Weight of Fox parts?

[NEAL]

How much do these weigh?

Fenders?

Nose (stock LX)?

Doors?

Hatchback (stock w/glass)?

What's the lightest that you've seen a fox Hatch weigh?

[wolfy]

hmmmm...

do i even wanna ask?

[slowbrick]

I put my car on a diet and got it down to 3000+ driver. If i went bracket racing I know it could get down to 2700. Only thing fiberglass is the hood.

[Jetfast50]

The express was 2550 with no cage.

[NEAL]

hmmmm...

do i even wanna ask?
It rhymes with Smarbon Kyber:D

I can do all of it for under 2K.

Doors=17 lbs. each
Hatch= 15 lbs.
Fenders=3 lbs. each
Nose 3.5 lbs.

Thassalotta weight.

[wolfy]

It rhymes with Smarbon Kyber:D

I can do all of it for under 2K.

Doors=17 lbs. each
Hatch= 15 lbs.
Fenders=3 lbs. each
Nose 3.5 lbs.

Thassalotta weight.

LOL, i wondered if that's where you were going with this. that is alot of weight. there's alot more to be taken out of thumpr. go for ounces, you'll get pounds...

you know who's car might be getting a makover soon too...he's actually talking about letting me fix the wiring...the right way.

[Justa4banger]

THIS WAS COPPIED FROM ANOTHER WEBSITE AND BASED AROUND A 4 CYL MUSTANG, but you guys can get an idea.........

Originally posted by Bugzturbo:
Weight Loss 101


Ok, here are the details on weight removal from the "Sawzall Performance" `91 LX. Now keep in mind that this info is "to the best of my knowledge" and is no way intended to be guaranteed 100% accurate as I was using a standard bathroom style scale. However, it's a good reference point to those wondering what kind of weight can be removed from a Fox body Stang. While I was not able to weigh the car before all this, the NADA listed curb weight for a `91 LX hatchback is 2824. Race weight according to the scale at Englishtown Raceway was 2230#!! Below is a list of all parts removed and what they weighed. Parts that we replaced with lighter parts are noted as such. I was not able to weigh the original wheels vs Draglites yet, but I will. I will also get more pics of the car in it's "completed" state (or should be "incomplete" state?? I did get pics, but they came out so dark I could not lighten them up enough to make them clear. Anyways, here's the list, sit back, grab a beer (or a sawzall) and enjoy.
--Interior:
11# - carpet
17# - carpet insulation padding
36# - passenger seat
38# - rear seat assy (bottom, backs and support bars underneath)
13# - center console w/ radio
16# - door panels with armrests (8# per side)
6# - hatch carpet
11# - hatch area insulation pad
22# - rear quarter trim panels (11# per side)
4# - hatch area rear trim panels (2 pieces that cover tail light area)
2# - hatch underside trim panel
14# - "Bag o' crap" (headliner and sound deadener glued to the floor, footwells and hatch area. I was unable to remove the deadener under the rear seat area as it was glued to well from the exhaust "curing" it and I didn't have the time to screw with a heat gun)
40# - "misc interior" (seatbelts, airbag, a-pillar and roof trim pieces and other small misc items that were too small to weigh individually)
21# - unneeded wiring (PW harnesses and rear wiring section to tail panel)
--Dash Area:
25# - heaterbox (complete with both cores, some lines and cables)
8# - ductwork for HVAC
2# - glovebox
4# - metal kneeguard & cover (found under steering column ONLY on airbag equipped cars)
13# - firewall insulation pad

Total interior - 303# (HOLY ****!!! I NEVER though this **** was that heavy)

--Doors:
7# - impact beam
6# - power window motor and regulator
2# - window track and guide bar
5# - inner door frame structure
7.5#- door glass with metal bracket (9# removed, new plexi window was 1.5#)
1.5#- mirror

Total doors - 58# (above weights were PER DOOR)

--Structural:
4# - hatch underbracing panel (this was VERY disappointing)
2# - roof crossmember (just a brace bolted across roof panel inside car)
10# - fiberglass front bumper
10# - front bumper shocks
34# - steel rear bumper
11# - rear bumper shocks

Total structural: 71#

--Underhood:

18# - PS system (pump, bracket w/ tensioner, lines)
24# - AC system (compressor, bracket, lines, condenser)
14# - exhaust manifold (manifold weighed 20# and was replaced with 6# Tri-Y header)
4# - charcoal canister, bracket and hoses
6# - airbox and bracket (replaced with 1/4# K&N cone)

Total underhood: 66# (this was kind of disappointing, but it was all in the nose where it counts)

-- Misc ****:

3# - cruise control unit
2# - washer bottle and hose
3# - inner fenderwells (for the pair)
25# - spare tire (full size temp spare)
25# - hood (steel hood was 40# and replaced with 15# glass hood)
10# - driveshaft (stock shaft was 26# with damper, 21# without damper and was replaced with 16# alum FMS shaft)
12# - wiper motor and linkage
11# - front swaybar and endlinks
13# - hatch glass (16# glass replaced with 3# plexi window)


Total misc: 104#

GRAND TOTAL: 602# !!!!!

Now keep in mind that this car is now a rolling tin can and is in no way streetable. Some of these mods are race car only mods such as the rear wiring (you need tail lights on the street, but I did leave the 3rd brakelight in the spoiler working). However, as a race only car, complete and total gutting was the goal. Due to lack of time, I did skip a few things and there is more weight to be removed. Hole saw the cowl panel should be worth a few pounds, and cutting out the spare tire well and replacing it with a piece of thin sheetmetal should be worth at least 10#. Using plexi for the windshield should also drop another 15# or so. I used the stock drivers seat and seatbelt, so switching to a poly style race seat should drop another 25# too. Also keep in mind though that this car will only be allowed to run down to 12.0's since it has no cage. It is also an NA 2.3L car, so the engine is about 60# lighter total (add weight of cast E6 manifold, turbo, lines, IC, ducting, etc). So, for a turbo powered race car capable of running 10's, you must add 200# to this weight. Also, if you're serious about it, swapping in a tubular K-frame is worth another 40-50 off the nose of the car. Some of the above parts may be different weights than your too. The swaybar on my car for instance was the puny one, so a GT, SVO or TC bar is prolly about 5# more. `79-86 cars will have a steel front bumper too, which is prolly 25# heavier than my fiberglass unit.
Now, some advice. I just disconnected the PS rack and looped the line for "low dollar" purposes. If you have a street car, I DO NOT recommend this. Get an actual manual rack. This thing is a BITCH to steer, and it's super light with 165 tires up front. It's fine for the dragstrip, but if steering is involved, get a manual rack. Also, if you have a street car, at least leave the carpet in. This thing is a rolling echo chamber and is damn near unbearable to drive. Coming down the return road sucks having to listen to all the rattles and ****. I could not imagine driving a car this gutted on the street.
Well, I hope you all learned something from this. I know I did. For one, don't "guestimate", as you're probably wrong I know I was on a few things. Door bars only 7# each? Damn, I could have sworn they had to be 20# a pop. Second, throw the stuff out as soon as you remove it because you won't believe how much room a car takes up when it's in a pile on the other side of the garage. And third, DO NOT.... I REPEAT!!!...... DO NOT do this in your
buddies garage for 2 weeks straight when he has a girlfriend who "doesn't understand" hot rodding, racing or anything else having to do with modifying cars other than putting in gas and turning the key ESPECIALLY when she is also YOUR ex-girlfriend. He is now grounded from the garage for a month And I'm banned from the house for that month too Good thing she hasn't gone behind the garage yet to find we stashed the Stang back there while she was at work

[92Notch]

302paf had a hatch back in the day that was 2560lbs with a stock k member