hard water spots

[Nissanx]

How do you get rid of them on the paint surface on cars? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Ive tryed clay bar, wax, rubbing compound. Is a high speed buffer necessary?

[Nick Chapman]

Not sure which clay you tried, but I'm going to assume you just used some over the counter type stuff from Autozone or Orielly's. Usually, that stuff is pretty weak, you can try a little more aggressive clay from a detail supply store. Some people have good luck using vinegar also, although it's never really worked right for me. If it's really bad, buffing may be your only choice.

[5.0_CJ]

Not sure which clay you tried, but I'm going to assume you just used some over the counter type stuff from Autozone or Orielly's. Usually, that stuff is pretty weak, you can try a little more aggressive clay from a detail supply store. Some people have good luck using vinegar also, although it's never really worked right for me. If it's really bad, buffing may be your only choice.

as a caveat to that, most o'reilly's have a full meguiars catalog they can order from behind the counter, and you can get the heavier compounds/bars that way.

[Nick Chapman]

as a caveat to that, most o'reilly's have a full meguiars catalog they can order from behind the counter, and you can get the heavier compounds/bars that way.

Yeah, forgot about that. Thanks for pointing that out CJ.

Also, inspect the water spots up close. I've worked on several vehicles where the water spots actually etched into the clear coat. If this happens, clay won't do very much for you.

Nick

[BadCompany V.P WS6]

Gosh, be so very careful with a more abbrasive clay bar...PLEASE.

I've seen too many folks grab the red clay from like English color or wherever and think they know what they are doing and put so many deep scratches into the paint. I've had to correct so many of these it's ridiculous.

I would honestly start with the blue or yellow clay for novice users, and work your way up. The red stuff is very abbrasive for someone not knowing what they are doing.

I would try some 3m Perfect it II with a DA and a yellow lc pad. Follow up with a swirl cutter/Mernzerna SIP on a orange pad, follow up with a good polish on a blue or black pad.

Hope this helps.

[89gt-stanger]

Gosh, be so very careful with a more abbrasive clay bar...PLEASE.

I've seen too many folks grab the red clay from like English color or wherever and think they know what they are doing and put so many deep scratches into the paint. I've had to correct so many of these it's ridiculous.

I would honestly start with the blue or yellow clay for novice users, and work your way up. The red stuff is very abbrasive for someone not knowing what they are doing.

I would try some 3m Perfect it II with a DA and a yellow lc pad. Follow up with a swirl cutter/Mernzerna SIP on a orange pad, follow up with a good polish on a blue or black pad.

Hope this helps.

Please, do not use an orange pad.

I only use red clay if I am going to be doing defect removal. It will almost always leave marring. Blue would work fine if these were above surface spots, but I believe they are etchings.

I would say use Meguiars 105/yellow. 21/red(LC). Better to let Nick do it. I just received a red LC pad, and love it.

[Nissanx]

thanks alot guys. I will take that advice.

[BadCompany V.P WS6]

Please, do not use an orange pad.

I only use red clay if I am going to be doing defect removal. It will almost always leave marring. Blue would work fine if these were above surface spots, but I believe they are etchings.

I would say use Meguiars 105/yellow. 21/red(LC). Better to let Nick do it. I just received a red LC pad, and love it.

Elaborate a little please.

I've been using these pads for quiet some time and have had no problems and have always netted amazing results.

If I'm not mistaken...Steve from TC uses the same combination.

[Nick Chapman]

Everyone gets different results with pads depending on the paint they are working with, product choice, and the amount of pressure they are using on the machine. Both of you guys are correct, but for a novice, I'd say to stay away from the heavy cutting pads on a DA. They can lead to more problems than you started with if you're not careful.

Just my $0.02

Nick

[BadCompany V.P WS6]

Everyone gets different results with pads depending on the paint they are working with, product choice, and the amount of pressure they are using on the machine. Both of you guys are correct, but for a novice, I'd say to stay away from the heavy cutting pads on a DA. They can lead to more problems than you started with if you're not careful.

Just my $0.02

Nick

I agree, Nick.

I'll give you a ring Saturday if time allows.

[89gt-stanger]

Elaborate a little please.

I've been using these pads for quiet some time and have had no problems and have always netted amazing results.

If I'm not mistaken...Steve from TC uses the same combination.

Ehh.. I just find that the orange ones aren't that useful. They do not finish down as well as I would like (leave trails), and to me, are overkill for working on anything except oxidation. I can get like results using a yellow 6.5" Meguiars, shaved down to the size of my backing plate. I now finish with a blue LC, and apply sealant/wax with a red. (Nick, thanks for recommending the red pad!) I am partial to Meguiars though.

[Nick Chapman]

Orange isn't a finishing pad, which is why it doesn't finish down well for you. Orange is a cutting pad. You must follow up with some type of finishing pad and product after you use an orange pad.

Nick

[89gt-stanger]

Orange isn't a finishing pad, which is why it doesn't finish down well for you. Orange is a cutting pad. You must follow up with some type of finishing pad and product after you use an orange pad.

Nick

I understand. What I meant, is that with the yellow, I can get rid of defects, and finish down nicely with the yellow. The yellow leaves less, more shallow buffer trails than an orange pad.

How's that motor coming along?

[Nick Chapman]

I understand. What I meant, is that with the yellow, I can get rid of defects, and finish down nicely with the yellow. The yellow leaves less, more shallow buffer trails than an orange pad.

How's that motor coming along?

Thats because the yellow is a softer pad. The orange will actually remove more defect that the yellow, but it will also leave more buffer swirls. So if you ever have a vehicle that a yellow pad won't help, then you break out the orange, or the maroon from Meguiar's. But you must follow up with a softer pad/product combo.

Motor is getting there. Going to pull the old motor out Monday evening. Not sure when I'll go back in with the new motor. Guess it all depends on when I get all my parts, and how well everything goes together, and knowing my luck here lately, it'll be fighting me all the way :(