Typical cost for 5.0 shortblock rebuild? - DFWstangs Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Typical cost for 5.0 shortblock rebuild?

Just wondering what a typical rebuild costs (bearings, rings, hone, deck, etc). This is on my '92 LX that has 77k miles.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 02:02 PM
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My 86 with 186k barely had a lip on the cylinder bore. only reason I took it apart was cause the damn fuel rail cracked and caught fire.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 02:11 PM
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city motors sells them for EDIT: $440 and then the $100 core

And thats for a short assembly

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ldecharmoy View Post
city motors sells them for $600 w/ $100 core
ugh

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the short story. Engine was stock with Procharger. Removed Procharger to add Hose Wizard R134 A/C kit (A/C went out). Decided to upgrade some things so I picked up some used GT40 heads, Crane/Cobra 1.7 rockers, and Explorer Intake. Heads went to the machine shop for full rebuild, valve job, new Felpro valve seals, and upgraded TFS vavlesprings.

I swapped everything and the car had coolant leaking into the crankcase and car would overheat. I swapped intake gaskets and leaking continued. Tried a brand new GT40 lower intake and leaking continued. I started the tear down today and i'm assuming it's headgasket related (haven't got the heads off yet).

My concern is that during all this a lot of coolant/water has gone through the crankcase. I'm worried about bearings. Shortblock may be fine but just wanted to see what costs would be if I pull the shortblock for a rebuild. I'd prefer to rebuild the stock shortblock rather than exchange it as a core for a new shortblock.

Regardless, since i'm having to take the heads off again, i'm most likely going to consider adding a cam from FTI, AFM, or ShaunT.

So what's the typical cost of a rebuild?

Marcus

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 04:06 PM
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I saw a decent deal on a 347 stroker kit, with block in the classifieds earlier. It's probably no more than you would spend rebuilding a stock 5 liter.

That's exactly what a friend of mine did. He found a good NEW 347 rotating assembly with a shortblock on the classifieds here and bought it for what he was looking at to rebuild his old flat tappet wore out 306.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 351Coupe View Post
I saw a decent deal on a 347 stroker kit, with block in the classifieds earlier. It's probably no more than you would spend rebuilding a stock 5 liter.

That's exactly what a friend of mine did. He found a good NEW 347 rotating assembly with a shortblock on the classifieds here and bought it for what he was looking at to rebuild his old flat tappet wore out 306.
That stuff is sold. I'm really looking to keep costs down. LRS has stock shortblocks for $699. City Motors is an option. I'd rather have my stock shortblock rebuilt if the cost is similar those two options.

Marcus

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 05:45 PM
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The LRS shortblocks for that price come with hyper pistons. The forged setups that come stock in 87 thru early 92's are 1499.00. Call Whittens Automotive Machine Shop in lewisville if you need a good rebuild at a good price. But... If the bores of cylinders have little to no wear than I'd just ball hone it, replace the bearings/rings and run it. Your crank probably wont need to be turned. They can even do that type of rebuild for you if you arent confident enough in pulling/reinstalling the crank rods etc etc... When I was looking to have something similar done I think they quoted me around 400.00 for turning my crank/ball hone/cam bearings freeze plugs and blasting the block to remove grime then reassemble. I think they get somewhere around $200-$250 for reassemble.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 06:02 PM
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I would just yank the motor out, take a quick look at the cylinders, pull a couple of rod/main caps off and go from there. As long as everything looks OK (and it should be fine) I'd just run it.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 08:44 PM
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I agree with jw33. When my car had 199k on it I tore down the engine and the shortblock looked fine. I went ahead and put new bearings and re-ringed it though. I tore it all down had a local machine shop clean and hone the block and replace the cam bearings for me. Then I did the reassembly. I had under $500 in it. Which includes buying a tfs cam for it.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noslow5_0 View Post
The LRS shortblocks for that price come with hyper pistons. The forged setups that come stock in 87 thru early 92's are 1499.00. Call Whittens Automotive Machine Shop in lewisville if you need a good rebuild at a good price. But... If the bores of cylinders have little to no wear than I'd just ball hone it, replace the bearings/rings and run it. Your crank probably wont need to be turned. They can even do that type of rebuild for you if you arent confident enough in pulling/reinstalling the crank rods etc etc... When I was looking to have something similar done I think they quoted me around 400.00 for turning my crank/ball hone/cam bearings freeze plugs and blasting the block to remove grime then reassemble. I think they get somewhere around $200-$250 for reassemble.
Thanks man. That's exactly the info I was looking for. I know Paul (greenbullitt) has recommened that shop in Lewisville. I'll give them a call.

Since the shortblock only has 77k I'm thinking it will just need what you mentioned. When I had the heads off the cylinder walls looked pretty good. Well see what that shop says.

Thanks again. I'll give them a call. So does anyone near Frisco have a hoist And stand I can borrow?

Marcus

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2010, 07:25 AM
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Honing is the easiest thing to say that looks are deceiving.
Do a leak down test. That's the only way you will validate how well the ring seals. Just because you might see hone in the cylinder means nothing at all.

For instance: You can hone with very light pressure and a 400 grit stone and see hone on the walls. However, if you actually check the surface finish with a profilometer, the numbers are what we call 'slick as ice'. Of course you are not going to get that scientific and you don't need to as I have already done that for hundreds of hours. LOL. Save yourself some guess work and do a leak down test.

I'm only a Cam designer and full competition race engine builder. I don't know anything.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2010, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2cammer97 View Post
Here's the short story. Engine was stock with Procharger. Removed Procharger to add Hose Wizard R134 A/C kit (A/C went out). Decided to upgrade some things so I picked up some used GT40 heads, Crane/Cobra 1.7 rockers, and Explorer Intake. Heads went to the machine shop for full rebuild, valve job, new Felpro valve seals, and upgraded TFS vavlesprings.

I swapped everything and the car had coolant leaking into the crankcase and car would overheat. I swapped intake gaskets and leaking continued. Tried a brand new GT40 lower intake and leaking continued. I started the tear down today and i'm assuming it's headgasket related (haven't got the heads off yet).

My concern is that during all this a lot of coolant/water has gone through the crankcase. I'm worried about bearings. Shortblock may be fine but just wanted to see what costs would be if I pull the shortblock for a rebuild. I'd prefer to rebuild the stock shortblock rather than exchange it as a core for a new shortblock.

Regardless, since i'm having to take the heads off again, i'm most likely going to consider adding a cam from FTI, AFM, or ShaunT.

So what's the typical cost of a rebuild?

Marcus
Just pull the motor, buy new bearings, put them in yourself, and put the engine back in.

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