One thing that most shops do wrong on the boring process is bore them to size rather than leaving some stock in there for the hone to remove so that the honed cylinder has clean base metal when finished.
For instance, if my finished bore needs to be ready to run at .030 over, then I bore it .026 and hone the other .004 out of it because the boring bar makes a hell of a mess of the cylinder... torn/fragmented metal. (When you look at a cylinder under 40X magnification after a boring bar has had its fun with it, you'd see what I mean.) Under magnification, the cylinder wall surface looks like a Grenade hit it. Simply honing a couple of strokes to put some cross hatch in the bore won't clean all that out and the hone will be very shallow as well thus lending itself to very poor oil retention and hence a very short lived ring with poor ring seal/oil control.
I'm only a Cam designer and full competition race engine builder. I don't know anything.