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AbecX
10-01-2007, 07:32 AM
2005 Yamaha R1 - 13k miles

What oil and filter should I get? Any particular air filter that I should purchase as well. What other items should I have looked at?

TIA

I should probably check r1 forums, but I don't know who to trust there.
stunter bob
10-01-2007, 07:34 AM
get a gallon of yamalube 10w40 and a stock filter from yamaha
and if you want to chage the filter...go with a k&n..stay away from bmc filters
BottleRocket
10-01-2007, 09:31 AM
You can trust me. Hell I changed the oil on the damn thing for 2 years. Always used Castrol 10w40 or 20w50 based on the outside temp and a Wix filter. Never had any probs
HobieF3
10-01-2007, 10:19 AM
You can trust me. Hell I changed the oil on the damn thing for 2 years. Always used Castrol 10w40 or 20w50 based on the outside temp and a Wix filter. Never had any probs

Since bikes have a wet clutch and the transmissions and engines share the same oil I always use the oil/filters recommended by the manufacturer. Some people debate over the ingredients in motorcycle oil and their effect on the clutch and transmission parts, but I feel it's a safe/sorry issue. It may cost a couple bucks more than regular oil, but I'll spend the money. Straight cut gears are hard on moving parts and while bikes (most of 'em anyways) don't see as much mileage as a car they see LOTS of rpms and are usually beat on most of their lives. I like going with what the OEM says to for peace of mind.

EDIT - one more thing, don't over lube the chain, I will have to kill you if you do, sorry, but it's a rule I must follow. If you lube the chain with wd-40 I will have to kill you TWICE :mad: :eek: :D
[CS]ls1haha
10-01-2007, 12:33 PM
You can trust me. Hell I changed the oil on the damn thing for 2 years. Always used Castrol 10w40 or 20w50 based on the outside temp and a Wix filter. Never had any probs

Why use two oils based on outside temperature? Does that not defeat the purpose of a dual weight oil. Do you know what the 10w 40 means?

I have seen this arise often regarding motorcycle oil. I don't understand the point.
stephen4785
10-01-2007, 03:00 PM
I use rotella T sythetic(13$ at walmart) and an oem filter. I posted a link a while back about the different motorcycle oil filters and NEVER USE A FRAM!
hers the link to the thread http://www.dfwstangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=302703
Whitebread
10-01-2007, 09:55 PM
don't over lube the chain, I will have to kill you if you do, sorry, but it's a rule I must follow. If you lube the chain with wd-40 I will have to kill you TWICE :mad: :eek: :D

I clean it with WD and a rag, warm it up then wax it..
BottleRocket
10-02-2007, 05:01 PM
ls1haha']Why use two oils based on outside temperature? Does that not defeat the purpose of a dual weight oil. Do you know what the 10w 40 means?

I have seen this arise often regarding motorcycle oil. I don't understand the point.

I am just following dealer recomendations. They held the warranty on the bike, so if I had a problem with the motor, I used the oil they told me to. Not my problem
lowthreeohz
10-02-2007, 05:03 PM
I run MX4T and a K&N Filter. I tried Repsol in my RR, and INSTAFUCKINGLY picked up the 'clutch basket grumble'... fuckin junk.
MACH '69
10-04-2007, 02:55 PM
I use rotella T sythetic(13$ at walmart) and an oem filter. I posted a link a while back about the different motorcycle oil filters and NEVER USE A FRAM!
hers the link to the thread http://www.dfwstangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=302703

X2 anything but Fram! Pictures all over the web of cut open ones. Scary lookin'.
evil jose
10-04-2007, 04:09 PM
Since bikes have a wet clutch and the transmissions and engines share the same oil I always use the oil/filters recommended by the manufacturer. Some people debate over the ingredients in motorcycle oil and their effect on the clutch and transmission parts, but I feel it's a safe/sorry issue. It may cost a couple bucks more than regular oil, but I'll spend the money. Straight cut gears are hard on moving parts and while bikes (most of 'em anyways) don't see as much mileage as a car they see LOTS of rpms and are usually beat on most of their lives. I like going with what the OEM says to for peace of mind.

EDIT - one more thing, don't over lube the chain, I will have to kill you if you do, sorry, but it's a rule I must follow. If you lube the chain with wd-40 I will have to kill you TWICE :mad: :eek: :D

From what I remember, you have to use oil with friction modifiers in it. Forgot what the symbol on the bottle should look like, I'd have to take a look at what I have at home.

I'm guilty of using WD-40 in the past but I've heard that it's bad with the o rings on the chains (dries them up) and it's recommended using kerosene instead. Can anyone confirm this? I read it in a magazine somewhere.

Other than that, I've been using a paper (OEM) air filter until recently. Just switched to a K&N and I want to get my bike dyno'd to see if it changed the AFR much. I've also been using Yamaha oil filters but I've thought about going with one of those reusable oil filters or going with a K&N brand oil filter.
lowthreeohz
10-04-2007, 04:15 PM
From what I remember, you have to use oil with friction modifiers in it. Forgot what the symbol on the bottle should look like, I'd have to take a look at what I have at home.

I'm guilty of using WD-40 in the past but I've heard that it's bad with the o rings on the chains (dries them up) and it's recommended using kerosene instead. Can anyone confirm this? I read it in a magazine somewhere.

Other than that, I've been using a paper (OEM) air filter until recently. Just switched to a K&N and I want to get my bike dyno'd to see if it changed the AFR much. I've also been using Yamaha oil filters but I've thought about going with one of those reusable oil filters or going with a K&N brand oil filter.

No, you want the oil WITHOUT friction modifiers! that's what burns up clutches!
evil jose
10-04-2007, 04:21 PM
No, you want the oil WITHOUT friction modifiers! that's what burns up clutches!

I knew it was something like that. Like I said, I'd have to take a look at the case of oil I have at home. I know I've got the right oil at home, just mixed up the facts :D
lowthreeohz
10-04-2007, 04:30 PM
I think it's the triangle logo thing you don't want on your oil... i think. (not a strong feature of mine)
evil jose
10-04-2007, 04:43 PM
I think it's the triangle logo thing you don't want on your oil... i think. (not a strong feature of mine)

I hear ya ;)
Goose1
10-04-2007, 04:58 PM
I run MX4T and a K&N Filter. I tried Repsol in my RR, and INSTAFUCKINGLY picked up the 'clutch basket grumble'... fuckin junk.


Same here i use the MX4t and K&N, i love the K&N i can change the oil on my R6 in 10min w/out having take off nothing but radiator coolant cover and the K&N makes it nice access too get off w/ the nut on the end.
89stangGT
10-04-2007, 05:35 PM
get a gallon of yamalube 10w40 and a stock filter from yamaha
and if you want to chage the filter...go with a k&n..stay away from bmc filters

was that your bike I saw over at Bully Dog today? sure looked like it.
ThreeFingerPete
10-04-2007, 07:04 PM
Whatever you use, make sure it is not an EC oil. There will be a badge that says "EC: energy conserving" on it, those are the friction modifiers that Jose was talking about that kill clutcheys.
BottleRocket
10-04-2007, 07:14 PM
Whatever you use, make sure it is not an EC oil. There will be a badge that says "EC: energy conserving" on it, those are the friction modifiers that Jose was talking about that kill clutcheys.


x2. its a circle on the back.
http://www.bardahl.ca/images/API.GIF

If the spot that says "energy conserving is blank like this youre good:
http://www.dansmc.com/oilright.jpg