU/sqft is a good reference when you take nothing else into consideration but sq ft. I saw this here:
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/heating_cooling/window_ac.html

To cool this area Look for this size air conditioner
100 to 150 square feet 5,000 BTUs
150 to 250 square feet 6,000 BTUs
250 to 300 square feet 7,000 BTUs
300 to 350 square feet 8,000 BTUs
350 to 400 square feet 9,000 BTUs
400 to 450 square feet 10,000 BTUs
450 to 550 square feet 12,000 BTUs
550 to 700 square feet 14,000 BTUs
700 to 1,000 square feet 18,000 BTUs
1,000 to 1 400 square feet 24,000 BTUs

If the space is insulated well and has good windows door seals maybe you could run a couple of 10k BTU split units?

[Samhain]

Does anyone have experience with split unit a/c systems? I am about to expand my garage from 835 sqft to roughly 1300 sgft and would like to a/c the entire area. I plan on doing a thick layer of blown in insulation in the attic and using the foil foam insulation board on the garage doors.

What size unit should I use for that square footage? I would be open to using more than one to zone cool. I may even do a plastic curtain system to devide the garage to aid in the zone cooling and cut down on cost of usage.

Here is a page where I found some units for sale. Is there a local vendor in the DFW area that anyone knows about.
http://www.air-conditioner-america.com/category.asp?subcat=SplitAC&utm_source=YahooPaidInc&utm_medium=PPC&utm_term=category-SplitAC&wm_lpID=11148964&wm_ctID=153&wm_kwID=8204024&wm_mtID=22&wm_defaultURL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.air-conditioner-america.com%2fcategory.asp%3fsubcat%3dSplitAC%26ut m_source%3dYahooPaidInc%26utm_medium%3dPPC%26utm_t erm%3dcategory-SplitAC&wm_kw=Learn%2c+Compare+and+Buy+Mini+Split+Air+Cond itioners+Ductless+AC&utm_source=ssp&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=learn%2c+compare+and+buy+mini+split+air+c onditioners+ductless+ac&utm_campaign=yahoo+ssp+%2D+air%2Dconditioner%2Dame rica%2Ecom

For that size space, not knowing the contents or insulation, a 3 ton unit is my 2 cents.

[sonic93]

Any A/C Guru want to give me an idea what it will cost to install a split A/C in the garage? It will be a 110v and I am thinking about doing 2 12000btu units at one time. 2 Inside Fan units and 2 outside Compressor units.

Here is the system I am about to order (X2)
http://kingersons.com/12000btuminisplitac-inverter.html

I like their warranty but must be installed by a pro. 5 year on compressor and 3 on parts

[Big Studly]

good luck getting a pro to install it since that type of unit will most likely be against code

[jyro]

good luck getting a pro to install it since that type of unit will most likely be against code
who's code?

[BIGCUBES]

Thats only 2 tons worth of air .Id go with a split system condenser outside fan coil inside w/ductwork either exposed spiral or the flexible in the "attic "area .If its going to "finished out" like for living , could always do a firdown and cover the ductwork.Id also do at the bare minimum a 3 -1/2 ton.Depending on type of door you have and the way it seals off.Make sure you have a BIG return about 50 cubic inches worth.The more return the better as A/C is about taking the heat away.Good Luck

[jyro]

Make sure you have a BIG return about 50 cubic inches worth.The more return the better as A/C is about taking the heat away.Good Luck

I always measure return filter area in square inches, not cubic inches. 144 sq" area per ton was a good rule of thumb. Now it's more like 160 sq" per ton.

[Big Studly]

who's code?

well, I could start with ASHRAE 62.1 which is referenced in the IMC, or you could go directly to the IMC and see what kind of requirements are for a garage as far as exhaust goes. I know for industrial applications a garage is required to have a boat load of exhaust plus you have to monitor CO and have a control at xx ppm (want to say 30) that kicks on the exhaust and you have to have a high level alarm (want to say 150 ppm), which means you will have to have a shit ton of make-up air, which means 800 or so CFM isn't going to cut it, nor will 2 tons in our climate. Regardless of all of the commercial/industrial requirements vs. residential, that unit will not meet ASHRAE 62.1, which is now based on space type to classify the area then you have to use a CFM/person and CFM/sq ft. I guess depending on what he is doing in the garage, you could also delve into the ICGH for requirements. Also, since this is an un-engineered system, you could wrongly assume that the system is over sized (which it could eventually get there if he keeps guessing at the tonnage), which, if over sized by a certain percentage could go against the IECC. Not to mention that if the insulation in the walls and over the garage are at a minimum due to the space not intended to be conditioned, it is possible that the R-values of the insulation do not meet the IECC, which is actually a reflection of ASHRAE 90.1. I also believe I remember reading that the IECC calls for each space to have one unit serving the area controlled by a single thermostat with a 5 degree dead band, not multiple units served by multiple thermostats.

[sonic93]

Thats only 2 tons worth of air .Id go with a split system condenser outside fan coil inside w/ductwork either exposed spiral or the flexible in the "attic "area .If its going to "finished out" like for living , could always do a firdown and cover the ductwork.Id also do at the bare minimum a 3 -1/2 ton.Depending on type of door you have and the way it seals off.Make sure you have a BIG return about 50 cubic inches worth.The more return the better as A/C is about taking the heat away.Good Luck


Thanks
Like I said the area will be all garage and when the expansion is complete I will have just under 1350sqft with 8' ceilings. I am not looking to keep it 70* on a 110* day just cool enough to work in. The same thing goes for the winter, just warm enough to work in also. I would be willing to bet that a split system condenser outside fan coil inside w/ductwork and all the return jazz will be outside of the amount of coin I have alloted for this project.

Now if I can find someone who can give me an idea on installing to split units at 1 ton each that would be perfect.

[BIGCUBES]

[QUOTE=jyro;5784038]I always measure return filter area in square inches, not cubic inches. 144 sq" area per ton was a good rule of thumb. Now it's more like 160 sq" per ton.[/QUOTE

3 ton = 14" diameter
3 1/2 =16"
4=18"
5=20"

Radius squared x pi

[jyro]

[I][QUOTE=sonic93;5774046]ETA: Any A/C Guru want to give me an idea what it will cost to install a split A/C in the garage? I am about to expand my garage from 835 sqft to roughly 1300 sgft and would like to a/c the entire area. I plan on doing a thick layer of blown in insulation in the attic and using the foil foam insulation board on the garage doors.


insulate all the walls, don't do any windows or skylights, seal the shit out of the door and you can get away with 2 tons. Be sure the attic is vented well also. As for not being code


The International Code Council (ICC) approved a proposal by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers Inc. (ASHRAE) to incorporate the prescriptive ventilation rate procedure from ANSI/ASHRAE 62.1-2004 - Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in the International Mechanical Code (IMC).

The code was designed to establish minimum regulations adopted and implemented by federal, state and local government agencies for mechanical systems in new buildings.


from the first sentence in the ASHRAE 90 .1 code--- The 90.1 Code, which this manual explains, is a set of requirements for the energy efficient design of commercial buildings.

[Big Studly]

[I][QUOTE=sonic93;5774046]ETA: Any A/C Guru want to give me an idea what it will cost to install a split A/C in the garage? I am about to expand my garage from 835 sqft to roughly 1300 sgft and would like to a/c the entire area. I plan on doing a thick layer of blown in insulation in the attic and using the foil foam insulation board on the garage doors.


insulate all the walls, don't do any windows or skylights, seal the shit out of the door and you can get away with 2 tons. Be sure the attic is vented well also. As for not being code


The International Code Council (ICC) approved a proposal by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers Inc. (ASHRAE) to incorporate the prescriptive ventilation rate procedure from ANSI/ASHRAE 62.1-2004 - Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in the International Mechanical Code (IMC).

The code was designed to establish minimum regulations adopted and implemented by federal, state and local government agencies for mechanical systems in new buildings.


from the first sentence in the ASHRAE 90 .1 code--- The 90.1 Code, which this manual explains, is a set of requirements for the energy efficient design of commercial buildings.

I don't know where you got your quotes from, but I am going to go out on a limb and say you have never heard of ResCheck, which is a program to evaluate compliance with DOE energy codes for RESIDENTIAL buildings, including the 2006 IECC, which like I said, is basically a direct reflection of ASHRAE 90.1. There are also specific requirements for RESIDENTIAL buildings in the 2006 IECC.

Not only that, but you have obviously never read ASHRAE 62.1, or you would know that you are 100% wrong. It is for new buildings, addition to buildings or changes to or additions of mechanical systems. If you do ever take the time to read it, which I suggest you do if you are going to try and call someone out regarding it, you should concentrate on section 1. Particularly section 1.3, where it specifically mentions it is for existing buildings.

On top of those things, a "thick layer of blown insulation" is an arbitrary amount with no quantitative value. It MUST meet the minimum requirements stated in the latest version of the IECC along with the insulation in the walls including the garage door and the windows in the addition must meet the minimum requirements for the U-value as well as the SHGC. There could also be more stringent requirements adopted by the city he lives in as well.

That being said, unless those units the OP posted a link for have a connection for an outside air duct, then they will go against code and if you have to get a building permit for this little project, I would think someone would say something about it. When I was reviewing plans for code compliance it was one of the first things I would look at, along with the checklist that goes along with the COMCheck or RESCheck report that was required to be submitted with the plans.

Is there anything else you would like to be wrong about?

[jyro]

[QUOTE=jyro;5785312][I]

I don't know where you got your quotes from,

here ---- http://www.energycodes.gov/comcheck/pdfs/100text.pdf
where it states--- The 90.1 Code, which this manual explains, is a set of requirements for the energy efficient design of commercial buildings.





There are also specific requirements for RESIDENTIAL buildings in the 2006 IECC.

Not only that, but you have obviously never read ASHRAE 62.1,

oh, you mean here ---- http://www.ashrae.org/pressroom/detail/16298
where it states " ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 62.1-2007, Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality, sets minimum ventilation rates and other requirements for commercial and institutional buildings."

then there's this statement ------ Building Types Covered. The 90.1 Code applies to new commercial and high-rise residential buildings. High-rise in this context is defined to include buildings with four or more habitable stories. The 90.1 Code does not apply to low-rise residential buildings such as single family homes, duplexes, and garden apartments.

to read it, which I suggest you do if you are going to try and call someone out regarding it, you should concentrate on section 1. Particularly section 1.3, where it specifically mentions it is for existing buildings.

you mean this part of 100-3 http://www.energycodes.gov/comcheck/pdfs/100text.pdf --- Application to Existing Buildings. The 90.1 Code is silent about its application to additions, renovations, repairs, replacements, and/or remodeling.


On top of those things, a "thick layer of blown insulation" is an arbitrary amount with no quantitative value. It MUST meet the minimum requirements stated in the latest version of the IECC along with the insulation in the walls including the garage door and the windows in the addition must meet the minimum requirements for the U-value as well as the SHGC. There could also be more stringent requirements adopted by the city he lives in as well.

you don't know if he even lives inside a city or if he's puttin in any windows, he didn't mention any , did he mention a permit?

That being said, unless those units the OP posted a link for have a connection for an outside air duct, then they will go against code and if you have to get a building permit for this little project, I would think someone would say something about it. When I was reviewing plans for code compliance it was one of the first things I would look at, along with the checklist that goes along with the COMCheck or RESCheck report that was required to be submitted with the plans.

Is there anything else you would like to be wrong about?

the insulation will be about as thick as your head
like your head, the insulation will prevent anything from getting through

[sonic93]

[QUOTE=Big Studly;5785569]

the insulation will be about as thick as your head
like your head, the insulation will prevent anything from getting through

lol

I spoke to a couple of my HVAC guys that I work with here (Afghanistan) and they say these split unit are beyond simple to install. They said the keu is to hook the lines up on a warm dry day. The only thing I may need a technician for, is to run a vacuum on the lines. I should be able to do the rest. I am not worried about the need for a tech to install it for warranty reasons. My guys are telling me that unless I get a complete lemon I should not need the warranty anyways.

[Big Studly]

SECTION M1602
RETURN AIR
M1602.1 Return air. Return air shall be taken from inside the
dwelling. Dilution of return air with outdoor air shall be
permitted.
M1602.2 Prohibited sources. Outdoor and return air for a
forced-air heating or cooling system shall not be taken from the
following locations:
1. Closer than 10 feet (3048 mm) to an appliance vent outlet,
a vent opening from a plumbing drainage system or
the discharge outlet of an exhaust fan, unless the outlet is
3 feet (914 mm) above the outside air inlet.
2. Where flammable vapors are present; or where located
less than 10 feet (3048 mm) above the surface of any
abutting public way or driveway; or where located at
grade level by a sidewalk, street, alley or driveway.
3. Aroom or space, the volume of which is less than 25 percent
of the entire volume served by such system. Where
connected by a permanent opening having an area sized
in accordance with ACCA Manual D, adjoining rooms
or spaces shall be considered as a single room or space
for the purpose of determining the volume of such rooms
or spaces.
Exception: The minimum volume requirement shall
not apply where the amount of return air taken from a
room or space is less than or equal to the amount of
supply air delivered to such room or space.
4. A closet, bathroom, toilet room, kitchen, garage,
mechanical room, furnace room or other dwelling unit.
5. A room or space containing a fuel-burning appliance
where such room or space serves as the sole source of
return air.
Exceptions:
1. The fuel-burning appliance is a direct-vent
appliance or an appliance not requiring a vent in
accordance with Section M1801.1 or Chapter
24.
2. The room or space complies with the following
requirements:
2.1. The return air shall be taken from a
room or space having a volume exceeding
1 cubic foot for each 10 Btu/h (9.6
L/W) of combined input rating of all
fuel-burning appliances therein.
2.2. The volume of supply air discharged
back into the same space shall be
approximately equal to the volume of
return air taken from the space.
2.3. Return-air inlets shall not be located
within 10 feet (3048 mm) of any appliance
firebox or draft hood in the same
room or space.
3. Rooms or spaces containing solid-fuel burning
appliances, provided that return-air inlets are
located not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from
the firebox of such appliances.
M1602.3 Inlet opening protection. Outdoor air inlets shall be
covered with screens having openings that are not less than
1/4-inch (6 mm) and not greater than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm).

[jyro]

SECTION M1602
RETURN AIR
M1602.1 Return air. Return air shall be taken from inside the
dwelling. Dilution of return air with outdoor air shall be
permitted.
M1602.2 Prohibited sources. Outdoor and return air for a
forced-air heating or cooling system shall not be taken from the
following locations:
1. Closer than 10 feet (3048 mm) to an appliance vent outlet,
a vent opening from a plumbing drainage system or
the discharge outlet of an exhaust fan, unless the outlet is
3 feet (914 mm) above the outside air inlet.
2. Where flammable vapors are present; or where located
less than 10 feet (3048 mm) above the surface of any
abutting public way or driveway; or where located at
grade level by a sidewalk, street, alley or driveway.
3. Aroom or space, the volume of which is less than 25 percent
of the entire volume served by such system. Where
connected by a permanent opening having an area sized
in accordance with ACCA Manual D, adjoining rooms
or spaces shall be considered as a single room or space
for the purpose of determining the volume of such rooms
or spaces.
Exception: The minimum volume requirement shall
not apply where the amount of return air taken from a
room or space is less than or equal to the amount of
supply air delivered to such room or space.
4. A closet, bathroom, toilet room, kitchen, garage,
mechanical room, furnace room or other dwelling unit.
5. A room or space containing a fuel-burning appliance
where such room or space serves as the sole source of
return air.
Exceptions:
1. The fuel-burning appliance is a direct-vent
appliance or an appliance not requiring a vent in
accordance with Section M1801.1 or Chapter
24.
2. The room or space complies with the following
requirements:
2.1. The return air shall be taken from a
room or space having a volume exceeding
1 cubic foot for each 10 Btu/h (9.6
L/W) of combined input rating of all
fuel-burning appliances therein.
2.2. The volume of supply air discharged
back into the same space shall be
approximately equal to the volume of
return air taken from the space.
2.3. Return-air inlets shall not be located
within 10 feet (3048 mm) of any appliance
firebox or draft hood in the same
room or space.
3. Rooms or spaces containing solid-fuel burning
appliances, provided that return-air inlets are
located not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from
the firebox of such appliances.
M1602.3 Inlet opening protection. Outdoor air inlets shall be
covered with screens having openings that are not less than
1/4-inch (6 mm) and not greater than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm).

I'm just willing to bet his return has no connection to his attic other than closed piping through it. ( unless it has holes in the duct that need repair)

what is your basis to think return air comes from the attic by intention?

[Big Studly]

I'm just willing to bet his return has no connection to his attic other than closed piping through it. ( unless it has holes in the duct that need repair)

I did highlight it, that is straight out of the Residential Code, word for word, copied and pasted. You can not have return air from the garage in a residental HVAC unit, period. It has nothing to do with the attic. Those units are PTAC units where it is 100% return air from the space they are located, if it is located in the garage, it makes the return 100% from the garage, which you can't do according to what I highlighted. I know how they work, I have used them for data centers as axillary cooling for equipment that was added. Not only that, I did run across ASHRAE Standard 62.2, which is the equivalent of 62.1 for low rise residential homes. I didn't read it, but there is a requirement for fresh air for homes; therefore, again, those units would be against code...two codes in fact now.

[jyro]

lol
"period"
followed by

Exceptions:
1. The fuel-burning appliance is a direct-vent
appliance or an appliance not requiring a vent in
accordance with Section M1801.1 or Chapter
24.
2. The room or space complies with the following
requirements:
2.1. The return air shall be taken from a
room or space having a volume exceeding
1 cubic foot for each 10 Btu/h (9.6
L/W) of combined input rating of all
fuel-burning appliances therein.
2.2. The volume of supply air discharged
back into the same space shall be
approximately equal to the volume of
return air taken from the space

after reading through ASHRAE Standard 62.2, I found it has a provision for air infiltration to fulfill the requirement for fresh air, I bet that leaky garage door would provide that.

[Big Studly]

lol
"period"
followed by

Exceptions:
1. The fuel-burning appliance is a direct-vent
appliance or an appliance not requiring a vent in
accordance with Section M1801.1 or Chapter
24.
2. The room or space complies with the following
requirements:
2.1. The return air shall be taken from a
room or space having a volume exceeding
1 cubic foot for each 10 Btu/h (9.6
L/W) of combined input rating of all
fuel-burning appliances therein.
2.2. The volume of supply air discharged
back into the same space shall be
approximately equal to the volume of
return air taken from the space

after reading through ASHRAE Standard 62.2, I found it has a provision for air infiltration to fulfill the requirement for fresh air, I bet that leaky garage door would provide that.

you bet huh? If you can't prove it, then it isn't true. How do you even know the garage would be at a negative pressure to even allow infiltration? Even if there was infiltration, how do you know it meets the code? There is a specific amount of air required too.

So, now you have to bring in outside air from the unit, which would pressurize the garage because if X is your outside air requirement and Y is your total volume of supply air, then Y-X is your return air. Since Y-X is less than Y, as in not 100%, what you highlighted as an exception does not exist so you can't use the return air from the garage, so you have just gone to a 100% make up air unit and would need an exhaust fan in the garage, which you could not discharge to the attic.

[sonic93]

All right look, I am calling the damn City of Haslet Code Enforcement tomorrow to settle this once and for all.

I have been beaten down by the man enough to know not to try and fight the system and in the case of Code Enforcement it is not easier to ask for forgiveness than it is for permission.

I am not saying that anyone is right or that either side of this argument is wrong. If I can get a permit to have the split a/c units installed in my garage than great, they interpreted it in my favor. If not, than I will find out from the Code Enforcement what my options are and what I will have to do to be granted the permit.

Rest assured I will update you both on this thread. You both make valid points and I am sure you both will agree that if Code Enforcement gives it there blessing than great.

[Big Studly]

All right look, I am calling the damn City of Haslet Code Enforcement tomorrow to settle this once and for all.

I have been beaten down by the man enough to know not to try and fight the system and in the case of Code Enforcement it is not easier to ask for forgiveness than it is for permission.

I am not saying that anyone is right or that either side of this argument is wrong. If I can get a permit to have the split a/c units installed in my garage than great, they interpreted it in my favor. If not, than I will find out from the Code Enforcement what my options are and what I will have to do to be granted the permit.

Rest assured I will update you both on this thread. You both make valid points and I am sure you both will agree that if Code Enforcement gives it there blessing than great.

yea, if they say go for it, then great, that is just the way I was interpreting the code, that is all.

[jyro]

So, now you have to bring in outside air from the unit, which would pressurize the garage because if X is your outside air requirement and Y is your total volume of supply air, then Y-X is your return air. Since Y-X is less than Y, as in not 100%, what you highlighted as an exception does not exist so you can't use the return air from the garage, so you have just gone to a 100% make up air unit and would need an exhaust fan in the garage, which you could not discharge to the attic.

this whole thread I've just been ringing your bell. I know how Engineers are, lol.

read the code again, right after the no garage returns, it list exceptions so you can't really say , "no garage returns" if it meets an exception and it appears to.

exception number 2.2. The volume of supply air discharged back into the same space shall be approximately equal to the volume of return air taken from the space.
if you draw air from any space and return it to the same space, it's allowed. garage or not. I realize that dosen't supply makeup air required by 62.2 unless you do a pressure test on the garage.

[sonic93]

Seems the code enforcement gal is off today. She has an email from me in her in box I am sure of it though. As soon as she gets back to me on my questions I will relay the info. Now this will be for Haslet specifically.

[sonic93]

After a dozen phone calls to seven different phone numbers and a few emails I finally got a hold of the correct person.

No Code violation to install a split unit A/C system in a garage inside the city limits of Ft Worth. My home is in Unincorporated Tarrant County and these facts were gathered from Thomas Cooper, Code Enforcement (Residential Air Conditioning), Tarrant County.


No permit required to install the A/C

Only permit needed is for the electrical work.

Each A/C will require it's own 110v breaker.

Okay so now to find an A/C guy who will install two split unit a/c systems for me.

[sonic93]

Just ordered a single 2 ton unit with heat pump. I am hoping to get it installed and up and running before I get home next Friday.

[jyro]

Just ordered a single 2 ton unit with heat pump. I am hoping to get it installed and up and running before I get home next Friday.

dual filters is nice. 2 returns, if your doing a attic filter, ask for a e-z filter base, makes changing the filter a snap and it has a rail that can be removed so you can use a 2" thick filter if you want. you really can't have too much filter area or filtered return vents.

[sonic93]

Split unit A/C is installed and up and running. Set on 72 it is cooling down just nicely. I am using two fans to help move the air around a little more though. I am going to replace those with two cheap ceiling fans in the future.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q313/robertbarton76015/DSC01757.jpg

With it running with the doors closed for less than 2 hours we have acheived a 72-77 degree temp throughout the 900sqft garage. It is actually cooler than the inside of the house.

I think attic insulation ($200 with the hopper) is next on the list.

[jyro]

Split unit A/C is installed and up and running. Set on 72 it is cooling down just nicely.
I have several of those units in service, not one problem in 12 years.
That one is remote control too right?

and for bigstudley, oh God, you're going to kill everyone in the house and the code police will be there Monday to condem your residence