How to use buffer

[Skidmark]

I got an electric buffer for xmas an i've never used one before. it came with a foam pad and a cloth one. do most people apply the wax by hand then take off with the cloth wheel

[Nick Chapman]

I got an electric buffer for xmas an i've never used one before. it came with a foam pad and a cloth one. do most people apply the wax by hand then take off with the cloth wheel



Is this a rotary buffer? Can you post a pic or a model #?

Makes a fifference on how you use it.

Nick

[NeedleSharp]

i got the exact same question... its a Vector 10" Waxxpro

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i299/needlesharp/12-28-06_1402.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i299/needlesharp/12-28-06_1401.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>

its and orbital... it came with a cotton pad and it seems soft but should i use it?? i was gonna just go buy a new meguires one but i didnt think they sold 10" ones... also i dont know how the hell to use it like this other guy :o

[austin]

you can take a buffing class/course, if not just make sure you run it at a low speed, and make damn sure you do NOT burn your clearcoat (by having it turned up to high)..........

[NeedleSharp]

you can take a buffing class/course, if not just make sure you run it at a low speed, and make damn sure you do NOT burn your clearcoat (by having it turned up to high)..........

hhmm.. there is no variable speed button??... On/Off! lol

[Skidmark]

Is this a rotary buffer? Can you post a pic or a model #?

Makes a fifference on how you use it.

Nick


Thanks for the response, I was hoping you'd post up in here... I'm very new to this and to tell you the truth i've never really taken care of a car's paint like I should.

This is what I have:

[Phillystang]

You will want to clay bar the car before using the buffer or you will swirl the paint.

[Yellowstang]

If they have just one setting, like on or off, you won't burn the clear coat, they do not spin fast enough.

Wash the car first, claybar if necessary (probably is necessary), apply wax, remove with a white cotton terry cloth, then buff it with the buffer. If you have a spray like Zaino, you can use it afterwards to buff it to a nice clean shine!

Depending on what wax you use, the small area that one cloth will provide is not enough to remove a car's worth of wax, that is why I say use a terry cloth to remove the wax first.

[fordracing19]

I have a nice dewalt buffer but I am to scared to use it. I feel I would do way more harm than good. :o

[Txstang1]

i got the exact same question... its a Vector 10" Waxxpro

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i299/needlesharp/12-28-06_1402.jpg (http://photobucket.com/)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i299/needlesharp/12-28-06_1401.jpg (http://photobucket.com/)

its and orbital... it came with a cotton pad and it seems soft but should i use it?? i was gonna just go buy a new meguires one but i didnt think they sold 10" ones... also i dont know how the hell to use it like this other guy :oI have one just like that. Just wash your car, wax it with wax of your choice and use the cloth pad to tak the wax off. that "polisher" you have wont burn the paint or leave swirl marks. I Did paint and body work for 7 years.

Those things are real nice for waxing your car. Also, once you're done taking the wax off.......go around the whole car with a cotton cloth to get the spots that the polisher wouldnt get to.

[NeedleSharp]

I have one just like that. Just wash your car, wax it with wax of your choice and use the cloth pad to tak the wax off. that "polisher" you have wont burn the paint or leave swirl marks. I Did paint and body work for 7 years.

Those things are real nice for waxing your car. Also, once you're done taking the wax off.......go around the whole car with a cotton cloth to get the spots that the polisher wouldnt get to.

awsome! thanks! as far as swirl removal, should i use an abrasive scratch remover and apply it with the buffer? or do u apply by hand and buff with the buffer?

[Txstang1]

awsome! thanks! as far as swirl removal, should i use an abrasive scratch remover and apply it with the buffer? or do u apply by hand and buff with the buffer?So yuor car currently has swirl marks in it? I f so, I would wax it real good IE put some real elbow grease into it and your the polisher to take it off. If that doesn't get the swirl marks out then the car will need a buffer with a foam pad and some finesse will probably do it. But you will need someone who kows what they are doing. A buffer is a whole other ball game from a polisher. You ruin a paint jkob real quick.

[Yellowstang]

Time for some Zaino swirl remover!

[Nick Chapman]

Neither one of those machines have the power to remove swirls. Do not use anything abrasive with those machines. They are good for applying and removing wax. Thats all, nothing else. Some of them come with a foam pad, and also a microfiber bonnet. Use the foam pad to apply the wax, then slip the bonnet over the foam pad and remove the wax.
An abrasive compound needs the rotating power of a rotary buffer to work correctly. If you use an abrasive compound with either of these machines, you could instill scratches and swirls and not be able to get them out.

If you have swirls, you are going to need something a little more powerful to get them out.

[LT12NV-420]

Time for some Zaino swirl remover!

That shit sucks....Much better products/procedures for removing swirls..

[NeedleSharp]

Neither one of those machines have the power to remove swirls. Do not use anything abrasive with those machines. They are good for applying and removing wax. Thats all, nothing else. Some of them come with a foam pad, and also a microfiber bonnet. Use the foam pad to apply the wax, then slip the bonnet over the foam pad and remove the wax.
An abrasive compound needs the rotating power of a rotary buffer to work correctly. If you use an abrasive compound with either of these machines, you could instill scratches and swirls and not be able to get them out.

If you have swirls, you are going to need something a little more powerful to get them out.

wow so you can use the bare foam to apply the way???... seems kinda harsh to me. like the grey/black part? do you clean the pad afterwards or no?

[Nick Chapman]

wow so you can use the bare foam to apply the way???... seems kinda harsh to me. like the grey/black part? do you clean the pad afterwards or no?



Depends on what they gave you really. Nobody ships the same foam pads as the other guy. Some foam pads are too harsh, and others are just right. To play it safe(if your unsure), buy some more bonnets and apply your wax with one bonnet and remove it with another bonnet. Without seeing it I'm not gonna tell you to put that foam pad on your car.


Nick

[Shizzzzle]

Depends on what they gave you really. Nobody ships the same foam pads as the other guy. Some foam pads are too harsh, and others are just right. To play it safe(if your unsure), buy some more bonnets and apply your wax with one bonnet and remove it with another bonnet. Without seeing it I'm not gonna tell you to put that foam pad on your car.


Nick

Dude you an f'n moron when it comes to detailing! jesus christ how in the hell do you actually "OWN" a detailing and paint polishing shop! lmao!

Dude anything will burn the paint on a car! it doesn't matter if it's a foam pad, wool pad, cloth pad whatever! if the surface your working is getting to hot the clear coat will burn! keep the buffer or waxer/polisher moving dont keep it in one f'n spot! If you wanna get swirls out! You dont need a badass buffer to get it out!

Take some 3000 sand paper and wet sand the entire car! then take a waxer/polisher , or orbital buffer and buff away scrathes will come out easy!

the best way to make a car shine! is to sand the car! if you really want the car to look good then all you do is take some 1200/1500 grit DA paper or wet paper, when the surface starts to look less orange peely then your good, make sure you dont sand through the damn clear coat! (If you dont know what your doing? DONT DO IT) you will be buying yourself a new paint job! :D anyways after that 3000 the entire car! buff the entire car with an abrasive compound and wool pad! then take some finishing glaze and a foam pad! and yes you'll need a orbital buffer for this! this ususally takes about 3 hrs to do an entire car! for someone that doesnt know what there doing it'll prob take a full day or two! lol

And btw! someone who doesnt sand to actually get a car looking real good! doesnt know what the fuck they are doing! If you wanna sit there and say you do by using just a f'n buffer to get scrathes and swirls out! Then you are a complete fucking idiot! the best way is sanding and buffing!

and n737nc here that thinks vipers use a special kind of clear coat then any other car's out there on the road cause "vipers paint is real hard" so it took him awhile to detail and fish the car!

DUDE FOR FUCKS SAKE! 15 HRS! ON A VIPER?!?! ITS NOT A FUCKING LIMO HUMMER! HOLY SHIT! The damn car is not big at all and what fuck u gotta clean inside? a dash? two floor boards? two seats? 3000 the entire car, 1500/2000 wet if you have to? buff, goddamn 2 - 3 hrs total!

You are a TOOL MY FRIEND! A TOOL! lol

[Skidmark]

:eek:

[Nick Chapman]

Dude you an f'n moron when it comes to detailing! jesus christ how in the hell do you actually "OWN" a detailing and paint polishing shop! lmao!
I think my work speaks for itself.


Dude anything will burn the paint on a car! it doesn't matter if it's a foam pad, wool pad, cloth pad whatever! if the surface your working is getting to hot the clear coat will burn! keep the buffer or waxer/polisher moving dont keep it in one f'n spot! If you wanna get swirls out! You dont need a badass buffer to get it out!


Yes, this is true. Where do you see that I have said anything otherwise? He was talking about applying wax with a $25 random orbital polisher. He wasn't sure how to use it. There are a lot of foam pads that are entirely to harsh to use to apply a wax(and your calling me the moron?). I simply suggested that he get another bonnet, and use that to apply the wax, then use another bonnet to remove the wax.


Take some 3000 sand paper and wet sand the entire car! then take a waxer/polisher , or orbital buffer and buff away scrathes will come out easy!

the best way to make a car shine! is to sand the car! if you really want the car to look good then all you do is take some 1200/1500 grit DA paper or wet paper, when the surface starts to look less orange peely then your good, make sure you dont sand through the damn clear coat! (If you dont know what your doing? DONT DO IT) you will be buying yourself a new paint job! :D anyways after that 3000 the entire car! buff the entire car with an abrasive compound and wool pad! then take some finishing glaze and a foam pad! and yes you'll need a orbital buffer for this! this ususally takes about 3 hrs to do an entire car! for someone that doesnt know what there doing it'll prob take a full day or two! lol

This guy is asking for advice on how to use a random orbital polisher, and your telling him to wet sand his car? OMFG! That right there is some funny shit! If anybody reading this doesn't know how to use a random orbital polisher, please do not take a piece of sandpaper to your car!


And btw! someone who doesnt sand to actually get a car looking real good! doesnt know what the fuck they are doing! If you wanna sit there and say you do by using just a f'n buffer to get scrathes and swirls out! Then you are a complete fucking idiot! the best way is sanding and buffing!

Are you serious? I mean, come on dude! That is the absolute harshest thing you can do to a cars paint! I perfer my method, least aggressive product/tool to get the job done.


and n737nc here that thinks vipers use a special kind of clear coat then any other car's out there on the road cause "vipers paint is real hard" so it took him awhile to detail and fish the car!

Every paint is different. Some clear coats are hard, and others are not so hard. I never said that Viper's have a special kind of paint. Although, this Viper did have a repaint done to half of the car, and the clear coat on the repaint was extremely harder that the half that was still factory clear.


DUDE FOR FUCKS SAKE! 15 HRS! ON A VIPER?!?! ITS NOT A FUCKING LIMO HUMMER! HOLY SHIT! The damn car is not big at all and what fuck u gotta clean inside? a dash? two floor boards? two seats? 3000 the entire car, 1500/2000 wet if you have to? buff, goddamn 2 - 3 hrs total!

If you feel like rushing your jobs, then more power to you. LIKE I'VE SAID BEFORE! I love what I do, and I would rather take my time getting the car done than to rush the job. This isn't a full time gig for me, I do it because I love to do it. You on the other hand are obviously about quantity, I am about QUALITY!


You are a TOOL MY FRIEND! A TOOL! lol

Your telling people to wet sand their car when they don't even know how to use a $25 polisher, and I'm the tool? Dude, you have done nothing but attack me and I'm sick of it. I have never given anyone bad advice. I have only given safe advice. If someone comes on here asking for instructions on how to use a $25 random orbital polisher, then I am not going to tell them to wet sand their car. Maybe thats your idea of good advice, but not mine. That would be like someone asking about how to change their oil, and you telling them to swap motors!

Why does it matter to you if I spend 2 hours or 30 hours on a car? How does this effect you? The only thing you are doing is trying to attack me, and ruin my business here on this board, and I'm sick of it! You give bad advice, and treat people like they are idiots. If you can do it better and faster, then please, start advertising, and take my business away from me. People see my work, and they love what I do for their cars. As I've said before, if you want your car finished in 2-3 hours, I am not the one for you!

[Nick Chapman]

Take some 3000 sand paper and wet sand the entire car! then take a waxer/polisher , or orbital buffer and buff away scrathes will come out easy!
Here you say that a $25 orbital polisher will remove sanding marks


the best way to make a car shine! is to sand the car! if you really want the car to look good then all you do is take some 1200/1500 grit DA paper or wet paper, when the surface starts to look less orange peely then your good, make sure you dont sand through the damn clear coat! (If you dont know what your doing? DONT DO IT) you will be buying yourself a new paint job! :D anyways after that 3000 the entire car! buff the entire car with an abrasive compound and wool pad! then take some finishing glaze and a foam pad! and yes you'll need a orbital buffer for this! this ususally takes about 3 hrs to do an entire car! for someone that doesnt know what there doing it'll prob take a full day or two! lol


And here you say that you will need a rotarty buffer with a wool pad and an abrasive compound to remove sanding marks? Well, which is it? Random orbital polisher from Wal-Mart for $25 or a $250 rotary buffer with a wool pad?


And your telling me that you can take a car in, wet sand the entire car, buff it out to a pristine finish, wax, clean the interior and have it back to your customer in 2-3 hours, then you must be a freaking amazing man! Please let me know the next time you have a car come in because I want to see this!

[PooterWS6]

Wow, shizzzle couldnt be more of a fucking douche.

Where the fuck did all the detailer rage come from? :confused:

[Txstang1]

Take some 3000 sand paper and wet sand the entire car! then take a waxer/polisher , or orbital buffer and buff away scrathes will come out easy!

hahaha....that some funny ass shit right there, that won't take anytime to get those scratches out with an orbital polisher and wax......lol. Are you serious? What shop do you work at? I wanna stay away!!!! BTW, you gotta be a dumb motherfucker to burn a paint job with a polisher and wax......lmao


And to Skidmark, just take Nick's advice....he knows what he is talking about. I would be reluctant to wet sand any car if I didnt know for sure how much clear coat was on it.:rolleyes:


Gotta love Dfwstangs.

[Skidmark]

hahaha....that some funny ass shit right there, that won't take anytime to get those scratches out with an orbital polisher and wax......lol. Are you serious? What shop do you work at? I wanna stay away!!!! BTW, you gotta be a dumb motherfucker to burn a paint job with a polisher and wax......lmao


And to Skidmark, just take Nick's advice....he knows what he is talking about. I would be reluctant to wet sand any car if I didnt know for sure how much clear coat was on it.:rolleyes:


Gotta love Dfwstangs.

Oh trust me, I would take Nick's word over this newbs anyday of the week.

[CatDaddy]

Wow, shizzzle couldnt be more of a fucking douche.
Agreed!

[NeedleSharp]

lol shizzle thanks for tying to help in your own little asshole way but next time how about you dont attack one of the most respected people on this board... i've seen what nicks done to my brothers mustang and his wifes SUV and it is plain and simply AMAZING. period. who cares if it takes him 2 hours to sand blast and or 2 days to piss the swirls off... he does great work and is very fairly priced.

its jack ass's like this that ruin boards all together... you can critic ppl and say your own opinions without being a total prick. THANKS FOR THE ADVICE NICK i'll be callin you to spend 6 "pointless" hours on my dads truck soon... he used the do it yourself wash alot :eek:

[Shizzzzle]

lol shizzle thanks for tying to help in your own little asshole way but next time how about you dont attack one of the most respected people on this board... i've seen what nicks done to my brothers mustang and his wifes SUV and it is plain and simply AMAZING. period. who cares if it takes him 2 hours to sand blast and or 2 days to piss the swirls off... he does great work and is very fairly priced.

its jack ass's like this that ruin boards all together... you can critic ppl and say your own opinions without being a total prick. THANKS FOR THE ADVICE NICK i'll be callin you to spend 6 "pointless" hours on my dads truck soon... he used the do it yourself wash alot :eek:


simply amazing? well i sure do fucking hope so if it takes him 2 fucking days to work on a car.

[Shizzzzle]

Oh trust me, I would take Nick's word over this newbs anyday of the week.

newb? yeah thats why ive been in the business for alot longer then nick has because i dont know what the fuck im talking about.

[Shizzzzle]

Here you say that a $25 orbital polisher will remove sanding marks



And here you say that you will need a rotarty buffer with a wool pad and an abrasive compound to remove sanding marks? Well, which is it? Random orbital polisher from Wal-Mart for $25 or a $250 rotary buffer with a wool pad?


And your telling me that you can take a car in, wet sand the entire car, buff it out to a pristine finish, wax, clean the interior and have it back to your customer in 2-3 hours, then you must be a freaking amazing man! Please let me know the next time you have a car come in because I want to see this!


again here's my point if you knew any goddamn thing.

3000 scratches are not that heavy of scratchs, a fucking foam pad can take out fucking 3000 scratches

now for 1000/1200/1500/2000 scratches, yeah you'll gonna need a fucking wool pad and some abrasive compound to get the scratchs out!

plz, stfu! and listen .. u might actually learn something and make your job alot easier ;)

[austin]

YOU SIR ARE A MORON.....GO LEARN HOW TO WORK ON PAINT BEFORE YOU GO ON A RANT ABOUT HOW IGNORANT YOU REALLY ARE..... and you dont just take sandpaper to clearcoat, my buddy and i have a paint and body shop, as a hobby. you wetsand clearcoat with anything between 1200-2000, and then buff.




again here's my point if you knew any goddamn thing.

3000 scratches are not that heavy of scratchs, a fucking foam pad can take out fucking 3000 scratches

now for 1000/1200/1500/2000 scratches, yeah you'll gonna need a fucking wool pad and some abrasive compound to get the scratchs out!

plz, stfu! and listen .. u might actually learn something and make your job alot easier ;)

[austin]

Oh and BTW, it is not gonna be the foam pad that removes the scratches........it would be the polishing/finishing compound.........the buffer just makes it easier on you because way back when they used to do this shit by hand.

you go ahead and start scratching the shit out of your clearcoat, then user a foam pad , and after you are done i will spray a few more coats on after you f**k it upagain here's my point if you knew any goddamn thing.

3000 scratches are not that heavy of scratchs, a fucking foam pad can take out fucking 3000 scratches

now for 1000/1200/1500/2000 scratches, yeah you'll gonna need a fucking wool pad and some abrasive compound to get the scratchs out!

plz, stfu! and listen .. u might actually learn something and make your job alot easier ;)

[Shizzzzle]

YOU SIR ARE A MORON.....GO LEARN HOW TO WORK ON PAINT BEFORE YOU GO ON A RANT ABOUT HOW IGNORANT YOU REALLY ARE..... and you dont just take sandpaper to clearcoat, my buddy and i have a paint and body shop, as a hobby. you wetsand clearcoat with anything between 1200-2000, and then buff.

is that not what ive been saying this entire thread dipshit? maybe you should go back and read my fucking postings.

and no dipshit i didnt mean just use a mother fucking foam pad!

I was saying if you "JUST" 3000 the goddamn car to get swirls out, it doesnt make deep fucking scrathes like 1200 - 2000 does..

but whatever, everyone is fucking everything i say up, cause obvisouly nobody can read!

[Nick Chapman]

Shizzzzle,

Why don't you try and calm down a little and explain what your saying. So far your responses have been totally idiotic, and you are only making yourself look like a total moron.

Maybe you do know what your doing when it comes to paint and body work, but you aren't showing it in here. I'm always up to learn something new from someone that knows more than me, and if you can get 3000 wet sanding out with a $25 orbital polisher and can wet sand and finsh a car in 2-3 hours, then you must be the king of paint and body! And I'd love to hear and see how you do this.

I don't know why you've taken such an aggressive route with me, but ever since your first post to me, you have been nothing but negative and totally aggressive. I am trying to run a business here, and you are trying your best to ruin it. Have you seen my work? No! Have we ever met? No! Do you know absolutely anything about me? No! STOP TRYING TO RUIN MY BUSINESS!!!


Why in the world does it matter at all to you if I spend 15 hours on a car? I've asked that question several times in several posts, and you have yet to respond. Why does it matter to you? I'm obviously not working on your car, and I'm not working for you. Let it go dude! Just let it go! If I want to take my time and not rush things, then thats my choice and my customers do not mind at all. It's my wasted time.

So, I'm kindly asking you to back off, and stay off my post unless you have something POSITIVE to contribute! These people are asking for advice, and you are being a dick! Just chill out and try to give people good, positive advice.

[Skidmark]

newb? yeah thats why ive been in the business for alot longer then nick has because i dont know what the fuck im talking about.


What's your business name?

[PooterWS6]

What's your business name?
Like hell have the balls to post it up after he was trying to ruin someone elses name :rolleyes:

We should all bow down to his infinite wisdom of paint and body, truely a master, shit, just because he says so, thats reason enough for me....















:rolleyes:


Nick, good post, I dont know you personally, but at least youre keeping in professional, unlike this shizzzle dillhole.

[Txstang1]

Lmao!!!!!!!!

[Nick Chapman]

again here's my point if you knew any goddamn thing.

3000 scratches are not that heavy of scratchs, a fucking foam pad can take out fucking 3000 scratches

now for 1000/1200/1500/2000 scratches, yeah you'll gonna need a fucking wool pad and some abrasive compound to get the scratchs out!

plz, stfu! and listen .. u might actually learn something and make your job alot easier ;)



Dude, please read and understand my post before you comment. No where in there does it say anything about not being able to remove sanding marks with a foam pad. I use foam pad religously! I love what they do! What it does say is you have made a statement that a $25 random orbital polisher can remove 3000 grit sanding marks(and that I would love to see you preform this). Then you say that it will take a rotary buffer with a wool pad to remove the same 3000 grit sanding marks. I asked you which one is it? A random orbital polisher or a rotary buffer with a wool pad?

You've made countless statements, and we've all asked for you to clarify a little more, and you don't. Just chill out a little and answer the questions. I for one would love to know how you remove 3000 grit sanding marks with a random orbital polisher. Heck, that would've saved me a few bucks on my rotary that I obviously don't need if I use your methods.
You've also made a statement that you can wet sand an entire car, buff it out to perfection, and clean the interior in 2-3 hours. This seems pretty imposible to me, but I want to see you do this. I am asking you to show me, teach me! Again, you have no comment.

You've made several responses that you've been in this business longer than I have, so how long have you been doing this? I know I've got 15 years in the detailing and paint polishing, what about you? And please give us the name of your shop. That may help to show that you know what your talking about. Give yourself some crediblity.

These(among others) are questions that we've all asked and you have refused to answer. The only thing that you've done is to come on here and attack people like you are the God of paint polishing, buffing, detailing and that everyone is beneath you.


If you would like, please PM me or call me with the name and address of your shop. I would love to sit down with you and have you show me your methods. If for nothing else, just a few hours. I'm not asking you to give up any secrets. Just from one proffesional to another. I would love to know how to do the things that you come on here and say that you can do.

Thanks!
Nick
214-205-1287

[NeedleSharp]

Dude, please read and understand my post before you comment. No where in there does it say anything about not being able to remove sanding marks with a foam pad. I use foam pad religously! I love what they do! What it does say is you have made a statement that a $25 random orbital polisher can remove 3000 grit sanding marks(and that I would love to see you preform this). Then you say that it will take a rotary buffer with a wool pad to remove the same 3000 grit sanding marks. I asked you which one is it? A random orbital polisher or a rotary buffer with a wool pad?

You've made countless statements, and we've all asked for you to clarify a little more, and you don't. Just chill out a little and answer the questions. I for one would love to know how you remove 3000 grit sanding marks with a random orbital polisher. Heck, that would've saved me a few bucks on my rotary that I obviously don't need if I use your methods.
You've also made a statement that you can wet sand an entire car, buff it out to perfection, and clean the interior in 2-3 hours. This seems pretty imposible to me, but I want to see you do this. I am asking you to show me, teach me! Again, you have no comment.

You've made several responses that you've been in this business longer than I have, so how long have you been doing this? I know I've got 15 years in the detailing and paint polishing, what about you? And please give us the name of your shop. That may help to show that you know what your talking about. Give yourself some crediblity.

These(among others) are questions that we've all asked and you have refused to answer. The only thing that you've done is to come on here and attack people like you are the God of paint polishing, buffing, detailing and that everyone is beneath you.


If you would like, please PM me or call me with the name and address of your shop. I would love to sit down with you and have you show me your methods. If for nothing else, just a few hours. I'm not asking you to give up any secrets. Just from one proffesional to another. I would love to know how to do the things that you come on here and say that you can do.

Thanks!
Nick
214-205-1287

nicely put

[Jester]

Very classy, Nick.

[jakesford]

Very classy, Nick.

just the fact that Nick has been the only one to show the quality of the work on here speaks for its self... And if i were a customer I would be much happier if there were 15hrs spent on my car over 3...

Keep up the good work. :cool:

[347Mike]

Shizzle just has sand in his pussy and gets irritated if he sits for to long.

Your work speaks for itself nick. Don't listen to this douche nor waste your time replying to him. :rolleyes:

[LT12NV-420]

LOL @ you guys...I'm guessing some of you guys are pretty new to paint correction..I've done WAYYYYYYYYYY more buffing/paint correction than anyone on this site...You guys must be stuck in the 1980's with your wool pads!


Wool pads are obsolete and should generally never be used anymore, including very old paint(including single stage)...3M's Perfect-it white waffle foam cutting pad perfect supercedes their wool pad(other brands make an equivelent heavier cut foam)..It will safely cut 1000 grit scratches when coupled with a good cutting compound like 3M's perfect-it 3000 rubbing compund...Unlike the wool, the white foam cuts super fast, but leaves almost no swirl to clean up after use...This speeds up the later steps polishing/glazing dramatically..
After the inital cutting passes with the white foam there are numerous pad/compound options for polishing/glazing..Too numerous to mention here...3M makes a good black foam polishing pad(similair to thier white) that is medium/light cut, and is suitable for either polishing or glazing.. For darker colors, A "finishing" pad should be used with a rotory buffer or DA polisher to cut/fill in any final very light swirls that may show in very bright sunlight..Use product that contains silicone with it like auto magic's "awesome gloss" or "BC-2"...Good lighting is important in this step..

I almost never have to resort using any sandpaper to remove any "swirls", or even very deep scratches on a later model car with a factory finish...I did a wetsand and buff on a black 06 Z06 recently(to remove some factory peel and all around slick-out) and only used 2000 grit, and it turned out pretty nice and didnt burn through anywhere...I've only done it on many other cars with original paint with success...Since I work on mostly on classic cars, the paint finish can't have any peel, or any other imperfection, so then I use 1000(by hand or DA), which is the roughest recomended for safe buffing, then follwoed by 2000 grit, then buff, etc...

[Nick Chapman]

LOL @ you guys...I'm guessing some of you guys are pretty new to paint correction..I've done WAYYYYYYYYYY more buffing/paint correction than anyone on this site...You guys must be stuck in the 1980's with your wool pads!




Great! Another one!

Never have I said that wool pads are great, or anything even close to that. Wool pads have their place, but nowadays they are few and far between. Like I said earlier, I use foam pads religously!! I think I may have used wool, maybe 3 times in the past 5-6 years. Shizzzle is the one that keeps bringing up wool, and I've only been asking him to clarify his statements.


You know guys, all I am trying to do here is advertise my business. And here recently, I've done nothing but defend myself. This is getting old!

[Jester]

Great! Another one!

Never have I said that wool pads are great, or anything even close to that. Wool pads have their place, but nowadays they are few and far between. Like I said earlier, I use foam pads religously!! I think I may have used wool, maybe 3 times in the past 5-6 years. Shizzzle is the one that keeps bringing up wool, and I've only been asking him to clarify his statements.


You know guys, all I am trying to do here is advertise my business. And here recently, I've done nothing but defend myself. This is getting old!
You don' have to defend shit. Your work looks great and you have happy customers. End of story.

[Mach1Nut]

For anyone that wants a great looking paint finish with minimal effort, do yourself a favor and purchase a Porter Cable DA random orbit polisher. It is nearly impossible to damage your clearcoat with this machine and coupled with the correct Foam Pads / Product will provide spectacular results. I am guessing that this is the same method used by n737nc.

I bought my black Mach1 brand new from the dealer I used to work at out in California 6 months after it sat on the lot getting washed every single day by the lot porters. Needless to say the paint finish was already swirled up beyond belief. I then in a moment of thoughtlessness took the car through a drive through car wash and made it even worse. Then I tried to use off the shelf products at the local parts store and got zero results. So I started searching online and found that most people recommended using the Porter cable with the foam pads to remove swirls.

I personally use Poorboy's world products and am extremely impressed with the results.

http://168.144.26.129/Pictures/dsc02727.jpg


Not the best close up pictures but you get the idea.

Start off by washing the car and then claybar the entire surface

Poorboy's SSR 2.5 with an orange cutting foam pad will remove just about any deep swirl mark on the car. Then you can follow that up with SSR 2.5 on a finishing pad to clean it up. Then use a high quality polish (I use their blue polish) and finish it up with their EX to seal it. Then top it off with the Natty's Blue paste wax applied by hand and you'll have a beautiful finish!

The most important thing to maintaining your finish is to be careful when washing the vehicle inbetween detailing. Use a high quality washing mitt and keep two seperate buckets to wash the vehicle. 1 with the soap and the other to rinse the mitt out before resoaking it in the soap. Drying off the vehicle it is important to use a clean microfiber waffle weave drying towel.

Here's Poorboys website

PoorBoys (http://www.poorboysworld.com)

The model Porter Cable I bought is the 7424 but you can usually find package deals that are cheaper if you buy the polisher / pad kit together. Usually about $150.00 will get you a real nice set-up with all the foam pads you'd need. Then about $100.00 worth of product should last you at least 5-10 full details.

Well worth it if you want to maintain your paint finish and keep it looking sharp!

Adam

[8mpg]

fuck all the clowns on here nick. Dont sweat it, just move on. Help people when you can, you cant win them all. As long as you keep up quality work, people will call you.

[Nick Chapman]

You don' have to defend shit. Your work looks great and you have happy customers. End of story.


fuck all the clowns on here nick. Dont sweat it, just move on. Help people when you can, you cant win them all. As long as you keep up quality work, people will call you.



Thanks guys. It just gets frustrating having people nit pick me about my work or about how I do things. End result is what counts, happy customer with a beautiful car!

[Nick Chapman]

For anyone that wants a great looking paint finish with minimal effort, do yourself a favor and purchase a Porter Cable DA random orbit polisher. It is nearly impossible to damage your clearcoat with this machine and coupled with the correct Foam Pads / Product will provide spectacular results. I am guessing that this is the same method used by n737nc.

I bought my black Mach1 brand new from the dealer I used to work at out in California 6 months after it sat on the lot getting washed every single day by the lot porters. Needless to say the paint finish was already swirled up beyond belief. I then in a moment of thoughtlessness took the car through a drive through car wash and made it even worse. Then I tried to use off the shelf products at the local parts store and got zero results. So I started searching online and found that most people recommended using the Porter cable with the foam pads to remove swirls.

I personally use Poorboy's world products and am extremely impressed with the results.

http://168.144.26.129/Pictures/dsc02727.jpg


Not the best close up pictures but you get the idea.

Start off by washing the car and then claybar the entire surface

Poorboy's SSR 2.5 with an orange cutting foam pad will remove just about any deep swirl mark on the car. Then you can follow that up with SSR 2.5 on a finishing pad to clean it up. Then use a high quality polish (I use their blue polish) and finish it up with their EX to seal it. Then top it off with the Natty's Blue paste wax applied by hand and you'll have a beautiful finish!

The most important thing to maintaining your finish is to be careful when washing the vehicle inbetween detailing. Use a high quality washing mitt and keep two seperate buckets to wash the vehicle. 1 with the soap and the other to rinse the mitt out before resoaking it in the soap. Drying off the vehicle it is important to use a clean microfiber waffle weave drying towel.

Here's Poorboys website

PoorBoys (http://www.poorboysworld.com)

The model Porter Cable I bought is the 7424 but you can usually find package deals that are cheaper if you buy the polisher / pad kit together. Usually about $150.00 will get you a real nice set-up with all the foam pads you'd need. Then about $100.00 worth of product should last you at least 5-10 full details.

Well worth it if you want to maintain your paint finish and keep it looking sharp!

Adam


Adam,

Yes, I have one of these in my bag at all times. These Poter Cable polishers are worth their weight in gold around my house. I have 1 of these along with my Makita rotary.
On a side note, not trying to push Meguiar's on anyone. But, Meguiars sell this exact same model, only rebadged with the Meguiars logo on it. Porter Cable has a 1 year warranty(I think), but if you buy the Meguiar's rebadged unit, it has a lifetime warranty on it. Just food for thought if anyone is thinking about buying one.


Also, if anyone is scared to use one, don't be. These are very friendly machines. Not as aggressive as a rotary buffer. It takes a little longer to get the results that a rotary can give you, but it will come.
Also, if anyone buys one of these, and gets their products, I will be more than happy to come out and help you get through the learning process. Maybe if enough people are interested, we can get a small group? Have a class.......with beer :D



Nick

[96blackstang]

On my black V-6 we used a multi step set of maguires compounds with a buffing wheel and our dewalt drill after we used the mother clay bar. I did spend around 15 hours on the car (Nervous energy a weekend before surgery) and it turned out awesome...just thought I would throw that in

But of course we just took our time cause we were enjoying beer also...

[Jester]

Maybe if enough people are interested, we can get a small group? Have a class.......with beer :D



Nick
You can come over and polish my knob and I will buy the beer. :D

[hellas85stang]

lol i have used buffers a long time,i have done paint n body work along time..and ill NEVER tell a guy to wet sand his car to get a polished shine..a lil orbit sander needs just a lil wax and polish..yes ya can burn a paint job with it,if you are a dumbass and hold it in one spot while you talk ..pay attn,never stay in one place longer then a sec go back over it in a few sec or mins,and will be ok..And i do think personal attack ona person is bad anyway,usually its from awannabe,or a young wanna be..best thing on here when bad adv is offered and i see it alot on here.,is offer the right advice and hope the person reading will take it..BUT why cant guys n gals on here read a book,watch a video of it..NO they would rather come on here and get a chance of gettin bad adv over makin a effort and read and learn..I have seen good n bad adv offered on here..im glad i have had the education and know how to know the diff..and if i dont ill ask a pro...

[NeedleSharp]

You can come over and polish my knob and I will buy the beer. :D
LOL!!

lol i have used buffers a long time,i have done paint n body work along time..and ill NEVER tell a guy to wet sand his car to get a polished shine..a lil orbit sander needs just a lil wax and polish..yes ya can burn a paint job with it,if you are a dumbass and hold it in one spot while you talk ..pay attn,never stay in one place longer then a sec go back over it in a few sec or mins,and will be ok..And i do think personal attack ona person is bad anyway,usually its from awannabe,or a young wanna be..best thing on here when bad adv is offered and i see it alot on here.,is offer the right advice and hope the person reading will take it..BUT why cant guys n gals on here read a book,watch a video of it..NO they would rather come on here and get a chance of gettin bad adv over makin a effort and read and learn..I have seen good n bad adv offered on here..im glad i have had the education and know how to know the diff..and if i dont ill ask a pro...
im too lazy to read a book :p but seriously, i try to go a google search and normally spend at least 10 minutes on looking for the solution before i bring it up on a thread. i know you can get some bad advice on here, but since this is a car site, the majority of the information on here is pretty accurate. when it comes to supplements on working out, i'll trust a professional but with the paint job on my truck... if someone's using it on thier mustang, its good enough for my f150

[LT12NV-420]

What it does say is you have made a statement that a $25 random orbital polisher can remove 3000 grit sanding marks(and that I would love to see you preform this).

I for one would love to know how you remove 3000 grit sanding marks with a random orbital polisher. Heck, that would've saved me a few bucks on my rotary that I obviously don't need if I use your methods.



Yes, you CAN use a RO or DA polisher to rub out down to at least 1500-2k sanding scratches..It's surely not the most efficient way, and requires (4-5 passes vs. 1 for rotary) But I've done it MANY times in a crunch.....Please come to my shop and I will have no problem demonstrating this....I'm located in Mckinney, TX.....

[LT12NV-420]

Great! Another one!

Never have I said that wool pads are great, or anything even close to that. Wool pads have their place, but nowadays they are few and far between. Like I said earlier, I use foam pads religously!! I think I may have used wool, maybe 3 times in the past 5-6 years. Shizzzle is the one that keeps bringing up wool, and I've only been asking him to clarify his statements.


You know guys, all I am trying to do here is advertise my business. And here recently, I've done nothing but defend myself. This is getting old!

I don't care if you use a wool pad or not, I just figured I'd save you some time and bring up to date with modern buffing/polshing methods.....I can see that didn't go over so well..

[LT12NV-420]

For anyone that wants a great looking paint finish with minimal effort, do yourself a favor and purchase a Porter Cable DA random orbit polisher. It is nearly impossible to damage your clearcoat with this machine and coupled with the correct Foam Pads / Product will provide spectacular results. I am guessing that this is the same method used by n737nc.

I bought my black Mach1 brand new from the dealer I used to work at out in California 6 months after it sat on the lot getting washed every single day by the lot porters. Needless to say the paint finish was already swirled up beyond belief. I then in a moment of thoughtlessness took the car through a drive through car wash and made it even worse. Then I tried to use off the shelf products at the local parts store and got zero results. So I started searching online and found that most people recommended using the Porter cable with the foam pads to remove swirls.

I personally use Poorboy's world products and am extremely impressed with the results.


Not the best close up pictures but you get the idea.

Start off by washing the car and then claybar the entire surface

Poorboy's SSR 2.5 with an orange cutting foam pad will remove just about any deep swirl mark on the car. Then you can follow that up with SSR 2.5 on a finishing pad to clean it up. Then use a high quality polish (I use their blue polish) and finish it up with their EX to seal it. Then top it off with the Natty's Blue paste wax applied by hand and you'll have a beautiful finish!

The most important thing to maintaining your finish is to be careful when washing the vehicle inbetween detailing. Use a high quality washing mitt and keep two seperate buckets to wash the vehicle. 1 with the soap and the other to rinse the mitt out before resoaking it in the soap. Drying off the vehicle it is important to use a clean microfiber waffle weave drying towel.

Here's Poorboys website

PoorBoys (http://www.poorboysworld.com)

The model Porter Cable I bought is the 7424 but you can usually find package deals that are cheaper if you buy the polisher / pad kit together. Usually about $150.00 will get you a real nice set-up with all the foam pads you'd need. Then about $100.00 worth of product should last you at least 5-10 full details.

Well worth it if you want to maintain your paint finish and keep it looking sharp!

Adam

Excellent advice! when using the correct pads/compounds, The P/C 7424 will do 95% or more a rotary will do..

[NeedleSharp]

I don't care if you use a wool pad or not, I just figured I'd save you some time and bring up to date with modern buffing/polshing methods.....I can see that didn't go over so well..

lol dude just let it go... nicks not gon change his ways cuz it works and pl are happy... everyone chill out and go to you happy place :D

[NeedleSharp]

Excellent advice! when using the correct pads/compounds, The P/C 7424 will do 95% or more a rotary will do..
how is the 7424 any different from a normal RO?? they all spin? lol

[LT12NV-420]

lol dude just let it go... nicks not gon change his ways cuz it works and pl are happy... everyone chill out and go to you happy place :D

I was actually referring to Shizzzzle and all of his contrdictory statements in my original post...

[LT12NV-420]

how is the 7424 any different from a normal RO?? they all spin? lol

For all intents and purposes, they are the same...The 7424 offers much better construction and pads options then a $20 one metioned in the begining of this thread..

(same)
DA = Dual action polisher
RO =Random orbital

Rotary = spins one direction only, completely diferent and will build up much more heat then then 2 types mentioned above..

[Nick Chapman]

Why can't we all just get along? Yes, foam pads are the way to go, whether you use it with a rotary or a DA. Wool does have it's place, but it's few and far between anymore. Foam will do a much better job most of the time.

A DA can remove light scratches, and yes even sanding marks with enough passes. That wasn't the tool in question. He said he could get sanding marks out with a $25 wal mart single speed polisher, not the Porter Cable DA. And he said he could wet sand an entire car, buff(with this $25 tool) and clean the interior in 2-3 hours. Which is why I said it couldn't be done. Heck, even with a rotary thats gonna be tough to do(impossible for myself).

We're talking about 3 different tools here, and I think people are getting confused. A $25 polisher, Porter Cable DA and a rotary buffer. Just to clarify my position, the DA(Porter Cable) and the rotary are in my tool bag, along with a wide assortment of FOAM pads(and 1 lonely wool pad just incase).

[Nick Chapman]

For all intents and purposes, they are the same...The 7424 offers much better construction and pads options then a $20 one metioned in the begining of this thread..


Lets not forget one major important difference in the two. The DA has an adjustable speed setting, while the original one pointed out in this thread has only an on/off swich(single speed). I think the speed setting plays an important role in removing defects in the clear coat.