This is more confusing than I had thought!
bobs 94 formula:
You can either run a retrofit solid roller with solid roller retrofit lifters, or you can run a retrofit hyd roller with retrofit hyd roller lifters.
What do you mean by 'retrofit?' I've never heard of retrofit lifters or retrofit cams.
You can also get the lifter spyder from a 302 so you can use stock type hyd roller lifters, but you would need a small base circle cam to do this. You would need to drill and tap 2 holes in the lifter valley to hold the spyder in for this way also.
What is a small base circle cam?
I have all the stock stuff from my 302, so I'd like to use as much of that as possible.
I thought that you can't use any roller cam in a non roller block because there is nothing to keep the lifters from rotating in the lifter bores, and there isn't a way to install lifter retainers (if that's what they're called... the things that go on the block between each set of lifters). I don't want to be limited in cam profile selection because of the block I use.
You could run a old school solid flat tappet.
That's the kind where the lifters are basically just a solid cylinder right? I didn't want one of those because I'd have limited cam choices compared to what I could run with roller lifters.
well, I would probably go with a hydraulic flat tappet for cost reasons, BUT if you absolutely want a roller, I would go solid... you don't need to do any modifications to the block, and the money you save by not having to do the block mods will go towards your cam/lifters... there are plenty of street grinds that don't require exotic valvesprings...
besides, a solid cam is MUCH easier to set up at the rockers... setting lash takes two seconds, setting pre-load on a hydraulic is fucking annoying...
Is a hydraulic flat tappet lifter like a hydraulic roller without the roller? Would I run into the same cam limitation problems as with a solid flat tappet?
How could I run a solid roller cam with no modifications to a non-roller block? I remember doing having to set up the hydraulic lifters, and it was a pain, but I don't want to have to be setting lash all the time. I would like the extra power, and may go that way just for that reason, but right now I'm just trying to figure out the block/cam situation.
Solid roller will blow the piss out of just about any other cam type.
Reliable springs for a solid roller setup of any significant lift are going to cost about $300 for the springs, retainers and keepers. I'm talking about some pacaloy springs here boys, not some junk.
Cam itself $269 or so, just like a hydraulic cam
The lifters...I like the Crower lifters, so does KC. They are $330 a set, no mods necessary to the block.
So I'd just buy these lifters and I could go solid roller in a non-roller block with no mods?
I can convert a vintage windsor block to use the OEM style 5.0 hydrualic roller lifter for about $2 as long as you have a spider plate from your 5.0. These lifters cost about $100 new and will require a reduced base circle cam...about $269 for the cam and a $150 for the spring package.
I've got the spider plate, lifters, retainers, etc, from my 302. Would I have to replace any of that? What is a reduced base circle cam?
You can use the "drop in" style hydraulic roller lifter, these are about $269 or $300 a set depending on which brand. Requires no modifications to the block. Cam costs about the same $269, springs are going to run the same $150.
If I can use any of the parts I've already got, that would be the best for my situation right now. I just need to know what I'd need to replace and how to make it work, and I'd like to avoid having limited cam choices.
So pick your poison...
Reduced base circle hydraulic roller for about $520
"Drop in" hydraulic roller for about $680
Solid roller for about $900
What to do....