How to free sticky lifters, valves, etc... - DFWstangs Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-03-2003, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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How to free sticky lifters, valves, etc...

I need some help, as some of you might know my car makes a pinging sound (as many 94-95s do) but I don't know if pinging is the right word for it though. It sounds pretty much like someone's shaking a spray paint can under my hood when I accelerate in 3-5 gear(faster and louder as rpms increase) or at least that's when I hear it over my tree killing exhaust .

I have had it at 8* with 93 octane and still get the noise and my EGR is good so I'm pretty sure it's not causing detonation. I've sprayed nitrous thru her so I doubt it has carbon buildup that would cause (pre)detonation and I'm using colder plugs (Autolite 24s) which would eliminate the plugs being at fault and causing (pre)detonation.

Anyway, before I start digging into the motor I want to see if there is something I can do just incase I have a valve, lifter, etc... sticking. Some people have mentioned using thicker oil and freeing sticky lifters using products that have a certain chemical in them. What I need are some specifics like what exact weight/grade of oil is best and what exact product to use to try to free whatever might be sticking (and where to get it if not at an auto stores). I would really appreciate your help and it would save me a lot of time and money not having to dig into the motor. Thanks for any help you have for me...............

Last edited by Gigabyte; 02-03-2003 at 10:52 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 07:43 AM
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I would first check your rockers to make sure they are tightened properly. For the old carburated cars they would pour automatic transmission fliud down the intake while reving the car. It would smoke all the mosquito's out, but it cleans the valves and gets them to stop sticking. Don't know how to go about this on a fuel injection car though. Good luck.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 10:49 AM
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Sounds like pinging to me. My pinging went way down after switching to a CAI. CAIs are notorious for richening up the fuel mixture. I don't know if it was just harder to ignite the charge or if the extra fuel had a cooling effect on whatever is getting too hot in the chamber and causing it to pre-ignite. Whatever it was, it eliminated it except in the hottest of weather. Normal timing was 12, summer timing was 10. What processor does your car have. The high altitude calibrated processors are supposed to have more problems.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 11:20 AM
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how hot is your car running. Mine pinged preaty bad when I got it, but I did a tune up, and run 93, and its fine. If it gets hot it will ping, but that is it. Doesnt happen very much, and I am running 16 deg of timing.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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BBRANJEN: (or anyone that would know) I am not a mechanic by any means but I am mechanically inclined IMO so how would I go about checking the rockers. I mean I know how to get to them and all but how do I know when tightening is tight "enough". Do I just tighen them nice and firm without stripping or is there an exactness to it and I need a torque wrench or something to do it corrrectly? If it just a matter of taking a ratchet to them then it's not a problem.

bard: I have no idea what processor I have. Is it listed on the door sticker? What code should I be looking for? I did live in New Mexico (I was in the military) when I first got the car (bought in Fort Worth) and the elevation was 3600ft and it still did it (or is 3.6K really not that high for the high altitude computers?).

DarkPony: It always sits right between the "N" and the "O". I've changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, checked timing (basic tune up). Other things that have been changed include a 190lph fuel pump to make sure I'm getting fuel at the top end and stock replacement MAF to make sure that wasn't leaning things out.

I really appreciate all the help. I'll wait for someone to reply about tightening the rockers so for now that's probably my next step.

Last edited by Gigabyte; 02-04-2003 at 12:36 PM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 01:40 PM
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Rocker tightning:

Kinda hard to fully explain but here goes. I am assuming they are hydraulic lifters...........Rotate the engine so that both valves are in the closed position.....Loosen the rockers till you have enough slack to slide the pushrod up ward and off the lifter with out pulling it to far......about 1/16" of slop as your lifting the push rod up and down. (hearing the push rod tink on the lifter and rocker with each up and down motion) Then slowly start tightening the rocker while doing the up and down motion till the push rod has no slack. At the immediate moment that you can no longer lift the push rod........Put a wrench on the rocker nut and turn it 1/2 a more. Then tighten the jam nut to secure. Keep wrench on main nut while using the allen wrench to tighten jam nut so the outer will not turn any more. Repeat process for the rest.

I would actually check the rockers and pull up and down on each one to see if one is noticably loose before doing the above.

Last edited by SSMAN; 02-04-2003 at 01:43 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 03:33 PM
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Run an EEC test before you do anything. And check your fuel pressure. If it sounds like a someone shaking a spray paint can then it is probably clatter. A lifter tick or rocker tick is rare in a Ford and is a sign of very very poor maintenance. Further, the knock would be a constant tick tick tick, not just a tick under acceleration. If I were to bet money on it, I think you either have a fuel delivery problem or a mis-calibrated air meter.

The ford valvetrains are non adjustable, unless you have converted yours to heads that are.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2003, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I ended up going to the Ford dealership and getting a mechanic to take a ride with me. He said it's definitely NOT detonation and that it's either a bent pushrod, valve stem or something else having to do with the valvetrain ("metal on metal sound" he said)so I guess I will be taking my first venture into the motor soon. Maybe I'll just get some used E7's with the valve train intact and some pushrods and be done with it since I don't have much money, I don't know..... It sucks but the motor does have 142,000 miles on it anyway so I guess it's about time... Anybody got some E7s holding a door open somewhere that they don't need ?

Last edited by Gigabyte; 02-05-2003 at 04:43 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2003, 06:00 PM
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hit it with a hammer
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2003, 09:31 PM
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Hey man, long time no see. Got the heads and a place to stick them on. Well, at least you finally have an answer. Let me know.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2003, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Dude, what's up. I see from the parts section you guys are tearing into that 351 I was going to come over last weekend but I had 3 birthdays to attend (literally). How you get 2 sisters with birthdays 1 day apart I don't know. Anyway, wanna help me start digging, my wife has Guard Duty this weekend(?) I was going to ask you about those heads you have, maybe we can work something out................... Email me if you're going to be at the shop or something.........
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