Exterior painting

[8mpg]

Girlfriends dad wants to paint their house this spring/summer. The paint is probably 30 years old and you can tell. Lots of the wood trim needs to be replaced. Any suggestions on the type of wood for window trim?

What primer do you suggest? Type of paint? We are planning on pressure washing all of the painted surfaces on the exterior before the primer and allowing a day or so to dry before priming. Any other suggestions? Also, when the guys painted my parents house, they just used a 24" putty knife to keep from overspraying...is this a good idea for a non-professional painter? I dont want to accidentally spray the damn brink and shingles. I was thinking of hand painting all round the brick and shingles to avoid overspray.

Also, their small metal storage shed looks like ass. It needs to be repainted. It has a lot of surface rust. Is there an easy to repaint without sanding the rust? Not looking for perfection on that thing...just figure might as well spray it when we do the house.

[BlackSnake1996]

Its always best to match the existing wood trim, but if You have to replace it all, I particularly like the spruce. It holds paint much longer than the traditional pine. Cedar is another option, but the spruce is still better in my opinion.

As far as a primer, we use almost exclusively the Zinzer 1-2-3. Its a latex primer that is really the best I have ever used in my nearly 28 years of painting. Also, we like to prime the replacement wood all around before we install it. Gives it a little more protection.

As far as to what type of paint to use...There are several great paints right now that Sherwin Williams is offering.

1. The Super Paint exterior satin is a great paint that has a 25 year warranty when 2 coats are applied. I highly suggest applying 2 coats on most all exterior painting.

2. Resilience exterior satin is another top of the line product that can be used in high humidity and even 2 hours before rain. Comes with a life time warranty.

3. Duration exterior satin is the top dog, and the price is right there with it. Worth every penny though. This product is self priming and also carries a life time warranty.

As far as using a 24" shield? Damn thats small. The ones we use are about 3' and you still need to be very careful. The best bet for someone that is not a painter, but wants to spray is to use cardboard. Just stuff it between the shingles and the drip edge. You can buy a case of cardboard shields at Sherwin Williams too.

To avoid spraying the brick, you can use a masker with 9" paper. Its a hand held tape and paper dispenser. Just run it on the brick under the bottom edge of the wood trim.

Rust....Ther just is no magic potion for rust. Unfortunately, it should always be removed, and sanding it is just about the easiest method that I know. Then prime the metal with a red oxide primer. You can get this in a spray can from Sherwin Williams as well.

I hope this helps you with your project. Feel free to send me a Pm if you have any further questions that you need voiced, and I'll shoot ya a # to reach me.
Good Luck,
Wayne

[8mpg]

Thanks Wayne!! I was hoping you would reply. I will definitely take your advice.

Thanks again
Tim

[BlackSnake1996]

Thanks Wayne!! I was hoping you would reply. I will definitely take your advice.

Thanks again
Tim
Any time Tim. I forgot to mention, but the Zinzer 1-2-3 primer is not available at SW. I buy it from Home Depot. SW has a primer called A-100 acrylic primer that is pretty damn good too. I like them both, but for some reason or another, I just feel more comfortable with the 1-2-3.

[mikeb]

Whatever you do don't buy the crappy "behr" home depot exterior paint. I painted the back of my house with it and a couple of years later it is in poor shape again :mad:

[bullet]

Blacksnake,

If you were going to convert oil painted interior trim and kitchen cabinets to latex, would you still use the bullseye 123 or would you use the BIN ?

Also which primer would you use for new wainscotting that is bare wood ?

[BlackSnake1996]

Blacksnake,

If you were going to convert oil painted interior trim and kitchen cabinets to latex, would you still use the bullseye 123 or would you use the BIN ?

Also which primer would you use for new wainscotting that is bare wood ?
I really don't like to make the change at all if I don't have to. Sherwin Williams has a waterborn enamel called Pro Classic that is sup post to adhere to oil. But if I were to prime (and its a good ideal) I'd use the Zinsser Cover Stain, and then the Pro Classic waterborn enamel.

The 1-2-3 in no good for that type of application.
The BIN is a good primer for that application, but I prefer the Cover Stain. It dries faster and requires no sanding.
http://www.zinsser.com/images/coverstain.jpg

[bullet]

funny you mention pro classic, i just got done spraying my kitchen cabinets with it and did not prime them and shot it over oil. About 4 years ago I was jacking around and decided to paint some proclassic over oil so I sanded it with 220 and then wiped it with crown liquid sander. I expected it to chip and peel and was very surprised that I could even run my fingernail on it and it would not peel. When I asked the local SW about it, they told me I had to use a primer under it when going over oil or it would. Before I sprayed my cabinets, I tested my theory again by sanding a drawer with 220 and wiping with crown liquid deglosser and then painted it. I then took it to a painter and told him i primed one side and not the other and for him to try to scratch it off and tell me which was which. He tried both sides and said it acted like the whole drawer had been primed because it would not peel off. He was highly surprised when I told him I did not prime any of it. Do you ever put proclassic over oil without priming ? Why do you think it sticks so much better than other latex brands ? I was reading on the back and proclassic is the only latex paint i have ever seen that has mineral spirits in it, and my theory is that somehow that is what helps it melt into the oil and stick so much better.


What zinsser primer would you use over bare wood wainstcoting paneling that is going to have a latex finish coat ?